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porter

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Posts posted by porter

  1. <p>I'm trying to shoot some panorama's, but can't get the sky to maintain one continuous colour/exposure amount throughout the stitch. I don't know what is wrong, I'm shooting in manual, white balance is set to daylight instead of auto, etc. </p>

    <p><a title="Untitled by Patrick E Porter, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickporter/6794644859/"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6794644859_6f2725ccca_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="414" /></a></p>

  2. <p>You seem to be heavily on the side of the manufacturer. Either way, It isn't a right that I refer to, but an expectation. If I spend a certain amount of money on a supposed quality product, I have a reasonable performance expectation. When my LX-3 PS produces cleaner looking sky's than what I'm seeing from my E-P2, I should certainly voice my concerns. In this case, it was to see if there was a resolution to the problem, not to say, 'Hey, look at this glaring fault, don't buy Olympus products'.</p>

    <p>Manufacturers need to pay attention to my expectations and those of the other consumers. We keep them in business, simple as that. My expectation is neither silly nor unrealistic.</p>

    <p>In the future, try not to turn a simple conversation about a camera's capabilities into a forum for your overinflated disgust for the consumer.</p>

  3. <p>Darin, I did no editing to my versions of the image. Came straight out of the Olympus Master 2. Otherwise, if I do edit I either save as 16 bit tiff and edit in Capture NX2. I do this with my Olympus only. For my Canon I just use Aperture.</p>

    <p>I'll try blurring the sky a bit in NX2. Kinda sucky that it doesn't come out of the camera with a nice smooth sky though.</p>

  4. <p>It isn't the processing, there is nothing done to that photo outside of the raw processing. To get those colours I just reduced saturation and upped the white balance temperature. Besides, all my photos have the same "chunky" look, some worse than that one, but I generally delete them.</p>

    <p>I always shoot manual, so it isn't about exposure being off in the meter. I find that compared to where I'm from (Eastern Canada) properly exposed images generally have a brighter sky because there simply isn't as much sun hitting the ground. Here in Egypt/Israel, the sun is so damn bright that to avoid blowing out ground details, the sky is exposed quite dark and this "chunky" look is much more apparent.</p>

    <p>ISO is 200 btw. This camera has been dropped, kicked once, and generally abused beyond normal expectations, so I don't know if that has any effect.</p>

  5. <p>I've noticed that the sky in my E-P2 images is pretty nasty looking and am really hoping there is a fix for the problem. It looks chunky, to be honest. The sky isn't posterizing, there is just lots of areas that have almost a blocky appearance. Not large blocks, little ones that almost look like noise. It is significantly worse in areas of relatively sharp transition from dark blue to lighter.</p>

    <p>Not the best example but: spacer.png You can view the larger sizes to see what I'm talking about...</p>

    <p>Is there a way to get rid of the "chunky" look of the sky?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>-Patrick</p>

  6. <p>Whilst using my brand new 5Dii, the CF card overheated big time and an error popped up on the screen saying I had to replace the card. I took it out and instantly dropped it because it was so hot. The camera had been on for about 15 minutes, used live view to focus on a subject for approximately 1 minute total, switched it off and went to shoot and thats when the error occurred.</p>

    <p>Is this normal? Kind of disheartening since I just got the camera.</p>

    <p>Thanks,</p>

  7. Inside a church in Old Jerusalem. <br> Ep2 9-18mm<br>

     

    <a href=" Church of the Holy Sepulchre title="Inside by Patrick E Porter, on Flickr"><img

    src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6410024745_1e0ae54d3f_z.jpg" width="640" height="525" alt="Inside"></a>

     

    <br> Back to Canada for the holidays, then I have to come back to Egypt/Israel until April. Definitely bringing my fisheye back with

    me. Might not be for everyone, but I find my personal fisheye images make me remember the moment better.

  8. <p>An important question to ask is: Do the 14 or 20mm lenses actually need a hood?<br /><br /><br>

    I don't have the 14mm, so I won't speak to it, but I do have the 20mm and can confidently say "no". If you say that it is for protection, I understand where you're coming from, but again the answer is "no". A good point to note is that where you're going to attach the hood is a part of the focusing portion of the lens, so if you bump the hood while attached, you run the risk of damaging those sensitive pieces.<br /><br /><br>

    If you just really want a hood, perhaps for looks, then there are numerous options available. Google search for it and you'll find something suitable at one of the various online retailers.</p>

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