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ventil

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Posts posted by ventil

  1. <p>Solar charger is what you need - in my opinion. These go quite cheap. You charge the main one (on the charger) and then charge your AA or AAA sized batteries for GPS from that.<br>

    BTW you can have the solar charger on a backpack, or under the window inside a car or... I use this for long hikes, or in Paragliding - if we are crossing bigger distances without power. GPS, vario, PMR - all charged in the evening, good to go the next day (I have the two solar chargers on my deck while paragliding, so they can charge).<br>

    But yes, I don't charge the camera batteries - It doesn't have any. :-)</p>

  2. <p>Hi everybody.<br>

    Today I have experienced the oddest thing so far.<br>

    When getting the film (It was a 120 Delta100) into the tank, I decided to peel off the sticker at the end. Normally I'm letting that on the film and develop it with it. So far, it didn't have any effect on the process.<br>

    BUT, when I held the film (in my teeth - I know, a stupid idea) and was peeling the sticker off, it lightened up, for some reason. Just like those in the dark-fluorescent-light-emitting toys, or stickers, or skeleton toys, or whatever. <br>

    It was the exact green dim light, that was produced by the process of getting the sticker off the film.<br>

    I don't know what will be the effect, I have to wait 'till I develop it, but I had to write about it.</p>

    <p>Does anybody have some comments on this? Is this even possible? (Even I saw that with my own eyes)</p>

  3. <p>yeah, keep us updated... my guess would be everything black (white) with only some marginal texture. I think that the Delta3200 has a pretty thin emulsion layer, so the light might have gone through it completely.<br>

    But according to Ansel Adams and the very basic rules of thumb:<br>

     

    <p>Normal development time, plus 100% @ 3 stops DR<br>

    Normal development time, plus 50% @ 4 stops DR<br>

    Normal development time only @ 5 stops DR<br>

    Reduce normal development time by 20% @ 6 stops DR<br>

    Reduce normal development time by 40% @ 7 stops DR</p>

    <p>But you will never get the shadows you wanted.<br>

    Don't kill me people, this works in standard film, standard developer, standard dilution situation. :-) Delta is definitely not a "standard" film, though.</p>

    </p>

  4. <p>Most Zuikos are quite easy to dissassemble (and reassemble). :-) Thankfully. Just be carefull, one can not find these zooms around each corner.<br>

    When it comes to optical quality, it is more than fine for me. It has some strange bokeh at f4, but it can be used to your advantage.<br>

    It is not very usable for me, because I like shallow DOF, which this one doesn't give me, but I had fun with it and find the construction very good. Too bad that the front element moves when focusing.<br>

    Anyways, good lens, good price, keep it. :-)</p>

  5. <p>Heh, not to forget all the stuff that can stick to your mirror and other parts when left cocked (old SLR). One would have to break down a specific camera and observe the mechanisms at work.<br>

    Only then could we assume something that neither of us did, right?<br>

    All in all I would say it is VERY camera dependant. RB67,Bronica SQ definitely cocked, Mamiya 645 (Pro), Pentacon, Flexaret, and I think Yashica 124 uncocked.<br>

    If possible, or applicable, not winding the film. From my experience it can slacken quite fast and even get you very unpleasantly blurred pictures when the film comes off even by a little bit. Especially the bigger formats, like RB67. Once a one-click slack ruined my 3 shots. :-)<br>

    But I'm not sure how the Y124 works and did not dissassemble it (don't mess with it when it's working)</p>

    <p>That's for my little bit of brain...</p>

  6. <p>Hi,<br>

    It's just a stupid questions as I don't know the answer even after some extensive search. Well, this is my last resort and if it fails, I have to live without it. Heeelp somebody...<br>

    Ive been reading all possible reviews a lot, compared everything I encountered - and decided.<br>

    I'd like to go with the Minolta Dimage 5400 II, or even the I version, mainly because of $$ reasons. The biggest problem I came across is: It's no longer available - anywhere.<br>

    Does anybody have a clue where (in Europe) one of these could be found - even second hand?<br>

    All help much appreciated...</p>

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