mccosh
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Posts posted by mccosh
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<p>Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the Tamron focus ring turn the same direction as all Nikon lenses where the Sigma goes in the opposite direction as per Canon camera's. This to me is the deal breaker for the Tamron lens.</p>
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<p>The first couple that contacted me would have first right to book. Even if they are the second couple to meet me under these conditions. <br /><br />Tell the second couple when you meet with you and show signs of wanting to book you that you have a penciled booking for the same date and will need to give them 48 hours to confirm or deny their booking and you will get back to them to let them know if the date is available or not.<br /><br />The first couple you tell that they have first option on the day but you do have another couple who are prepared to book you if the date is available so you need them to commit with their deposit within the time frame to let the other couple know.<br /><br />This is how I dealt with this situation when it happened to me.</p>
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<p>Hi Eddy,</p>
<p>I use Smugmug and love it. Check out my <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/">site</a> if you decide to go with them then here is a code that will save you some money and I will receive a $10 discount on my next renewal.</p>
<p>https://secure.smugmug.com/signup.mg?Coupon=XGphaGOQ48RyU</p>
<p>Great site, that allows you to set up multiple galleries for your weddings and even allows guests to upload their photos check out this recent wedding that I have just uploaded with multiple galleries and also a guest gallery. <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/Client-Galleries/Andrew-Sharla">Andrew & Shala's Wedding</a></p>
<p><br /> Cheers<br /> John</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>A few days later he confirms he has it. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Did you get this confirmation by email and do you still have the email. If you do send him a copy of it and say...<br>
<br />I have done the work and supplied the file as per instructions and as confirmed by your email. I sympathise with your situation but I took your confirmation that you had the file and that everything was good at your end and deleted all the files. Due to the time frame in your request for another copy of this file I am not able to supply the file or consider a refund. In future please check all files before confirming that you have the files.</p>
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<p>I currently use the Nikon AF-S 70-300 f4.5-5.6 G VR IF-ED, this is a great lens with great results outdoors in daylight. Looking at purchasing the Tamron 70 - 200 f2.8 to give me better images at reception when I need longer reach than my Tamron 28 - 75mm f2.8 allows. </p>
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<p>A Arun,<br /><br />I sympathise with your problem. I bought my D600 a year ago but as I shoot around 40k to 50K images a year the oil issue was gone in the first three months a few wet cleans was all that was required. It is now oil spot free. <br /><br />One solution maybe to speed up the process by shooting lots of images then cleaning your sensor. I agree it is not something that you should have to do, but unless you want to keep sending your camera back to Nikon for repairs might be your best option. I assure you that the problem does eventually disappear. It is an amazing camera and worth the trouble....</p>
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<p>Lightroom will allow you to filter for Aspect ratio. You could use this to view all Landscape images on one monitor and then reset Lightroom to only display portrait aspect images and switch to view all these images on the other monitor. </p>
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<p>The oil issue will go away after around 10,000 images. It is not time dependent but based on the number of shots you take. If your not using your D600 much then it will take you longer to get rid of the oil spots. They will however eventually disappear and you will have an amazing camera. They do seem to be a variance on the number of shots taking before the oil issue disappears but most reports on the net have been around 10K.<br /><br />I suggest that you learn how to give your camera a wet clean. If you want your images to be dust free then this is something that you should learn to do as oil issue aside you're always going to end up with some dust on your sensor and being able to clean this yourself is a huge advantage. It's not rocket science and very easily done. </p>
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<p>The oil problem does sort itself out after some use and all that is required is a few wet cleans. Dust problems will always be a problem as it is in any DSLR camera and is no worse on a D600 as it is in any other model.</p>
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<p>Why not just clean your sensor with a wet clean and the problem will go away once the shutter settles in. Seams replacing the shutter is just going back to square one. <br /><br /></p>
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<p>Check this video out</p>
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<p>Dave,</p>
<p>Reading your post Lightroom seems to do everything you want. Your only gripe is in the import - export section. Lightroom needs to import your files into a catalogue. This can be as small or as large as you want, your could have one large catalogue containing all your images or small ones for each folder of images. <br /><br />There are different ways of importing images and maybe there is an easier way than what you are currently using that you will find more to your liking. Would be worth spending some time to check out a few of these options before throwing Lightroom into the trash bin.<br /><br />Check this <a href="http://tv.adobe.com/watch/getting-started-with-adobe-">video</a> out to start with.</p>
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<p>Everyone is probably different. Personally I would only want to be giving the credit for the photo in all advertising that he does. That way your getting more exposure that is probably worth more than a one of payment. </p>
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<p>I am currently editing an engagement shoot and thought this image would explain what I mean about not using your flash in full power.</p>
<p>This image was shot using flash as a fill in. The shadows and highlights from the sun are not overpowered but their faces are just hightlighted a little bit as a reflector would achieve. Being a single shooter I don't have an assistant to hold a reflector and use my flash on low power instead.</p><div></div>
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<p>Bring a lot of batteries. Change the batteries around every 75 shots so you don't have to wait 30 seconds before the flash has enough juice to fire.</p>
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<p>Set you flash to half power. This will</p>
<p>A) give your shots a more natural fill flash as opposed to a washed out look.<br>
B) less harsh flash shadows behind your subject.<br>
C) Faster recharge times as your flash is only recharging half as much.<br>
D) Your batteries will last twice as long.</p>
<p>You will find that half power is all the power you really need, If I am shooting a subject that is close to a wall and I have nothing to bounce the flash off I will reduce the flash to 1/4 power to help eliminate the shadow on the wall. Especially when shooting in Portrait format when the flash is to the side of the camera.</p>
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<p>Prabhu,</p>
<p>You are going to weigh yourself down with gear. <br /><br />I shoot weddings with a D600 and a second body that stays in my bag apart from during the ceremony where I don't have time to change lenses. Otherwise I just use the one body with the D90 on standby just in case. <br /><br />I have two lenses Tamron - 28 - 75 f/2.8 and Tamron 70 - 200 f2.8 and a pair of SB600 flash units. One is usually always on my camera set to half power with a diffuser on it and will always try and bounce wherever possible. <br /><br />You have to be able to move around easily and carrying a heavy bag is not going to help. </p>
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<p>Good news. I thought that must have been the case Stan, as the eyepiece holder is pretty securely attached to the camera and would require a major force to dislodge it as others have pointed out. The fact that this has happened to two of your camera's also suggest that it was probably just the DK-21 sliding off. You can purchase replacement parts pretty cheap.<br /><br />Happy shooting</p>
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<p>These eye pieces are replaceable and can be changed for different types. This is why they are removable. It is not a design fault or shoddy design.</p>
<p>I do agree that sometimes when your putting your camera in a packed camera bag you can knock the eye piece off. Just something you have to keep an eye on. Replacement's are cheap enough and I guess you could alway glue them on permanently if your sure your never going to want to change it.</p>
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<p>He has, Shun, and I have replied to him on there as well. Thought the post's were very similar.</p>
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<p>I Shoot around 20 - 25 <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/">weddings</a> per year and my camera of choice is the D600. I believe this and the D610 is better suited to Wedding photography than the D800 / D800E for the following reasons.</p>
<p>Benifits of the D600 / D610<br /><br />• Marginally better low light performance.<br>
• More manageable file size while still large enough to satisfy any client.<br>
• Great Dynamic range 14.2 Evs compared to D800 14.4 Evs.</p>
<p>The D600 / D610 is more than enough camera to shoot a wedding and yes the D800 / D800E images might be marginally better but under average conditions would be almost impossible to separate these two camera's so why fork out extra cash that you don't need to. <br /><br /><br /><br>
Cheers<br>
John</p>
My lightroom presets change my exposure/WB
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted