Jump to content

mccosh

Members
  • Posts

    373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mccosh

  1. <p>This lens was released on the 9th Aug. 2006 it’s it's predecessor the AF f/4-5.6G was released on the 24th March 2001 and the previous model the AF F/4-5.6D ED was released on the 25th march 1998<br>

    Therefore the AF F/4-5.6D ED had a lifespan of 3 years, the AF f/4-5.6G - 5 Years 5 months while the current AF-S VR f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED model is 3 years 5 months into it's life cycle.<br>

    I own one of these lenses and think there a great lens with very high optics and don't believe there is much Nikon can do to improve on this lens. Is Nikon about to replace it.... my thoughts are NO! But who knows. Your guess is as good as anyone else’s. <br>

    John</p>

  2. <p>I am a wedding photographer and have had a filter damaged by hairspray. When i was taking photos of the Bride and bridesmaids getting ready. I wasn't that close to them but somehow still managed to destroy the filter. All shots taken after the hairdressers where soft focus not enough to notice until I looked at them at full size on my computer screen. I tracked it back to the hairspray as all shots before this were sharp. No matter what I did to try and clean the filter did any good. it looks like the hairspay had eating into the filter. I am so glad that I use a filter all the time as it would have been very expensive otherwise. A good quality multi coated filter will have very little affect on your final image. So I for one from experiance recommend the use of a filter on your lens.</p>

    <p>John</p>

  3. <p>Ida, The problem you are going to get with a F2.8 lens opened wide up, as I have already mentioned is a shallow depth of field. For sharp looking street or landscape images where everything is in focus requires a larger F stop and this will more than likley require a tripod. VR lens will help a bit with allowing you to shoot at lower shutter speeds while still hand holding your camera.</p>
  4. <p>Most of you have recommended a f2.8 lens. I have to ask the question how many people do street or landscape photography with a very shallow depth of field. Most of the time the lens will be stopped down for greater depth of field. Therefore why not consider a cheaper and lighter lens. You might then be able to afford two lenses, one wide angle and the other a wide - tele zoom. All Nikon lenses are excellent quality if stopped down a stop or two.<br />Just a thought<br />John</p>
  5. <p>They are both great cameras and I agree with everything that has already been said. Only you can decide which camera is best for you depending on what sort of photography you do or want to do in the future.<br /><br />I pondered on this same question and went for two D90's. Mind you my decision was somewhat easier as I bought my D90's back in the first week that they were released and to me it was a no brainer as at that time the decision was between the old D300 and the D90. As I didn't need the extra speed or extra focus points that the D300 had over the D90 I went for the newer technology that the D90 offered.<br /><br />I am a professional photographer shooting portraits and weddings and having two camera's identical is a major plus. I have one set with a wide to medium angle zoom (18 – 115mm VR kit lens) this camera is usually set on Aperture priority. The other camera has a telephoto zoom (70 – 300mm VRII) and is usually set on Shutter priority. Having these two set up like this means I don't have to change lenses or settings from one shot to the other.<br /><br />The fact that the D90 is lighter is also an advantage to me. I highly recommend the D90 as a great camera that produces excellent results even with the standard kit lens. It has plenty of features and will allow your photography to grow. However your set of circumstances might be different and the D300S might be more suited to your needs, but for me it's my pair of D90's. Good luck and enjoy your new camera whichever one you choose.</p>
  6. <p>Hi Barak, I have used a D70S for 3 years before upgrading to a D90 and I never had any problems with skin tones. Check out this wedding that I done with my D70S. <a href="http://mccosh.smugmug.com/Weddings/Brad-Hannas-Wedding/7377363_wrkCY/1/475048499_vJ4sL">http://mccosh.smugmug.com/Weddings/Brad-Hannas-Wedding/7377363_wrkCY/1/475048499_vJ4sL</a><br>

    I never thought that the skin tones looked washed out. You can use the settings in the D70S to increase the warmth of your photos. My D70S was all on the standard settings as it wasn't until i got my D90 that I really started to get into the menus and alter the camera settings to my personal preferences.</p>

  7. <p>Dean, what others are charging is what sets the market price. We are saying the same thing just saying it differently. What sets the price is supply and demand and wither you can offer something extra that your competition can't. This is what Robert is referring to above. I know wedding photographers who charge $6,000+ for a wedding and others who are under $1,000. What is the difference between the two, the experience and final results of the images one receives. Portraits are similar but not quite such a large difference in price. You need to look at the market rate for what your offering and base your charge on that, Charge too much above that and you will be struggling to get work, charge to little for too long is dangerous as you could start a price war as your competition will need to drop their price to compete. By all means start off with competitive pricing to get established and get a portfolio. As soon as you have done these then increase your price to the market rate. Photography is different from other products in that you’re not selling a standard item that your customer can compare prices from one photographer to another. Each photographer produces a different product and this will reflect on your price. Also the supply and demand has a Bering; if you can find a niche market that is not already covered you can charge a premium for this.</p>
  8. <p>Your missing my point. What the competition are charging comes into play in setting your price. It's no use charging more than what they are charging. As I said it also depends on how good your shots are. If you think they are not quite as good as the competition then your price has to reflect this based on the Competion's charge. Ie maybe 50% or 75% of what they are charging. Therefore what your comprtition are charging still comes into the equation. As also stated it also depends on what you are offering for your charge. If your shots are not as good as the competition but your offereing more in other ways then maybe you could charge 90% or even the same as your competion.</p>

    <p>What your Competition is charging has to be your starting point from where you base your charges based on the other two items in the equation. How good your shots are and what you are offering for this price.</p>

     

  9. <p>This is not such an easy question to answer. There are a few factors that come into play. What is your competition charging. How good are your images. What are you offering for your payment. I have played around with different options and have come up with the following that works in my market. $100 per hour for that they receive unlimited digital images either in my studio or outdoors at a location of their choosing. They also get 4 (10 x 8) prints from 4 images that they choose including digital enhancement. I charge an extra $20 for any other images to be digitally enhanced. See my web site for more information. <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com">http://www.mccoshphotography.com</a></p>
  10. <p>I have just tried your test and I stand corrected, You are right you can see it in the mirror. Will check this out some more and see why it hadn't shown up in my photo. You are also correct in that in Commander mode the setting is -- not TTL as I previously stated.</p>
  11. <p>When using the SB600 in commander mode set your camera to Commander Mode with the built in flash set to Mode - TTL, Comp - 0 This will set the built in flash to fire your slave flash units but not contribute to the finial image. I have shot low key photography whith a black background in very low light just enough to see what we were doing and only one flash from the side ro eliminate the subject. There was defineltly no light from the built in flash contributing to this photo. So try these settings I'm sure you will find they work.<br>

    My image was taking with a shutter speed of 125 sec. Check you flash settings that you don't have it set up to rear curtain.</p>

  12. <p>In the defence of the D90 you can set up your own custom Menu for items that you access regulary and also set up the FN button on the front of the camera to access your first item in your cutom menu. You can therefore set this button up to do anything that the camera is capable off. I have set my own custom menu without any great difficulty and now use this menu all the time. I never need to access the full menu anymore.</p>
  13. <p>The D300s is a great camera there is no questin about that. The D90 is also a great camera and will feel a lot more like your D80 than the D300s will. If you don't need the extra's already mentioned I would go with the D90 which I believe is better value.<br>

    I bought two D90's one with the 18 - 115mm kit lens and the other as body only where I coupled it up to the Nikon 70 - 300mm VR lens. This gives me a great kit with a backup camera for not much more than I would have spent for a D300s.</p>

  14. <p>I always use a filter on my lens for protection. Which is just as well for just last month my Hoya UV filter was rendered usless when I shot a wedding? I noticed all my images had a soft focus look to them. Checking the images from the start of the day all was fine until we got to the hairdressers. I suspect hairspray has eaten into my filter and has created a soft focus effect. Luckily it was a wedding and I got away with the soft focus. I have tried everything on this filter to clean the surface with no luck. I suspect that the hairspray has eaten into the filter. If I didn't have that filter on my lens would I be looking at a $1200 lens replacement instead of a $45 filter?</p>
  15. <p>Hi Shun,<br />I stand corrected. I wrongly thought the D300 - 3" screen was not the same 920,000 DPI that the D90 has, but on further investigation both have the same screen with the same resolution. However it still adds weight to my augment that the D90 is a great camera and one I prefer over the old D300 especially when it was less than half the price. Although this probably isn't the case now that the new D300S has been released. No doubt you can now pick up some bargain D300's.</p>
  16. <p>I personally would go with the D90 if you can't afford a D300S. The D90 has the more modern technology than the D300. Granted not the same build quality or the 54 point focus. But far superior 3" screen and enhanced D-lighting technology. Just my views but then I did buy two D90 instead of one D300 for the same price. I do wedding photography and having two camera's exactly the same is great, one with a 18 - 115mm wide angle zoomand the other with a 70 - 300mm zoom. saves me having to change lenses and also gives me a backup camera just in case.<br />I agree if your D50 is working fine then keep it as a back up camera and buy a D90 which is a great camera, The video is a bonus but at the end of the day this is not a video camera. If you can afford to go to the D300S is certainly a better camera than the D90. Would you be able to tell the difference in the average shot between the two? I would probably say no.<br />John<br /><a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com">www.mccoshphotography.com</a></p>
×
×
  • Create New...