mccosh

<p>Sorry uploaded a picture of the Canon one's but they also make them for Nikon that I use with my D600.</p>

 

<p>I tried it and ditched it as it is to unreliable outdoors in daylight. Have now switched to the Phottix Odin flash trigger and receivers. These are 100% reliable up to 100 mtrs and can trigger the flash units around corners. Allow TTL and high speed sync with three groups and all can be adjusted from the camera unit including flash zoom on each group.</p><div></div>

<p>I agree Eric that stabilization is nice to have but if your trying to cut down weight then as it seems an overkill on a 24-70mm lens that you would only make use of if shooting at 1/15sec or lower. I wouldn't recommend shooting anybody at these low speeds.</p>

<p>I also agree that on a DX camera that the 28-75mm is a little long but the OP did mention that he was looking at moving to a full frame camera.<br /><br />This was shot at 1/60sec at f/2.8 ISO 800 with the D600 I can shoot up to ISO 3200 without noise being present so I really don't see the need for stabilization on this lens.</p><div></div>

<p>No disrespect to your comment Eric, but why do you need stabilization on a 24mm - 70mm lens when shooting portraits. You should be able to hand hold this without stabilization at 1/60sec at the long end of the zoom range. To capture sharp images of portraits and freeze people's movements you would want to be at least this speed for people standing still and I would recommend a much faster speed for children running around. <br /><br />This is the reason I opted for the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 lens that is non stabilized but is much lighter and smaller than the stabilized Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. </p>

<p>If your looking for a standard zoom that's still f/2.8 and is super light and small Then check out the 28 - 75mm Tamron f/2.8 I currently use this on my Nikon D600 and get amazing sharp images and is very compact and light and is also very reasonably priced.</p>

<p>Lightroom while still do what you want. Have each person add a keyword with their name by using the paint can. from the toolbar.</p>

<p>The histogram by itself tells you nothing. The image obviously has a lot of dark and bright area's in it and not much in between. You need to also post the image so we can see what needs to be fixed.</p>

<p>I have never had a problem with my D600 moving off the Raw setting. Maybe it is because I never use these buttons when the camera is up at my eye. I predominantly shoot is Aperture priority mode. Where I use the front dial to adjust the aperture and the rear dial to adjust the ISO eliminating the need to use these rear button's.<br /><br />This might help you Sam<br /><br />John</p>

<p>Sorry I can't answer your question but I can recommend the Tamron 28 - 75mm f/2.8 lens teamed up with my D600 is giving me increadably sharp images. Check some out <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/Client-Galleries/Jack--Gabrielle">here</a>. Now looking at buying the Tamron 70 - 200 f/2.8 <br /><br />John</p>

<p>I supply my clients with all their images, can be at times over 1,000 images. I find it just as easy to edit all images by synchronizing settings in Lightroom for each group of shots than the time it takes to select the best images from each group. You also run the risk that what you think is not worth while giving to the couple is a shot that they love for some reason or another. Easier just to give them them all except any that are obviously out of focus or eyes shut or makes the bride or groom look bad.</p>

<p>Hope this helps<br>

John<br>

<a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com">McCosh Photography</a></p>

<p>Another way is when importing your images you import them to two separate drives, one for working on and the other a backup. Then all you need to do is backup your Lightroom catalog on a regular basis. I do mind once a week and then only keep the last two copies.</p>

<p>Lightroom creates a new backup file dated to the day of the backup and never removes any previous backup files. Therefore every so often you need to go into your backup folder and delete all your old backup files that are no use to you. You wouldn't want normally want to restore Lightroom to was last year when you can restore it to how it was last week. I normally only keep the last two backups. This might free up enough room that you no longer need a new drive if your just using it for backing up your catalog.<br /><br />If your new drive has been assigned the same drive letter and have the same backup folder then I image that Lightoom would just backup to this new drive with no issues.</p>

<p>John</p>

<p>Hi Bob,</p>

<p>Depends what I am shooting as to how I have my focus set up. I use the user settings to quickly switch from both these options.</p>

<p>U1 - Weddings and outdoor portraits - Camera set to Back Focus on just the center focus point, as I need to be in complete control on what the camera is going to focus on especially when using shallow depth of field.</p>

<p>U2 - Studio shots. As the camera is set on Manual mode with a high aperture and my subjects are pretty much at the same distance from the camera, I leave my camera on standard focus using the shutter button and 39 points. Unless I am trying to be creative then I will switch back to back Focus and single point.</p>

<p>I agree that you need to focus on the edge of something with some contrast then your focus will snap into focus. But this is the same for any focus system on any digital camera and should be second nature to focus on an area with contrast. I just do it automatically that I don't even think about it.</p>

<p>John</p>

<p>A shot from a recent wedding. D600 with Tamron 28 - 75mm f/2.8 lens</p><div></div>

<p>With no disrespect to anyone. There has been a lot of discussion on here about how the AF system on the D600 / D610 has been crippling to the camera. What I would like to know is how many of these people who have claimed this have actually used the camera or are they just speculating that it must be from the specs.</p>

<p>As an owner of a D600 for over a year now and having shot over 30 wedding's with it in that time I have never once been let down by the auto focus on the D600. Even shooting in candle light. The D600 is a great camera and my camera of choice for wedding photography. I personally discarded the D800 as the file size is too large as far as I am concerned for weddings and would just slow up my editing processes as well as requiring larger storage and larger USB Flash Drives for my clients.<br /><br />I agree that since the OP has already got a D800 then the best option for them is to get a second D800 as familiarity with your gear is critical for a wedding photographer. But having said that it is my view and personal experience that the D600 / D610 is very capable camera for wedding photography and the AF system does not effect the operation of this camera in anyway for shooting weddings. <br /><br /><br>

John<br>

</p>

<p>I am also a wedding photographer, and love my D600 it gives me amazing images <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/Client-Galleries/Jack--Gabrielle">Samples </a>The AF is not an issue for me as I only use the central focus point with back focus. This way I am always in complete control on what the camera is going to focus on. Focus is always very quick and precise especially with f/2.8 lenses. The D600 / D610 also have dual card slots which I think should be a must for any wedding photographer, having them set up to backup each other gives you peace of mind. I have heard that the D600 / D610 has marginally better high ISO performance that the D800. In any case the high ISO is great as you will be aware with your D800. I went with the D600 over the D800 because of the file size and I haven't regretted it one bit. If you decide to upgrade your D700 to the D610 I know you won't regret it.</p>

<p>John</p>

<p>Wouldn't a simple solution be to just save your photos and Lightroom Catalog to an external drive and set up each version of lightroom to this catalog. Then all you need to do is unplug and move the drive between your computers.<br /> <br />John</p>

<p>Sorry just noticed that you said that this is not an option. Can't see why not you get small 4TB drives. How big do you need.</p>

<p>Tried it and was shocked at how bad it was. Sticking with Lightroom 5</p>

<p>Kushagra, You have just proved my point. I also have a D90 in fact two of them and also never noticed any dust / oil spots on them. That is until I went looking for them, taken a shot of the sky at f/22 with my D90's showed that they had more spots than my D600 ever had. Granted my D90 are 4 years old now and have over 100k clicks each. <br /><br />My point is that all the hype over the D600 oil spots has got everybody studying their photos from their D600 with a magnifying glass and reporting every single occurrence of spots. Yes the D600 has a oil splatter problem but it is easily fixed and in most cases would go unnoticed if we all didn't go looking for the dreaded spots.<br /><br />John</p>

<p>Don't get me wrong Mike. The D600 has got an oil splatter problem that has been well documented and proved. What I am saying that it is easily removed with a wet clean and does settle down after a while, different numbers have been floated but regardless of what this number is. A few wet cleans is all that is required. Should you need to do this to a new camera defiantly not.</p>

<p>Mike, <br /><br />All camera sensors are going to get dust on them at some stage and if your a serious photographer as I guess anyone who is looking at buying s D600 would be then they should know how to wet clean their sensor it's not that difficult. If I am one of the lucky ones then no disrespect but it is only because I know how to clean my camera.<br /><br />I agree Nikon haven't handled the issue as professionally as one would have expected but I also believe the issue has been exaggerated as well. <br /><br />This wasn't a model but a bride at her wedding, fair point about the leaf :)<br>

<br />Cheers<br>

John</p>

<p>I love my D600 and wouldn't trade it for anything. Yes it had a few spots that a few wet cleans fixed. Can't for the life of me see what all the fuss is about. Great camera.</p><div></div>

<p>One vote for the D300. Old technology but better camera in my mind anyway.</p>

<p>If you like the way Lightroom works then the catalog is no reason to ditch the program.<br>

Use the data structure that you want to use and just set up a Lightroom catalog to point to it. <br /><br />Once you get used to Lightroom you will find that keep your data structure exactly the same as you do now the catalog within Lightroom will give you added advantages.<br /><br />Download the free trial and see for yourself.<br>

<br />John</p>

<p>LR5 upgrade can be purchased separately as a stand alone product, cost $99. However check the upgrade price against a years creative cloud membership for both Paintshop CC and Lightroom 5 at $9.99 month or $120 per year. <br /><br />The choice is yours but if you think you would upgrade Lightroom when the next version comes out then it's certainly worth looking at an extra $21 to get Photoshop as well. I know a lot of people have a problem with this model Adobe have adopted but if your one to keep your software upgraded to the latest version then to me it is a no brainier. <br /><br />But to answer your original question yes a standalone version of Lightroom 5 is available for $99 - note this might vary depending on where you purchase it from.<br>

John</p>