milan_moudgill

Hi all,

I purchased a B+W 72 mm Kaesemann ciruclar polarizer. The box came

without any data on the filter factor I needed to apply.

The closest data I came to across on the net says "apply a filter factor between

2.3 and 2.8". My question is... is there no specific number for the filter factor?

Is this different from filter to filter?

I contacted Schneider Optics on this. The reply was:

"Milan, >>Start at two stops and adjust from there. >>BR, Kevin."

Again this vagueness. Can anyone clarify? If I meter externally, what

correction do I need to apply

Thanks in advance,

Milan

Welcome to India Rob.

You have not specified the format?

8x10 is out of the question, 4x5 is available, though rarely at 'pro shops'. 220 is NOT

available. 120 and 35 are easily available at these shops.

Here is the contact of the main wholesaler in New Delhi:

Madan Jee & Co.

Shop # 12, Opp Moti Cinema

Chandni Chowk

Delhi

the owner, Raj ji, is a lovely man, highly respected in the trade.

His mobile: +91-981 002-6678

The shop numbers: +91-11-23276958, 23269469, 23274331

He will deliver to your hotel.

Expect the cheapest rates when you buy directly from him... all other stockists in Delhi will

typically purchase form him and mark-up.

Also, other stockists in Delhi may not have the quantities you want.

It may be worth your while to call him and see what he has in stock

T Max and Tri-X are available

Fuji Velvia 50-100-400 and Provea is available

For processing go blindly to:

SV Photographics

D-732 Basement,

Chittaranjan Park

New Delhi

(Kodak Q Lab and all that)

The owners are brothers, Satish and Vicky Luthra

Satish mobile: +91-981 101-2178

Vicky mobile: +91-9868513909

shop +91-11-51604001

You could give my reference,

All the best,

Milan Moudgill

Thanks guys.

Christopher, your inputs are very instructive. I do intend to use the images 'quite

large' (will not quantify that for the moment). Till I can get together a large format for this

project I am working on, I am attempting to juice the Contax 645 for all it is worth...

Stable tripod weighed down, mirror up, cable release, small aperture, 220 vacuum back,

Velvia 50 (maybe rated a bit lower).

A lot of this was discussed on a thread I started: Sharpness diff between the 645 and 4x5.

makes very interesting reading. You could scan through it for an overview of the issues

one is looking at:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00EMqt&tag=

Thanks for your time

Milan

This may be a terribly amateur question...

I have a Contax 645 set and am taking delivery of the 45, the 80, and the 210.

Here is my question: Is there data on these lenses - at which apertures are

they sharpest? (I hope this is what a sweet spot refers to?)

Or is this different from individual lens to lens (different between two 80s for

exmaple), that the only way to find out is by test shooting the same scene off a

tripod, going through all the apertures from lowest to highest??

Thanks in advance

Milan

I own a Contax 645, with the 210 being my longest lens. The lack of a tele is a

bit restrictive.

I know Mamiya-645-lens to Contax-645-body adapters are available, and I

am tempted to look at the Mamiya 645 tele lenses to extend my lens range.

(and they are cheaper). My question then is - how is the quality of the Mamiya

645 tele lenses? What do you guys reccommend? Will this be taking a step

back, or are some of the teles actually top class?

I know I will forego AF by using an adpater.

... and while we are on the subject, what of Pentax teles? any ideas?

I have already been looking at the Pentacon 6 lenses on seperate threads.

Thanks in advance

Milan

I read that the Zeiss Jena lenses were super. Does anyone have any

experience with the Sonnar 300?

I am looking for one for my Contax 645, in fact I am looking for advice on a

tele, and I had started a thread on the Hartblei 5.6/500 for this.

The Jena seems to have quite a reputation. Hope someone has used the

Sonnar 300.

Thanks

Milan

Thanks guys.

Sebastien, you may want to look at Zoerk.com for some great TS attachments

(as well some brilliant panoramic and macro stuff)

Kevin, very telling results. The Rubinar 5.6, 500 turned up some good images.

However, do you have any knowledge of the Hartblei 5.6, 500?

Is the Rubinar available on the market? Will I need to re-engineer it to get it to

fit onto the Contax 645 (skills I do not have), or, is it as simple as getting an

adapter?

Do the lenses you have tested, lose AF and other functions?

Thanks

Milan

This is regarding our search for the missing tele in the 645 arsenal.

Has anyone used the Hartblei 5.6/50? What do you think? How are the optics?

Obviously it will need an adaptor... and will lose AF and TTL in the bargain... but seems a

deal for $319. here is a link: http://www.kievcamera.com/camera.php?ID=54

Looking forward to some advice

THanks in advance,

Milan

This is regarding our search for the missing tele in the 645 arsenal.

Has anyone used the Hartblei 5.6/50? What do you think? How are the

optics?

Obviously it will need an adaptor... and will lose AF and TTL in the bargain...

but seems a deal for $319. here is a link:

http://www.kievcamera.com/camera.php?ID=54

Looking forward to some advice

THanks in advance,

Milan

I would appreciate advice on recommended places for making large

professional prints (from 120 slide film - therefore scanned and printed)

What are 'archival' quality prints? What are the standards?

I believe IRIS prints fall into this category? What else is available?

Basically I am inquiring about everything related to archival printing and

reliable places that provide the entire range of services, from scanning to

output, under the same roof.

Thanks in advance

Milan

Bernard,

get to eBay...

search for "Contax 645 lens hood"

Currently there are two 71s, one 72, and one each 101 and 74 listed. Now

how is that?!!

TIP:

Hit the "advanced search" blue link (below the "search" field) in the top right

part of the page.

Fill in a search for "Contax 645 lens hood", and save it as a 'favourite search'.

Then ask to be alerted by email when new items come up for auction.

Whenever a new hood is listed you will receive a mail automatically. Go

online and bid. All the best.

I have recently got two hoods, a 210 lens and a cable release, all in great

shape, off eBay. Since I have been watching the Contax 645 item very closely

over the last few months (my favourite search alert is for "Conatx 645"), I know

that hoods regularly come up for auction. So much so that I am confident you

will find them easily.

Milan

Hi Lee,

it must not be fun using the Contax 645 without a strap.

I am copying a link currently on eBay

OpTech Super Pro Strap for Contax 645

Item number: 7582405709

This item shows up time to time. Has always been there; for the last few

months at least. I have not used it, but you could query on the forum through a

new thread, and might get feedback from people who own it?

My advice would be to spend the $24 that it is listed at, and get this strap

immediately. You can keep trying for the strap ends for the original piece side-

by-side.

The few dollars spent now hardly compares with the risk of dropping the

camera (sorry for seeming such a pessimist - but I would described that as a

realist view!)

All the best,

Milan

Ah, lens hoods!!

Now that is another animal that I have not even begun understanding. Colin,

could you warm me up to the issues involved, and to where I could do

additional reading.

KIT: Contax 645, 45, 80, 210 (all 72mm dia lenses). To use CP and 4x6 ND

Grads. Any recommendations on a lens hood?

Wayne and Ferdi, many many thanks. I never cease to be amazed (and

touched) by the care and detail that folks like you take in responding to

queries.

Milan

I see.

Yes, I did some additional reading... the smaller Lee filters are for the Cokin P

system. If I go for the 4x6 Lee filters then I need the Lee holder and adapter.

that is clear.

About the Kaesemann... the funny thing being that another combination - I

think the multi coated wide angle is more expensive than the Kaesemann,

which got me thinking. I will stick with the Kaesemann.

From what you say it seems that I need a 105 CP if I mount it ahead of the Lee

filter holder. The advantages are evident. However I may be using the CP on

its own, more often than the combination. Which means, if i go for a 105 i will

be stuck with always using the filter holder.

thanks for the advice.

can anyone else sharpen this thread?

Responses to earlier posts have been very helpful. I wanted to take a rain

check before putting my money down.

I am looking at the B+W or Heliopan CP and the Singh-Ray or Lee ND Grads.

All my the lenses are 72mm dia.

I wish to keep the choice of filters independent of whether I may graduate to

LF (filter size choice will be based on my Contax 645 kit)

QUESTIONS:

1. I did a search on at Adorama. Even within BW and Heliopan there is a wide

range in cost between various 72mm CPs... multicoapted, wide angle, slim

and kaesemann. Depending on the combinations ( mix of multicoapted, wide

angle, slim and/or kaesemann) the costs vary between 100 to 200$. What is

recommended?

2. The Lee system seems to include (on their website) a 'foundation kit' that

takes 100mm filters (other sizes can be adapted). What size of filter (NDGrad)

is advised? Shall I stick to the full 100mm NDs or is there a smaller size that is

more sensible a choice?

3. Again in the Lee system, should I be looking at the standard or wide angle

adaptor rings for my 72mm lenses? My widest lens is the 45mm.

4. The Lee foundation kit gives an option of attaching a 105mm accessory

ring instead of the front cover, enabling a CP to be attached - allowing for the

ND and CP to be used in conjunction with a wide angle lens. Is this a better

solution than putting the Lee system ahead of a 72mm screw on CP?

If I do go for the former, what size of CP will I need... will I need a 105mm

CP!!!!

Thanks in advance.

Milan

Ellis! Always the wise overview - Thanks!

Sorry... I forgot to mention this was a Contax 645 question.

The film availability issue... I am using Velvia 50 more and more. For now it

seems my immediate needs are covered. In the future, whether 220 will

become even more scarce is a question that is as pertinent as - will digital

completely kill film. Something that I am happy to live with.

... and how does one figure the 'sweet spot'? Is this data available? Is it

different from lens to lens, even if both are the same focal length?

I have a 45, an 80 and am looking for a 120 and a 210

Thanks

Milan

Here is what may be a very basic question...

Having read more than a few posts on supposed lack of sharpness - resulting

in brand new backs being sent back for repair/service, got me convinced that i

should not compromise on the back/insert and not risk getting a second-hand

piece.

So I paid extra dollar, ignored eBay, and got a brand new 220 vacuum insert.

But my back is a second hand piece.

Which got me thinking... what is critical to sharpness... the back or the insert?

Or the combination is the key?

Can anyone shed light here? Have I been stupid and got a new insert in

reaction to the reported problem, where I should have looked at a new back

as the critical component contributing to sharpness?

Thanks

Milan

This question develops upon my earlier thread.

I was wondering how to works out the correct tripod for my

equipment. The heaviest my Contax 645 gets is with a 210mm lens, and

weighs in at under 3kg.

Working with this figure, what should the optimal tripod and head

rating be? I know heavier is better, but I will be trekking and need

to keep the weight low. On the side of caution, I am willing to

chose a heavier-than-optimal carbon fiber, but, to start looking,

what is optimal.

Since I am warmed to the Gitzo and Bogen/Ms, a suggestion on

particular models will be brilliant.

Similarily, how does one work out ball head specs to suit equipment.

For example, the A-Swiss B-1 has received great reviews, but it

supports 90lb, which in this case is a huge overkill. What is a

sensible buy - Kirk Bh-1 (or 3), Acratech Ultimate, the RRS

ballhead...

Also, putting a heavier-than-necessary ballhead will tend to make

the tripod top heavy - undesirable.

I read somewhere that 2.5 times the heaviest expected load is a good

figure (the tripod must be rated to support 2.5 times the heaviest

load). Any basis for this figure.

What I am looking for is numbers that anyone could use to work out

their own tripod/head rating.

Sigh! What a tough issue to crack. It seemed easier to decide on a camera than a tripod/head!!!

Thanks for the input guys, I am wiser, but hardly clearer!!

Milan

Hi, I am looking for a tripod that will be good for my Contax 645. With the

largest lens, the 210 the total weight will be close to 6 pounds/2.6kgs.

I do not wish cost to be the first factor.

Landscapes will be its main use, so a sturdy piece is a must. I expect cold

sub-zero temperatures.

The above two factors have me looking at woods and carbon fiber. Here is

where some help will be brilliant...

The Berlebachs look like a good option, the 8043 is only $240, with a

levelling center column, and the max unextended height is 49", and supports

8kgs. (is this overkill for my requirements?). This model Weight 6.17 lb (2.80

kg)

There is a claim to supreme stability over metal and CF at the B&H site:

(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=

details&Q=&sku=302818&is=REG&addedTroughType=search).......

"the best reason to choose wood over any other material for a tripod is its

incredible ability to absorb vibrations. Wood simply does not resonate

vibrations such as other materials, instead it gobbles them up. A wooden

tripod placed in a shallow stream may be vibrating quite a bit where the legs

meet the water, but up at the column it is dead as a doornail. Putting a laser

pointer on top of a metal, carbon fiber and wood tripod and shaking the legs

of each clearly displays the advantage. The laser pointer's beam upon the

wood tripod will have come to a rest much quicker than the others, and

additionally its resonating disturbances will be smaller as well. This will

assuredly show up in your pictures"

I tried doing a comparative with CF, looking at Gitzos. The 1258 also seems to

supports 8kgs, the max height is 51.8" (against 69"), it weighs half as much at

3.1 lb (1.4 kg) but costs $540. Obviously, without a levelling head this may be

an unequal comparison.

I have read some not so nice things about the Gitzo CFs... about the CF being

brilliant for compressive loads but not taking kindly to being knocked?

With this groundwork, what would you users suggest?

Also, the gitzos have eversible studs which means that both 1/4"-20 & 3/8"-16

heads can work. The Head Mount Thread Size in case of the Berlebach is

only 1/4"-20. Is this a constraint when it comes to attaching different

ballheads?

I have a L508 that, over the last 4 years has given me exemplary service.

However, abuse in course of duty has left a few marks on the globe, and the

spot meter glass is scratched a bit.

I am concerned that this will have implications on the metered results and I

wish to have the globe and glass replaced.

Any suggestions (besides sending it into Sekonic) where this could be done?

Thanks in advance

Milan

Thanks all.

Let me see... So the L plate lives fixed on the camera. I must choose a ball head that

comes with a QR clamp? And get a QR plate that is compatible with the ballhead?

Does that mean not all ballheads (like the recommended Arca-Swiss) come with the QR

clamps... and are not all QR plates designed to work with all ballheads?

I would guess that all manufacturers are into a system approach that will allow for cross-

usage of products?

Secondly. The Gitzo 1325 is highly recommended (and weighs 4.5kg).

Two questions here: I see at B&H that this comes as a tripod, and a column needs to be

bought separately? And the levelling base is recommended for landscapes?

And, as Lee points out, if I were to upgrade to LF later, would something like the 1548 be

what I should look at right away(8.2kg!!) Or is that an overkill? WIll the Arca Swis ballhead

still work with the 1548 in the LF scenario? is a QR plate a stupid thing for LF?

Thanks in advance

Milan

After studying a lot of threads on this forum, I am going in for either a Hitech,

Singh-Ray or Lee soft ND Grads. That decision rests.

What I am unsure of is what size- 4x6inch or 85mm will work with my Contax

645?

Checked at B&H. Hitech makes both. Singh-Ray makes only 85mm. Lee only

makes 4x6. (this may be just what is available at B&H and may not mean

each manufacturer does not have both sizes)

The 85mm filters are listed as 'for Cokin P' (I understand the system). Since all

my lenses are 72mm, if I go for the 85mm filters, I just need a 72mm adapter,

and I am home dry.

But should I buy the 85mm filters? I am inclined to get the 4x6 filters so that I

can, at a later stage, when I graduate to LF, still use the 4x6 filters.

Tell me if I am being stupid. Is there anyway to get the 4x6 filter system to work

with the Contax 645 (72mm dia lenses)? Will it become all too cumbersome?

Or should I stick to 85mm filters?

And how can I get a circular polariser to work with the system

Thanks in advance,

Milan

What tripod-ballhead combination do you recommend if I plan to use a TC

and a 210mm with my Contax 645. I am looking at the carbon fibres, and,

assuming cost is not a constraint - what would be your top two choices?

Second issue: Since the said 645 has been purchased, but not delivered, I

have not had a chance to examine it and have no idea of how it will lock onto

the ballhead. It has a MP-1 Battery Holder.

I have purchsed this L-Plate that comes highly recommended:

L Plate BC645BG-L

(From www.reallyrightstuff.com/body_plates/contax/index.html)

My question: how will the 645, the L-plate, and the ballhead interact? Do I

need a special quick release plate to detach the camera? Will the camera

come off with the L-Plate, or will the L-Plate remain on the ballhead?

Would appreciate any ideas on a tripod-ballhead combo, and clarity on how

the L-Plate system will work as a quick-release system.

Thanks in advance

Milan