milan_moudgill

Hey Niels, John, Jochen – I decided to go with building a cardboard box to place over a small light box, upon which I will place an iPhone, and quickly photograph the transparencies one at a time.

Thanks for your inputs!

I apologise!

TP = transparency is an abbreviation commonly used in India!

This is wise advice. Yes, I had looked at the V600, but even that seemed way over my output needs.

So there really is no cheap and quick scanner that could be recommended?

Hi,

I need to scan about 2000 colour TPs (120mm – 645).

They are mostly single pieces (few are as strips).

My need is not for high-end results, but to get scans that are decent enough to refer to, to know what I have.

The scans will come together as a digital archive, with keywords and reference to the sleeve number in which the TP sits. This way I can quickly find TPs, and, if need be, make selections for high-res scanning in instances where I might need to make professional prints, or for distribution, etc.

Once this project is over, I will not have need for the scanner.

Any advice on something low cost that will get the job done would be really appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!

Dear Jochen,

Thanks for your super response.

Onto it!

Looking to replace a broken original. I am sure there is no way I will ever get my hands on an original lens cap – can anyone suggest what might work as a third-party replacement?

The lens has a 49mm filter size.

Thanks in advance!

<p>I like where you are going with this Eric. Thanks.I too agree with the proposed set. Makes sense to me. 10-24/35/18-135 for now.<br>

BTW, the used prices you remember looking at – were they off eBay? Or?<br>

<br />Thanks for the inputs everyone. Really love what happens on photo.net, which happened again on this post.</p>

<p>Background:<br>

This is a solo cycling piece that will take me into the rain shadow of the Himalaya. And the trip is unsupported by vehicle. I expect poor infrastructure on the way.<br>

<br />The weather sealing makes the Fuji an attractive option. (The monsoon will be peaking in July, and in the rain shadow, further up, there will be dust – lots of dust)<br>

In this exercise, I am not looking to match the 5DIII output. The search is for a system that will adequately cover my needs while being a 'light' kit.<br>

The X-T10 is 60gm lighter, but sadly is not weather sealed. Besides the mag loss in the viewfinder.<br>

<br />The struggle, when selecting the lenses, is going to be about the number of lens, versus the 'low light ability' of the kit. I do not wish to take more than two lenses, to reduce need to change in the field – and therefore the zooms. The primes look beautiful, but for the reasons above, I am gravitating towards the 10-24 and the 18-55, as suggested by Eric. (The inability to open up wide is a compromise I need to live with I guess).<br>

The 18-55 is more appealing than the 16-55, being half its weight. At the same time 10-24, at 410gm, is not exactly light.<br>

<br />Not considering two bodies.<br>

<br />Here is where this gets even more interesting – the editorial concept will involve the cycle (and myself at times), featuring in the frame, and therefore the need for the remote. Not looking at the phone app. See this: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJN058/" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJN058/</a><br>

After harping about weight, the crazy thing is a tripod will need to be added to the kit! And now once the camera kit is out of the way, I will need to figure that one out.<br>

Is a tripod another post? Or can I consider asking for one here? Looking for light 4-5ft tripod that will allow exposures of a few seconds.<br>

Hey, I really appreciate the inputs provided here. Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>You are right, there is nothing restricting the search to within mirrorless cameras. Yet, whatever the choice, I am looking at a 'substantial' weight advantage over my Canon kit:<br>

Canon 5DIII (860gm)<br>

Canon 24-70 2.8 (805gm)<br />Canon 16-35 2.8 (635gm)</p>

<p>The XT-1 with battery and card is 440gm.</p>

<p>The various Fuji lens options are:<br>

16 f 1.4<br />1000 USD<br />375gm<br /><br /><br />18mm f/2<br />600 USD<br />118gm<br /><br /><br />23mm f/1.4<br />900 USD<br />301gm<br /><br />35mm f/1.4<br />600 USD<br />187gm<br /><br />56mm /1.2<br />1000 USD<br />405gm</p>

<p>10-24 f4<br />1000 USD<br />410gm<br /><br />18-55 f2.8/4<br />700 USD<br />330gm<br /><br />16-55 2.8<br />1200 USD<br />655 gm</p>

<p>The body, with the 18, 35 and 56 weighs in nicely. However my shooting style tends to gravitate to what might be covered by the 10-24.</p>

This is great!

Thanks for your responses. Let me study the Fuji X offerings and get back.

Kenneth which 22mmp Canon are you recommending?

The trick, I think, will be to come up with a lens system that will suit my needs, are light enough, and not cumbersome to

deploy.

Meanwhile, looking forward to any other lens advice.

Doing a commission for Nat Geo Traveller, where I need to travel as light as possible.

So now looking for advice on an APS-C camera, and two 2.8 lenses covering 16-70 range equivalents to a 35mm system.

Not considering the Sony A7 series FFs. (because of cost, and little overall weight advantage). Not looking at micro 4/3s.

The system should be capable of delivering a great magazine double-spread (11" x 16" @ 350dpi approx), with juice to spare.

Besides that I would like a wifi trigger capability, at least 5fps, fast focussing system, good low-light handling, and possibly a Bulb mode,

and a hot shoe.

Video capabilities are immaterial, as is a built-in flash.

I am looking for a handsome weight reduction compared to a 5DIII (860gm), Canon 16-35 2.8 (635gm) and Canon 24-70 2.8 (805gm)

Which camera system/s would you recommend? (Body plus lenses).

If you were to ask 'what is your budget, I might keep that as a lesser consideration. But to put a figure to this, maybe 3000 dollars tops.

Thanks in advance!

<p>Thanks for your response!<br>

It is helpful, though a little sad-making that i've hit a dead end with this!</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

<br />I am considering the Pentax645z, if only I can use my Contax645 lenses with it.<br>

1. Would anyone know of an adapter to do this (use Contax 645 lenses on a Pentax 645z body)?<br>

2. And if you happen to know the limitations of such an adapter (MF vs. AF, TTL metering, Exposure modes, etc.)?</p>

<p>Many thanks in advance!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hey, really appreciate your patient responses.<br>

So, its quite clear that the MP-E 65 is not for the setup in question – specially since I cannot stop down the lens manually. That, and as pointed out, its design makes it unsuitable for reversal. Advice well taken.<br>

Frankly the reversal was being considered since I had no idea of how else to connect a Canon lens to the F mount on the end of the PB6 bellows. Reversal rings are available, to mesh with the F mount, but I am not aware of a Canon-lens-to-Nikon-body convertor.<br>

Also, from the posts, I would rather stick to a solution with the PB6, since I own one, and since its mounting rail is useful for achieving focus, sturdiness, et all – rather than the Fotodiox bellows. Again, agreed.<br>

It seems that the suggested solutions are to go with:<br>

1. "Canon 20mm macro head", in reverse,<br>

2. or work with a Nikkor macro (I have the 60 macro, with reversal rings). <br>

3. Totally think afresh… and consider a microscope for 10x<br>

Joseph, any advice on where to get the 25mm Zeiss Luminar, or the Canon 20mm macro?<br>

Thanks for all the inputs!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Ah, maybe I do need a microscope? Will look into that separately.<br>

Ever since the post, I have been looking at options… I own a Nikon PB6, and it seems I can attach the 5D to the bellows through an adapter (why indeed go for a $50 bellows…!)<br>

http://www.fotodiox.com/product_info.php?products_id=123<br>

and reverse the MP-E on the other side through an adapter…<br>

http://www.fotodiox.com/product_info.php?products_id=154</p>

<p>So Paul the bellows will be on a tripod.<br>

I am looking at (correct me if I am wrong) shooting without a ring flash, as the working distance will be too small to get a ring flash to throw such a wide spread of light… the idea is to hook up daylight balanced continuous lights on either side of the lens, much in the manner of a copy stand.<br>

What am I losing with foregoing aperture control? I will manually open the aperture to focus, and then stop down when shooting? <br>

Let me know if I am off-track!<br>

Thanks,<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hi folks,<br>

I want to do some macro work off a 5D MkII…</p>

<p>Stumbled upon the Fotodiox Macro Bellows:<br>

http://www.fotodiox.com/product_info.php?products_id=501<br>

… which is on offer for $50. (150mm max extension)</p>

<p>On the other end I plan on using the MP-E 65 lens, and see if I can invert it using their Fotodiox Macro Reversing Ring for 58mm thread:<br>

http://www.fotodiox.com/product_info.php?products_id=156<br>

…available for $15</p>

<p>Just wondering if anyone out there has any experience with these products? Any advice and tips? (I am not looking for tilt/shift features.<br>

Compared to some the other systems out there it seems quite cheap, but does that come at the price of performance, or quality?<br>

Any advice will be hugely appreciated…<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hey thanks Tommy!<br>

Any seller you could point me to, besides Ebay would be useful.<br>

I do use the MC-25, with the AR-10 for my F-100, so I see what you mean… get a Canon 3-pin, and splice it with a MC-25 to make a hybrid. (I would rather do this on a MC-25, rather than directly onto the AR-10 so that I can preserve the AR-10).<br>

So the question is, if there is no lens info going to the body, then why use a double cable at all? Am I missing something here? Having got an external meter reading (however I manage that), I should just manually stop down the lens to the correct aperture, and shoot in M mode?<br>

Your inputs are greatly appreciated!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hey thanks Tommy!<br>

Any seller you could point me to, besides Ebay would be useful.<br>

I do use the MC-25, with the AR-10 for my F-100, so I see what you mean… get a Canon 3-pin, and splice it with a MC-25 to make a hybrid. (I would rather do this on a MC-25, rather than directly onto the AR-10 so that I can preserve the AR-10).<br>

So the question is, if there is no lens info going to the body, then why use a double cable at all? Am I missing something here? Having got an external meter reading (however I manage that), I should just manually stop down the lens to the correct aperture, and shoot in M mode?<br>

Your inputs are greatly appreciated!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I was wondering if someone could advise me on a specific problem.<br>

I have a Nikon PB6 bellows (and macro paraphernalia, including the Nikkor 60mm macro). It would be a shame to lose its use in my moving to the Canon 5D II.<br>

All is not lost? I think the 5D II body can be attached?<br>

1. I would be grateful if someone could point me to where I could get a convertor to the Nikon mount?<br>

2. Will the convertor retain the TTL functions?<br>

3. Finally, I use a double release cable called the AR-10, for when I was using the bellows with a F-100. (to stop the lens down to the preselected aperture at the moment of exposure). What would I do in the case of using the 5DII with the PB6? Will I need to manually set the aperture on the lens? Is there any way of getting any degree of automation in this proposed system?<br>

4. What similar (or dissimilar) shutter/lens cable options do I have in this case?<br>

Thanks a lot, in advance,</p>

<p>Milan</p>

Hi All,

I wonder what is recommended in terms of 80 to 120/160GB portable devices which can playback pics?

My concerns:

Large screen (upwards of 3.2".... 3.6" plus is preferred)

Should be capable of displaying RAW

Good Camera(or card)-to-device, and device-to-computer copy speeds

Fast USB 2.0 (which I presume is the standard?)

Superior battery for 'long' play

Video and MP3 capability are of no consequence

Other added plus-es:

Would be lovely if I can zoom in, rotate, etc.

Select random images and do a slide show off the device

Thanks in advance,

Milan

Thanks for the tips!

Bob, I am painfully aware that operator skills are the key, and that there is a lot of

learning needed before putting down a single dollar � therefore the thread! Good to

hear that constantly. Keeps the mind on the overall picture.

Gerard, read about the macrophots (and the MP-E65) and have been considering

their 5x advantage. The downer is the bellows. The novoflex universal bellows with

(EOS compatible) reversal accessories et all add upto some 1300 dollars approx.

Now idea when (and for how much) a macrophot will turn up on e-bay? Which means

if I am to look at the MP-E65, I add another 835 dollars to the budget!

Not sure how much the total magnification will be with 192mm extension (along with

the 5x used in reverse)? Any guesses? Will need to weigh this against the

advantages of using a microscope. (all disadvantages/shortcomings already pointed

out having been well taken).

Best,

Milan

Hi all,

I hope this is the right palce for this query:

I am looking to put together a system to photograph details of printed type (serifs etc.) with a 1Ds

Mark III.

Printed typeforms will mean working at (printed) sizes of possibly 0.2mm to 1mm. I would like to

'fill frame' with these details (of printed type.)

All of this will be shot in studio.

I have done a fair bit of reading on which the following is based:

1. Need frontlighting only? (Thinking of the MT 24EX Macro Twin Light).

2. Looking at the microscope tube adapter (NT41), and the T-mount adapter (NT54-350) from

edmundoptics.com to connect the camera to a microscope with 10x/20x and 40x objectives.

I hope I am not thinking impractical or being stupid here? Please do course correct if I am way off.

If I am more or less correct, I need help in identifying a suitable microscope...

Is it advisable to get a trinocular (stereo/compound) scope for photomicrography?

If optical quality of the final image is of concern, what brands are desirable?

Do you recommend a model that will give me 'sharp' and 'beautiful' images?

Eventually the images will be blown up around 3ft

What else do I need to know? (apart from vibration concerns � sturdy tripod, mirror-up, etc.)

The type cannot be scanned, which would be the easy thing to do. The subject are old fragile

books.

Thanks in advance,

Milan

Hi!

I own a Macro rig, based on the nikon PB-6 bellows, including Auto extensions rings, reverse mounting

macro adapter ring BR-2A and the BR-5 as well as a 60 mm Macro lens, along with the AR-10 release

cable.

This kit was put together for use with my Nikon F-100.

Only now I wish to use the system with a digital camera.

Which of the high-end (12.8 mpx) Nikon bodies can be used with the bellows. Do I need to buy a new

(different) release cable?

Also what focussing rack can you suggest? I use a Acra-Swiss Z monoball, and therefore an Acra Swiss

clamp.

Thanks for your time,

Milan

Hi Colin,

The viewfinder readout does light up, but only for a few seconds, and then goes blank.

For those few seconds everything from the battery level indicator (to the left) to the EV bar

(to the right) lights up. All the numerals are the figure 8.

The 5 electronic beeps (2 slow ones, followed by a short pause, followed by 3 quick ones),

occur every time when:

1. the power switch is brought to the ON position

2. the mirror-up button is depressed

3. the depth-of-field preview is depressed

4. the pre-flash lever is engaged

The viewfinder lights up for a few seconds, as explained above, in all these instances.

I have tried cleaning the contacts on the lens. No improvement.

The camera works perfectly with the 45mm, 80mm, and 210mm.

What is going on!!!??? Can someone help please?

Much thanks,

Milan

Hi!

Thanks for taking time out to reply.

I realise I should have been more specific.

The camera is the Contax 645.

The body works perfectly with my 45, 120 and 80mm lenses.

This problem is specific to the 140 lens. The problem developed all of a sudden. The lens

(second hand) was working as it should just before the problem developed.

I have all ready queried ToCAD and am awaiting a response.

Does anyone have any insights in the light of the above information. i would really

appreciate hearing your thoughts.

Thanks

Milan