shiang_wang1

I don't think you are going to see much difference with D or G on film, but nano coating in general is more resistant to

flares. The 'look' you're looking for varies more from what type of film you use than D vs. G lens.

 

If you like Ektar, you will probably like Velvia 50. Very unforgiving film, but when you nail the exposure, you will be

rewarded with stunning pictures. D800 started me on digital side, but my F100 is always loaded with Velvia, ready to go.

For center focus point, it might be ok (just). For left or right focus points, it is off, don't even think about it. I use live view

on MF lens.

<p>Pete<br>

I typically use flash indoor in situation where I rely on flash completely without accounting for ambient light. Using aperture priority with negative compensation, I can easily hit -5 max limit before I reach a safe speed. Manual works better for me. For fill flash, you are right, aperture priority works better.</p>

<p>What surprise me is that an old flash like SB28 seems to know what speed the modern camera has and can adjust its output accordingly except those speeds outside its boundary.</p>

<p>With SB-28, I can only use manual on D800. Aperture priority will over expose the shot, D800 acts if it doesn't have the flash. To compensate the exposure, I can only adjust aperture (on the flash or camera), speed doesn't make any difference until you set it higher than 1/320 second, then you start seeing half black pictures. I use SB28 in A(uto). I believe SB26 works the same way.</p>

I have a Sony notebook with 2nd gen i5 and 12 gb ram. I use LR4 to processe D800 files without any problem. I tend to

keep my computer pretty clean without excess software. Before you pull the plug to upgrade, here is my suggestion.

 

1. Restore your computer back to factory setting and see if you still have same problem. This is to rule out other software

issue since your computer is not that old. Reinstalling os is even better, because notebooks usually come with bloatware.

 

2. If that doesn't help, upgrade your notebook hd to ssd, and get a usb3 card Shun mentioned, and put your old hd in a

usb3 enclosure. Now you have an external hd.

 

If all fail, go for a desktop. Good luck.

<p>You also need to consider the cost of swapping out DX lenses if you decide to go with a FX body instead of D7000.</p>

<p>Over the years, I have owned 3 film bodies, and close to 10 lenses. Some I bought brand new, some used. Except for two lenses I recently acquired, the rest of lenses are more than 10 years old. Only one failed on me (55mm macro AIS). Three cameras that I have are all in good working condition, even the 20+ years old FM2. I don't know if the current AFS lenes or DSLRs can have this kind of track record. For this reason, if I buy used, I would look for models that are no more than 4 years old, specially DSLRs.</p>

<p>Many people have provided good tips on buying from ebay, but you will notice the auction that have detail pictures tend to sell at higher price. You are paying for that peace of mind.</p>

 

<p>Oops here is the picture.</p><div></div>

<p>An old gas station in central Texas, where I drive by quite often.</p>

<p>It is the first time I scan B&W film, no ICE, and I recklessly didn't clean the film. It sort of suits the scene, so I leave it be. </p>

Eric

Here are some links i found with pictures taken by this lens, on Canon bodies though. It seems that it is still hard to get a

Nikon copy in Asia. Sorry it is in different language, but pictures speak for the lens.

 

http://www.dcfever.com/forum/read.php?f=12&i=194315&t=194315&phorum_auth=e2a28d2dfa4faba9ca6785103fdd3cec

 

In this link, the author compared it with Canon 35mm 1.4L. He thinks overall Sigma is better. It is sharper, better control in

CA but the vignette and autofocus are not as good as Canon, just by a hair. Compared with Sigma 50mm F1.4, 35mm is

a lot faster and quieter.

 

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=244&t=3075861

 

 

I think Sigma has better contrast, if I were in the market for a 35mm lens, I will seriously consider this one too.

John-Paul,

 

I use 2 64gb cards, so I don't need to lug a notebook with me when I travel. It is personal decision, some like to have

multiple smaller cards, some like bigger size.

 

 

Speaking of USB 3, I also recently got a Lexar reader along with the new 800x CF card. 800x reads three times faster

than it writes, and it makes a difference comparing with Sandisk Extreme SD when you dump huge amount of data to

computer. To me it has better value than 1000x.

<p>1. Delay Exposure mode accessible from dial instead of menu.</p>

<p>2. Additional image area (aspect ratio) : 16:9. Granted, you can get that by switching to movie mode, but I like to shoot it from viewfinder as well.</p>

<p>Ann-<br>

24mm f/1.4 AF-S is a G type lens, it will work on F4 only in S or P mode, because you can't control aperture from command dial. On F100, it is fully functional. Ergonomically, F100 fits me better than D800, I have small hands.</p>

<p>Or like Jim said, grab both and sell the one you don't like. These days, film costs easily outprice the costs of film bodies in the long run, well, the two you are interested in.</p>

<p>I have L plates on cameras I used frequently. For smaller lenses, you might get away with it and turn the plate vertically into the slot of the ball head. For heavy and long lenses, you have collar on the lenses, L plate is moot. They are essential for those lenses in the middle. My L plates glue to camera bodies, I hardly take them off.</p>

<p>Those L plates for film bodies do not have much wiggle room when you screw the plate to the body, which is perfectly fine as you don't need to access anything on the side of the body. The L plate I got for DSLR gives more room for sliding so I can access HDMI and USB cables easily.</p>

<p>I faced the same question a few years ago, and ended up choosing Z1 with lever release, which can be adjusted to fit different width on plates. My reasoning is mainly how smooth the ball operates. Early Z1 had some risk using with Sidekick, due to stem construction between the plate and the ball. It shouldn't be a problem if you purchase new.</p>

<p>You do need to be careful when using it in sandy situation. I am not sure about blind cyclists. You realize this is a fine instrument, I wouldn't want to test how much blunt force it can withstand.</p>

<p>Every ballhead you listed above is good, it all comes down to personal taste and need.</p>

<p>28mm f/2 AIS is soft in corners even at f/5.6. Close range images look better. The mixed report on 28mm G hinders me from switching. The quest of finding a perfect 28mm goes on.</p>

Try Eye-Fi sd card with sd-cf adaptor, some people have luck with that on D3.

<p>Jiawei<br>

If you really enjoy macro, 60mm f/2.8D is a good start, you won't be disappointed. I owned one. I would stay with D version simply because it is newer. The type of subject you shoot determines your working distance and that, you have to decide what focal length works for you. Another cheap option is extension tube, the drawback is you have limited range of distance that will give you focus. With that said, you can use the rest of money for a 35mm f/1.8G. Tough decision.</p>

<p>Based on the information from novoflex website and B&H, it can be used in aperture priority and manual metering. It also supports G type lenses, it can't autofocus though.</p>

<p>I used to own a 28mm AI f/2.8, very sharp on film. I sold it before I got D800. I have 28mm AIS f/2 now. On D800, it is soft on corner until I step down to 5.6. On film, the problem isn't as apparent. Here is one of the review I can find on Voigtlander 28mm.<br>

<a href="http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/12/07/voigtlander-28-2_8/">http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/12/07/voigtlander-28-2_8/</a><br>

I have their 58mm and love it.</p>

<p>Now you can have fun each ever direction you go.</p><div></div>

<p>You can see far away at the top.</p><div></div>

<p>Continuing on the same theme from last week, this is another Hill Country attaction, Enchanted Rock. All taken on D800, 28mm AIS f/2.</p><div></div>

<p>Close to the end of the West Loop Trail. Color isn't the best this year, but it still attracts a lot of visitors.</p><div></div>

<p>At the beginning of West Loop Trail.</p><div></div>