cametacamera

<p>A pinhole camera can be ANY size. The distance from hole to "film" will determine the legnth of the exposure. The shorter the distance, the quicker the exposure can be. But... the shorter the distance, the smaller your image will be.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>one question, two suggestions:<br>

are you shooting 120 film and is your insert for 220?<br>

If not, try another back or another insert.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>You shouldn't have any problems in normal shooting scenarios. The older cards have slower read/write speeds than today's cards. Sometimes I see delays with fast camera operations and slow cards.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>In preferences, it just gives you the available options for when you DO display a grid, you'll need to go to "view" then select "grid" to see the grid overlayed atop your image. You should be able to move your images to similar points in the canvas with this feature enabled. Also, you might want to disable "snap to grid" as this might cause the same problem you already have. BTW I am using CS4. It might be different in your version.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>I agree, start with manual in camera and in flash and then troubleshoot(no pun intended) your issues.<br>

Also, make sure there isn't a preflash issue you are dealing with that is triggering your Bee before the camera has fired. Tiny preflashes are sometimes the way auto modes figure out exposure or lock exposures. There is almost never a preflash in manual mode.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>Here is another option... make your own: FREE!<br>

http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/<br>

This is a cool site that lets you download a PDF of a deconstructed lens hood. Simply download, print and cut out the shape. Slap it on and you are now flare free.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>I've used several "papers" like the one you are looking for. There are several options for inkjet and pigment printers and you can easily find the 3' size you are looking for. You'd have to scann this piece fisrt though. Another option would be to do a contact print in a darkroom. This means you would place your original painted silk on top of the "paper" and expose it with an enlarger, or room light or other means. You wouldn't have to scan it this way, but it may be more difficult to find a darkroom with these capabilities. Also, the size of the finished print could not be manipulated in this example.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>Get yourself a nice 2x tele-converter. It will get you to the 400mm you desire and the F/stop will be equivalent to the 400mm prime(the cheap(er)) one and the 100-400mm. With the money you save you can go to an exotic place to shoot those birds.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>A great way to evaluate used equipment is to take a few sample photos with the actual equipment. In the digital world you can see the results much faster then you could back in the film days. Simply bring a CF card to the camera and try a few shots. You can evaluate these at home and see the quality/defects for yourself. Also, if you take a few shots, the meta data will include a shutter actuation count. There are several progams that can show you this data.<br>

have fun!</p>

<p>In "A" all you have control over is the "A"perture. Aperture is responsible for flash exposure while the shutter speed is in controlof the ambient exposure. When using a flash, especially the built in one, it is common that the shutter will default to a factory specified speed, handy for not exceeding the max shutter/sync speed and also handy for proper FLASH exposure, not handy for creative control, or ambient exposure. Sometimes this can be deactivated, or changed in a settings menu. Otherwise, go manual and check your settings menu for ttl, hss, or other exposure options for flash. Also, you should be in the setting you are going to use(P, S, A, M, etc.) when trying to change menu settings, otherwise some options might not be available.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>Many manufacturers have something like this ready to "plug and play" with your camera body. Also, some motor-drives have this feature built into their hardware.<br>

What kind of body are you using? I could probably point you to something specific if I knew that bit of info.<br>

Another option would be to stay up during the entire exposure, that way you could could explain and see for yourself, any anomolies that occur in your photographs. Lots of things can happen in a few hours of exposure.</p>

<p>Daylab is a VERY difficult company to reach. I realy think it is just one person.<br>

Before I got the Daylab that I do have, I used a regular enlarger and a pack film holder positioned where you would normally put the paper. Tips: use slides, that way red is red and blue is blue, not the other way around. B&W negs can produce dramitic images and you can filtrate the color you want in ... or out... Make sure your film holder is FLAT or focus will trail off.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>If you really want unpredictable, try cross processing slide film. Shoot slide film like normal (maybe a slight over exposure) and then ask your lab to put it in C-41 chemistry. It will come out as a negative with extreme shifts in somewhat unpredictable ways.<br>

Also, try x-rays. Take several trips and ask for your film to be scanned several times or leave it in your checked luggage. The higher the ISO, the faster and more pronounced the effect/affect will be.<br>

Have fun!</p>