xxloverxx

<p>Is that a book?</p>

<p>Sand will get into any and every opening of any camera you have, given the chance. You wouldn't go wrong to take some gaffer tape with you and tape over any openings you don't need (e.g. shutter cable thread).</p>

<p>I find RFs 10x faster to focus, but that's very likely because I use an RF every day and take the TLR out maybe 5x a year (if that). It must just be what I'm used to — when I used an SLR every day, I could focus quickly with a plain matte screen…</p>

<p>I find the biggest advantage you can have is that you know it and are used to it.</p>

<p>Very few TLRs allow you to change lenses.<br>

TLRs let you shoot handheld in lower light than SLRs because there's no mirror slap.<br>

Folders are the lightest but bellows wear out (leather bellows last longer so go for those if you can) and they weren't really designed with ergonomics in mind.</p>

<p>Shooting landscapes, I'd be using a resting platform (flat rock)/tripod and cable release anyway, so mirror slap shouldn't be so much of an issue. Choose based on lens.</p>

<p>The same cable works on my Canon P, Nikon FM, Vitoret, Hi-Matic 9 etc without problems. It's not just this cable either — I've tried 3.</p>

<p>I stuck a toothpick into the area and got a tiny bit of dirt out, but it's not making a difference — still extremely tight.</p>

<p>Does anyone use this camera? There seems to be a total of one website which briefly mentions its specs and when it was made.</p>

<p>The PC sync socket is so tight that I'm strongly considering getting a PC-hotshoe adapter to mount permanently onto this camera — any other suggestions?</p>

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<p>There are a number of shops in Stanley Street that sell 120 film so you should not have any problems getting what you want if you choose to buy film in Hong Kong.</p>

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<p>+1 on that. Chung Pui's where I go for all my film. I don't let them develop it anymore though — all their scans have at least one (very noticeable) dust spot.</p>

<p>Black or grey?</p>

<p>Is that a finger in the bottom right of the 2nd photo?</p>

<p>If you're going to use a J12, you'll need an external finder, so choose based on whether you want lever wind or knob wind, size etc.</p>

<p>I'd go for an early FED. The FED 2 isn't too big and the back comes off.</p>

<p>Any LTM non-battery dependant RF for me.</p>

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<p>I use a few drops of aronalpha instant glue, which is permanent and dries quite quickly. I used to use double-sided tape but the heat in summer basically made the glue on the tape melt.</p>

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<p>Would like to just clarify something, when you set the speed on a film camera incorrectly it either will either expose or underexpose it</p>

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<p>Only if your camera actually has an auto mode. A lot of cameras have meters but no linkage to the shutter or aperture.</p>

<p>As long as there's no liquid/grease/oil on mine (including fingerprints, obviously), I don't mind a little bit of dust. I just wipe anything off with my tshirt, unless it's serious — then I use a blower and cleaning fluid with lens tissue.</p>

<p>There is no "best" film. I like Tri-X.</p>

<p>What do you want direction in? Preserving the negatives/equipment, printing them, scanning them, using the camera?</p>

<p>Also, that the camera was made in 1870 gives very little information — a few photos would really make ID easier.</p>

<p>Like Ross, I upgraded last year, but to an FM, not an FM2n.</p>

<p>Then I got into RFs and now rarely have a problem with low light.</p>

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<p>Read up on the laws, be very clear on them, then just carry on with what you're doing, provided it's not illegal.</p>

<p>Works well for slower paced photography. I think Ansel Adams kept technical records for most of his photos, especially with the developing & printing.</p>

<p>With street photography…if I were to keep records of every photo, I might as well not go out at all.</p>

<p>The only time I keep a record of settings is when I'm testing new cameras and lenses. Useless every other time as I don't have a darkroom.</p>

<p>Also, I find that writing things down and, in general, thinking about irrelevant things disrupts my creativity.</p>

<p>In any case, records wouldn't matter too much to me — 99% of my B&W in any format is Tri-X, my colour's either in Portra 400, Ultramax or Ektar and I basically only shoot 1/50, 1/60 or 1/125. If I shoot 1/25 or 1/30, I can usually tell just by looking at the photo and conditions it was made in.<br>

I'd say almost all my B&W street shots were shot at 1/125.</p>

<p>To everyone advising Kristijan to go digital, it really depends. Film cameras never really need to be upgraded.</p>

<p>I had to make this decision myself a while ago…</p>

<p>From memory, I didn't find many differences between the 4 and 6 — the biggest difference was knob vs lever winding. General opinion of the lever on the 6 wasn't great (read complaints of long throw and uncomfortably thin lever) so I went with the 4.<br>

IMO the winding knobs on the 4 and Kiev 4 are about the same, but the Zorki's is taller and may be more comfortable. Neither are as good as my Zorki C, which has the older(?) style knob (feels more like a nail file)<br>

The 6 has a hinged back (with a supposedly badly designed lock — from photos, it looks like the locks on Holgas but I hope it's stronger than that) and the 4 has a removable back (with 2 locks on the bottom)<br>

I think I read somewhere that you can change speeds on the 6 without winding on first, but I can't confirm that. The 4's manual says you have to wind on before changing speeds else you'll wreck the shutter or something…</p>

<p>The Kievs are better for rough use and clean design — the Kiev 4a has a total of 2 knobs on it, while the Zorki 4 has…4. Apparently the RF design of the Kiev makes it almost impossible to knock out of alignment, while the Zorkis, following Leica's 2 prism(?) design gets knocked out more easily.<br>

Then again, readjusting the Kiev's RF requires disassembling most of the camera, while on Zorki's it's done by removing a few screws.</p>

<p>My Zorki 4's back locks feel more elegant than my Kiev 4a, but that might be a QC thing.</p>

<p>You get more lens choice with the Zorkis as they use M39, but I find that the Kiev's bayonet feels much harder to damage and there's no possibility of cross-threading.<br>

On the other hand, the Kiev's built-in helical has a ridiculously long throw, which I can't stand. And unless you jam it, there's infinity lock on any lens that uses the built-in helical.</p>

<p>Should mention that the Kiev's VF is appalling compared to the Zorki 4, but because it's dimmer, the RF patch is easier to see, and it's square, not blob.<br>

Actually, I don't know what the shape of the RF patch on the Zorkis are. On my C, it's circular. On my 4, all I see is a blob. Works fine for me, might not for you.</p>

<p>I live in HK, so it might be a bit different, but:</p>

<p>1) I look at the sunset time, arrive 30-45 mins earlier and stay 30-45 mins after the sun's gone down<br>

2) I just look at the sky throughout the day<br>

3) Look at the sky and forecast<br>

4) I think you need a really clear sky for that</p>