photomarche

<p>The updated review is out from dpreview<br>

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-d600/23<br>

Me too I am considering upgrading from d7000 to d600.<br>

A part from the small coverage af area, I am really concerned about this:<br>

"Sensor appears unusually prone to dust spots"</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

On "d600 or d800", what concern me are the hidden costs related to the d800. There are comments about the d800 requesting only the best lenses to fully take advantage of the 36mp sensors. What does this mean in practice? For example, what would be the result of using the d800 with the new 24-85mm lenses (sold as kit lenses for the d600)?<br>

I do not need the build and aperture of pro lenses. I have in mind the 24-85mm, the 70-300mm, the 50mm 1.8 G and possibly the 16-35mm f4 (manly for landscapes/ still objects photography), and I do not want to be forced to get more expensive lenses because of the camera sensor. I have not tried the d800 with the above lenses and I cannot say what would be the quality…. What is your experience?</p>

<p>Dilemma – Invest in an FX lens for the future, stick with current DX or upgrade DX? That is the question.<br /> Hi, I am currently travelling through Asia and enjoy shooting environmental portraits and scenic images of landscapes</p>

<p>Paul, <br>

got the same "dilemma"months ago as I was looking for FX lenses to use with my d7k, considering going to FX in the future.<br>

See my post: <br>

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00aR41</p>

<p>In the end, I got myself the 16-85DX and I do not regret at all my choice. I needed a versatile and portable lens for landscapes to keep always on as I use filters a lot. <br>

I borrowed the 24-70FX, and it is very heavy on the d7000. In low light situation, I prefer a prime lens @1.8 or wider.<br>

I also considered the 16-35FX, but I found the range too short on DX.<br>

For the time being, the 16-85 is good compromise.<br>

Hope it helps.</p>

<p>Scott,<br>

I am convinced that the 16-85 would be a better choice for the D7000, however I decided not to buy any lenses for now and wait what Nikon releases next. Let's see if those rumors about a new entry level FX camera are true. Is so, I might go FF and buy different lenses. Should I decide to stay on DX for a bit longer, than I will probably get the 16-85.<br>

Everything is on hold at the moment, and I think we should know what's next in the Nikon world in a couple of months time during photokina. <br>

Thank you for pointing out other options like Sigma & Tokina, I will consider that as well.</p>

<p>Stephen,<br>

Personally I would not get a full frame body for street photography, nor the d300s. Too heavy and intimidating. I find very interesting the Olympus OM-D E-M5 for this kind of photography, and there are other good hybrid models out there.<br>

Going back to Nikon, the D5100 plus 35mm DX f.18 is a good combo. IMO, you would upgrade to the D7000 only if you need in camera autofocus motor to use some older prime lenses. Check if the D5100 works with lenses such as the 24mm f2.8 D and the 50mm f1.8 D, there are older and affordable lenses with the scale.<br>

Here are some tips for you<br>

http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/street-photography-tips-and-techniques/<br>

hope it helps.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I do think, despite the sales, the fact that every review has complained that 36MP is too much for most users (sRAW really is on my D800 requests list) and claimed that only the best techniques and glass will properly use it might mean that there's a market out there being scared off the D800, and not just by the price.<br /> <br /> The D800 isn't really a competitor for the 5D3, and one could argue that Nikon might want to produce such a competitor, although not treading on the toes of the D4 in the process might be the hard part. Keeping the D800's low frame rate at the cost of not competing with the 5D3's might be an acceptable trade-off for a lot of users if there's a price differentiation as well. A D600 would certainly raise if it was real, but I can imagine that Nikon might want to wait until everyone who was going to buy a D800 had done so.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Agree. I am hoping that Nikon will release a more versatile and all-rounded FF camera soon, with less resolution and a bit more fps (could this be the d600?).<br>

Otherwise I will sell all my dx equipment and get the Canon 5d Mark whatever.</p>

<p>Thanks Greg,<br>

I feel a bit uncorfortable when I want to change lenses I am working on the beach, the coast is windy as well, you never know I might get sand inside the camera etc, I'd rather have the same lens on in this situations.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Shun,<br>

I use the Lee filter holder system with grad and standard filters, however I do have dedicated ring adapters for each lenses, so it is easier to trasfer the holders from a lens to another.<br>

Thanks for your inputs, I would not use such lenses (24-70) at 2.8 for people or so... for that, I enjoy my primes.<br>

From what I am reading around on reviews, It looks like 16-85 DX is a good candidate and superior to other kit lenses. I hope this is a good perfomer on the d7000, I am aware of the fact that the d7000 sensor requires good quality glasses. This lens would also replace 3 of my existing lenses in most occasions, I have very few shots done at 10 and 12mm</p>

<p> </p>

<p>@KJ Thomas: I ll probably follow your advice and rent it for few days...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If it is purely for landscape, I would not get the 24-70 f/2.8, really. Nor the 17-55 f/2.8, for that matter.<br /> The reason I would not take either of the f/2.8 zooms for landscape work is the fact that I wouldn't be using f/2.8. Or f/4.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Good point.<br>

I am now looking at the review of the 16-85 on the d7000, I am reconsidering the whole thing now.. thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I need some advice on lenses for landscape photography.<br>

My gear is:</p>

<ul>

<li>nikon D7000</li>

<li>10-24mm (DX)</li>

<li>35mm prime (DX)</li>

<li>50mm prime</li>

<li>70-300mm</li>

<li>Manfrotto 055XB</li>

</ul>

<p>I am happy with the 10-24mm, however in many situations I found it too wide for landscapes, especially when I want to capture details.<br>

At the moment, I keep changing the lenses between the 35mm and 50mm… it is not very practical to do this outside, considering also that I have to remove the filters holder and add it back after changing the lens. Also the light does not wait for me to change the lenses :)<br>

I would like a more versatile solution.<br>

Now, I am considering the Nikon 24-70mm in place of the two prime lenses, to use mainly for landscapes on the tripod.<br>

I would still have to change dometimes between the 10-24mm and the 24-70mm, but I guess this is inevitable.<br>

I have strong reservations about buying DX lenses, only because I want to go full frame in one year or two, otherwise the 17-55 could be a solution. <br>

I also think that the d7000 is unbalanced with the 24-70mm.<br>

What it your experience? Any comments would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>mmm... I considering as well the nikon 70-300VR on d7000, excellent compromise between quality, weight and price.. very portable. But, is it good enought for the d7000 sensor? <br>

Personally I would use it for general travel photography and landscapes, I do not do sport. I just want good sharpness and low CA. <br>

The more expensive 70-200 f2.8 is out of my reach, is there anything in between the two?<br>

I am also looking at the Nikon 80-200Mm F2.8Ed, the price is in between the two.<br>

Amyone experienced with Sigma/tamron lenses?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Going from d80 to d7000 is a big step and the learning curve is steep.<br>

Pay attention to the hyper focal distance when focusing, aperture, try to use higher quality lenses (you can forget the kit lenses).<br>

I found this article interesting about the d7000, I upgraded myself recently from the d70 to the d7k<br>

<a href="http://mansurovs.com/nikon-d7000-review">http://mansurovs.com/nikon-d7000-review</a><br>

from the article...</p>

<ol>

<li>High resolution sensors need better lenses that can resolve more detail. Do not expect your old crappy DX kit lens to give you super sharp images on the D7000.</li>

<li>Camera shake is more noticeable on high resolution sensors when images are viewed at 100%.</li>

<li>Even slight autofocus errors are quite visible on high resolution sensors.</li>

</ol>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for all your comments,</p>

<p>@Scott, thanks for the feedback on the hook.</p>

<p>@Larry, great !!!! I was looking for something like this, very usefull.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am considering buying manfrotto tripods, need to decide between 055CXPRO3 (crabon) and 055XPROB (Al)<br>

For the head, my choice would be the ball head 498RC2, which support 8kg. My equipment does not weight more than 3kg.<br>

I like to take picture of landscape in windy situatioion, and I would expect a good tripod to have a hook on the central column to add weight.<br>

These manfrotto models above do not have a hook for ballast, however a small hook weight mechanism is located on the top of the tripod and looks like plastic.</p>

<p>Does this solution work? is this as effective as having a hook on the central column? I see many positive reviews on the carbon fiber 055CXPRO3 , but I cannot immagine using this tripod on the windy coast without adding weight. Otherwise, I'd go for the havier alluminium version.</p>

<p>What is your exceprience?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Francesco</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you for your answers.<br>

I am now inclined to get a heaviest tripod than the 055XPROB, I could be the 058 but I want to do some more research considering other makes as well.<br>

There are some carbon fibre tripods from manfrotto that weights around 3.5kg (series 057), a good compromise but definitely outside my budget.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I like landscape photography and I am considering buying a solid tripod for those situations where it is windy, or I am in the water and use a long exposure (few seconds and sometime more than 1 minute using ND filters). Examples are the coasts in Dorset and Wales (UK).<br>

My camera is not very heavy, I am using a d7000 plus dx wide lens and lee system… did not weight it but should be less than 3 kg.<br>

I am considering tripods with weight around 2.5 kg (legs only), plus head. An example could be the manfrotto 055XPROB, portable enough for me, but I am not sure this is heavy enough.<br>

I am also looking into the manfrotto 058B, about 6kg. Expensive choice and it is going to break my back, on the other hand I do not waste money on something which is too light.<br>

What is your experience? Would something around 2.5kg do the job?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>thanks guys, learnt something new from your asnwers :)</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I using the Lee filters holder for landscape photography, and would like to use my 100mm filters in combination to a polarizer filter. I understand that I would need to buy the adaptor ring to screw to the foundation lee holder, plus the 105mm filter… a costly solution.</p>

<p>Currently I am using the Nikon 10-24mm (77mm) and I screw a circular 77mm polarizer on the top. The problem is that the lee filters holder does not screw in on the top the polarizer filter, so I have to remove the circular polarizer between the lens and the holder.<br>

I am looking for alternative solutions to buying the 105mm filter ring adaptor.<br>

1) Is there a way to screw the filter holders on the top of the circular polarizer (maybe a step up lens adaptor)?<br>

2) Is there a 100mm polarizer filter I can just slide in, suitable for landscape photography?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Andy,<br>

the remote did not work for me... probably because of the cold. I would get a shutter cable instead.</p>

<p>Regards</p>

<p>thank you Jose, I ll use one of those USAF test chart you suggested.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am enclosing the sample at f/8, it looks sharper to me. Same distance, settings and light condition.<br>

Tomorrow I will test again with daylight and different subjects...</p>

<div></div>

<p>tests:<br>

1) 1/13s @ f/1.8<br>

2) 1/8s @ f/2.2<br>

3) 1/6s @ f8<br>

Yes, It could be the light or something else in the enviroment....<br>

What would be a moreprofessional way to test this, what are the pro-photographer using? maybe I need to buy some charts?</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Hi,<br>

I just bought a nikkor 35mm f1.8 to use with the d7000.<br>

I did some focusing test tonight, taking pictures of a mobile phone keyboard under artificial light.</p>

<ul>

<li>ISO 100</li>

<li>RAW</li>

<li>Aperture priority</li>

<li>White balance auto</li>

<li>tripod</li>

<li>shutter cable</li>

<li>Mup</li>

</ul>

<p>I focused on the keypad, on the button "ABC", only ones than i turn the focus to manual and change only the aperture from f1.8 throughout all steps to f22. The keypad is approximatly 50cm away.<br>

On ViewNx2 I magnified each picture to 2x, I got the best sharp result at f8-f11. The keys are all blurred from 1.8 to 5.6, improving with greater steps.<br>

According to dpreview, this lens achieve the best sharp result around f3.5, whilst in my test the keypad appeart be blurred at 2x, and perfectly sharp at f8. For smaller aperture (e.g.above f16) it is a blur, but this is probably expected due to diffraction.<br>

I do not understand why the images are not perfectly sharp at f3.5 or f4 for example....<br>

Now, could the test enviroment (e.g. light) affect the result? I am going tomorrow to take some day shot with the tripod and see...<br>

I am very reluctant to use the af fine tuning, it is a trial and error approch and could make things worst, nor I believe that the d7000 has focusing issues....</p>

<p>What do you think?</p>

<p></p>