mat_thornton

<p>Sorry to hijack the thread....I have the haoda C/Y to EOS adapter. Does anyone know how to remove the haoda adapter from the lens?<br>

Maybe I'm being stupid but I can't seem to get it off my planar 50/1.7. There appears to be a locking mechanism but I've tried everything.</p>

 

<p>There are some quality examples posted. I like the subtlety and warmth of John's (crowleys) Sandblaster image. It almost looks as though it is a film still and John (Macpherson) has really emphasised the the dramatic side of the movement which is great, especially in the deer. I love the Oyster farmer. It must be hard to achieve this without it looking to forced or contrived. </p>

<p>@ralph. Yeah, this is definitely a technique that I want to try and push. If you get the right balance it can add so much to an image. I really like the grain working against the movement in your legs picture. It really adds to the overall rawness. </p>

<p>Thanks for all the replies. They are really helpful and insightful.</p>

<p>sorry...<br>

<strong>Plastic Wars</strong>, just number 4, <br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-plastic-wars/" target="_blank">www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-plastic-wars/</a><br /><br /></p>

<p>I really like the sense of movement in this type of shooting. I've seen it used well before and wondering how this blurred/camera shake technique can be achieved effectively. <br /> <br /> Using a slow shutter speed? or something achieved in printing? The images always seem to be quite contrasty overall. I've read about shutter dragging but the examples I've seen seem quite excessive compared.</p>

<p><strong>Paolo Di Lucente – Strade </strong>numbers 5-7, 10, 13, 14, 15<br>

<a href="http://www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-strade/">www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-strade/</a><br /> <br /> <strong>Plastic Wars</strong>, numbers 4, 11, 12, 14<br /> <a href="http://www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-plastic-wars/">www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-plastic-wars/</a><br /> <br /> <strong>Satmar</strong>, number 8<br /> <a href="http://www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-ortodossia/">www.paolodilucente.com/index.php?/-ortodossia/</a></p>

<p><strong>Christopher Anderson—Capitolio </strong>number 7<br>

http://christopherandersonphoto.com/</p>

<p><strong>Sohrab Hura – Oasis</strong><br /> http://www.burnmagazine.org/essays/2009/06/sohrab-hura-oasis/</p>

<p><strong>Clément Val—misc./diary</strong> number 16 (image of the two dogs).<br>

http://www.clement-val.com/</p>

<p>I would really appreciate any help or info.<br /> <br /> Thanks,<br /> Mat</p>

<p>Gus, Benjamin, Jim... Thanks for the information—very, very helpful.<br>

The other body I had problems with was another M6 classic silver and then this current one. The silver body had to be sent back 4 times to be repaired over a shutter issue. I accepted my current black body as a replacement, but that then had an issue with the winder jamming. Probably just a stroke of bad luck but it seems that I can only go a few months shooting without something else happening! </p>

<p>I have a M6 black—serial 1677848 from around 1985 (I think). Last week on holiday the meter started to play up. At first I thought it was a problem with the sun being to bright for the situation because the meter started to work again back at the hotel room but now it has stopped working all together in all lighting conditions. I have tried 3 sets of batteries, wiping the contacts on the inside of the back plate and inside the battery compartment. I have also tried all combinations of shutter and aperture settings under the sun and rotating the ISO dial to see if grit or sand had maybe got into the body and I still get nothing. I am now aware the I will probably have to send this off for repair, which brings me to a few points I would like more information on:</p>

<p>Is this a general problem or does this tend to be an expensive repair? I am in the UK and wondered approximately how much this could cost me, from repairing a loose wire to replacing the meter board plus any recommendations on who/where I should send this to? It would be really helpful if anyone had any info/tips/help on this as I would greatly appreciate it.</p>

<p>On a side note this is really annoying, as this will be the 6th time I have had to send Leica bodies back for repairs in two years. One body had to go back 4 times for a shutter lag issue and it's eventual replacement had a winder jamming probelm and now this. Should I get a voigtlander bessa instead? :)</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Mat</p>

<p>Ok great, I'll try that. Hopefully it's not to difficult tightening the washer. If it's looking to difficult, I'll take it in.<br>

Thanks for all the feedback on this.</p>

<p>This will help..<br>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwQGNcJEdDk</p>

<p>Thanks for all the replies... very helpful.<br>

Is the rewind crank easy to get off? I was trying with a small screwdriver last night and I was finding it hard to get the grip to turn it. Maybe I need a screwdriver with a larger handle.</p>

<p>

<p >I'm experiencing the exact same problem with my Leica rewind knob as in the post below. My film advances to around 15 exposures and then jams. I wanted to ask if this would be something that I could fix this myself by removing the rewind knob and tightening the washers. The thread below does mention that there was a link to a webpage by Kyle Cassidy on how to fix this problem but the link doesn't work now. Does anyone know if this is a straight forward procedure, and how to do it? If it's something that needs to be fixed professionally how much would I be looking at? I'm in the North of England. </p>

<p >Any help would be appreciated. </p>

<p >Thanks,</p>

<p >Mat</p>

<p >BTW This is the info taken from the following thread:</p>

<p >"It's the washers under the rewind knob coming loose as the film is wound. Usually they would unscrew enough to jam the knob by the time you reached frame 10-12. Rewinding would screw them back in enough to let you get another 10-12 frames on the next roll.</p>

<p >There is a link from the Leica FAQ site to a webpage by Kyle Cassidy on how to fix this problem but the link doesn't work now. As I recall the rewind knob has to be removed and then the washers underneath have to be tightened."</p>

<p >http://www.photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00OQ9E</p>

</p>

<p>Hah, sorry, I'll try to get this right this time...</p><div></div>

<p>Here's the issue....</p>

<p>

 

<p>I hope you're right! <br>

Below is an example of the problem I'm getting. I get varying oddities happening down the left hand side of frame, especially at faster shutter speeds (1/500 and 1/1000) Not sure if anyone can shed any light on this??</p>

 

</p>

<p>Thanks Jonathan. I bought the M6 second hand from Stephens Photo Centre on Deansgate in Manchester.<br>

www.leicas.com<br>

It came with a years warranty, therefore I've just been taking back there. They has use a local technician for repairs but I'm not entirely sure who it is. The owner has been really helpful and supportive with the problem. I just hope they can sort it. I've been using my Nikon FM2 more in the meantime.</p>

 

<p>Over the past few months I've had my M6 Classic in twice to be repaired for the same problem. I was getting over exposure down the left hand slide of the frame, which was more evident around 1/500 and 1/1000. Nothing had changed after the first repair, so on the 2nd repair the brake was replaced. I've just shot a roll this weekend and it's still the same, therefore it's going back in again this week. 3rd time lucky, although I'm not entirely sure what will be the outcome. It's starting to get really frustrating.</p>

<p>You can get it from here...<br>

http://www.retrophotographic.com/</p>