sam_portera

Thanks for all of the advice and I do plan to have the unit checked out by a qualified repair tech. I have checked the unit a few times during the day and seemed to be working fine until about an hour ago. Each time I unplugged the unit so my kids don't hurt themselves, on the last occasion I plugged the power cord into the back of the unit and turned it and it failed again but this time I noticed that the power cord seems loose on the unit so I applied more force and behold its working again. Im not saying this is the problem but seems possible if the unit is not getting enough voltage to charge the capacitor it will not fire. W

 

Regarless of this I plan to try to use it it the morning for my session and then take it to a place I tust, I'm also carrying my Versatron power pack light as a back up. I used to carry the monolight one pole and umbrella and a camera to jobs like this now I have twice the equipment to carry!

 

Thanks again.

My unit is not fan cooled. It does not seem to be hot all in fact I just tried it again and it just fired about 50 times with no problem. I am still worried that it will fail at the wrong time.

 

Although it is ten years old I have replaced the flash tube once. It is in great condition and I only use it 20-30 times a year.

 

The job I have tommorrow is portrait at a dental office for display and phonebook adds. The sunpack will due fine for the head shot of each person but the group will include 20 staff members and I don't beleive the 622 will give me enough power.

 

I'll bring the monolight and cross my fingers along with my back up systems and have it looked at later this week. It just seems like an odd problem since its intermitent. It charges, will fire sometimes then stops and now it working flawlessly. I am perplexed!

A few days ago I posted a question about my camera and sync problem.

Well apparntly all my gear has decide to act up at the same time.

 

I have been using a Hensel 800 WS monolight for about ten years for

my portraits and weddings. I am to shoot a session tommorrow. I

took out my monolight to test it last night and for some reason it

will only fire for about six to ten flashes then it stops. If I shut

it off for an hour it will resume but still only firs a few times

before stopping. This happens regardless of if I fire it from the

test unit or with a Pc cord.

 

Electrically speaking what could possibly cause it to work for awhile

and then stop. The unit does not appear to be over heating. Is this

a resistence issue? loose connection? I took the outer shell of and

can find no unplugged wires or terminals. what should I look for?

 

I do have a back up but its a versatron power pack system and large

window light that is really too big for this assignment. Or I can

mount my Nikon SB-28 or sunpack 622 on my umbrella and use that but

the recycle time is way too long.

Ive been using a Mamiya M645 1000s wi CDs prism 80mm f2.8 and 150mm

F4.0. I used on my last portrait session and it is apparently have a

sync problem now. I am sure I had the shutter speed set to 60 becase

I only use with flash.

 

Now if it is in fact a shutter problem is it worth fixing? I could

shoot everything at 30 instead of 60 but its not always practical. I

bought the above system used for $800US. If its not worht fixing

what should I look for to replace it. Staying with mamiya would be

nice because I already have two lenses.

 

Thanks

I agree with steve. I have shot several weddings and usually in manual mode 30-15 @ 5.6 and my Sb28 in TTL mode. My first wedding was under exposed because I was in Matrix Balanced fill flash mode. If your in a very dark church or reception hall use TTL. Suprisingly the SB28 work very well in non-TLL (auto) mode with my Leica M6. You really should do some testing to see what works best for you and the film you choose. I have recently switched from NPS to NPH for weddings and parties. It really is a great film.

Does it rangefinder couple to the M6? I have an 0.85 M6 TTL with a 50 Summicron and 90 ELmarit. I tend to shoot long lenses and not wide but a 35 would come in handy on occasion for me. My low cost choices are the J12 or CV 35. I can buy three j12's for the cost of one Cv Color-skopar.

I know there has been lots of discussions on the russian lenses in

general but I have not found much specific information on the

jupiter 12.

 

Any experiences? Anyone wish to post a few shots with this lens?

Does anyone know the filter size for the original elmarit. I beleive

its a E39 can anyone confirm this for me?

 

 

Also can someone recomend a hood for use with the original elamrit

and a cheaper alternative to the Leica hood for the Current Summicron

50?

do you have any others to share maybe outside with the lens stopped down a bit?

Art is subjective and fluid. What is perceived as beutiful and soulful to me maybe a snap shop to you. So what are we discussing here? HCB wasn't the greatest? Maybe not but those who say he should be banned here are completely out of line.

 

I think sprier's just angry that HCB used a Leica and not a Konica Hexar.

Bill

 

What exactly do you think sucks about HCB's work? I'm really curious becasue when you factor in that most of this work was done from the early '30's to early '40's I think its fantastic. HCB didn't have Pentax 6x7's or quantum Qflashes, He made do with capturing the subject in his or her enviroment With a simple Leica and 50mm lens. Classic.

 

His photos define photography for me. None of it is staged. All are as real to life as you or I .

 

"Our task is to perceive reality, almost simultaneously recording it in the sketchbook which is our camera. We must neither try to manipulate reality while we are shooting, nor manipulate the results in the darkroom. These tricks are patenly discernable to those who have eyes to see."

 

HCB- The Decisive Moment

I'm did it with just 50. If you intend to photograph some of the shows there as I did a 50 gets you a little closer than 35 and it can be used for pics of your kids with out distorting their faces too much as a 35 would do at close range. If I had a 90 at the time I would have brought it too just because I wanted close ups of my little girl on the different rides.

 

PS get a small flash too sometimes there just isn't enough light. A vivitar 2800 should do.

I agree with Lee the M body is what its all about for me. The Leica glass is great too but there are other options for lenses. I got my M6TTL with brand new 50 summicron latest for a total of $1900.00 US and haven't looked back yet. My B&W enlargements are slightly better than what I got with my Contax G1 and 45 Planar but I have a greater percent of acceptable shots. Translation: I get better results with the M6 and I can tell you it has everything to do with the camera body. It makes me more methodical and logical. I can do the same with my Nikon FM but its very loud and hand holding at 1/8 while the VF blacks out makes it too difficult.

I agree with Sal. If you have poor skills in the darkroom a computer and inkjet can solve a lot of your problems for you. But if you are a very skilled printer You simply can't reproduce on a PC what you can do in the darkroom.

Are wash aids such as hypo clearing agent necessary in developing

film? If so what are the alternatives to kodak Hypo. I would like a

liquid concentrate if possible (I'm using all Ilford chemicals and

papers) I can't find a description of Ilfords Universaol wash aid?

Is it liqiud or powder.

Funny!

Douglas

 

Simply wanting to get the most for your hard earned money is not gear obsession. If I had gear obsession I would buy the most expensive newest APO on the market. I have bee looking for a while and I have gotten some good advice and some bad. I actually tale LOTS of pictures and I don't know where your from but here there is no one that carries any of this equipment therfore I have to use *bay or order from the internet. On-line buys worry me because I don't have a counter I can go to and express my displeasure with my purchase. When ordering from out of state camera shops I have learned through the years that you have to be very sure of what you want because most charge return fees and generally make it difficult to get your money back if your not happy.

 

Having said all of this I hope you can understand my hesitations.

I had thought of the Konica Hexanon however there might be an issue with the mount. Will the Konica focus at say 6-8 ft for portraits (at F2.8)?

Im looking for a 90 for my M6 0.85. I have $500 for this so the new

elmarit and summicrons are out of my reach at this time. I currently

only have a 50 Summicron latest.

Ive narrowed my choices dow to the following:

 

90 Elmar-c F4.0 ~$300

 

90 Rokkor F 4.0 ~$300

 

90 Tele-elmarit F2.8 ~$500

 

90 Voigtlander APO Lanthar F3.5 ~$400

 

 

I shoot mostly portraits and weddings. My M6 is always loaded with

fast B&W film and I use it for available light shots at events I

cover along with my fine art images of life in new orleans. The F4.0

are a bit slow but if they are sharp wide open F4.0 should be

sufficient.

 

Any advice? I wish I had purchased erwin puts "Leica Lens

compendium" Anybody care to comment on the above lenses are

elaborate on what Mr Puts has to say about them?

Comparisons such as this are meaningless. The Pentax images were scanned using a film scanner wich is a digital process. I suspect that an ilfochrome print would blow away the epson print from the 1Ds in feel and depth. I no longer read such comparisons becuase until you have the prints in hand you can not appreciate the craftsmanship and art that was used in making it.

 

I have seen a few "fine art" images created with digital and while they are very "sharp" they remind me of a TV screen not a photograph. Yes there is no grain but there is something new introduced and its called noise. Shoot at any ISO other than 100 (or underexpose)ISO and you intoroduce noise into the equation. I may be old fashion but I much prefer grain than noise. Grain can be used to convey mood noise looks live I hit pause on the old VHS.

 

I am excited about the "new revolution" as the author states but I am concerned about the future of photography. For those that create images just to see how sharp there lens can be or how colorful maybe digital is your ticket. Photography is not about sharpness its a means to convey emotion and to document the human expeirence. Both digital and film can be used to do so. So why do we feel it necessary to argue that my images are sharper or likewise usless discussions. Take pictures.

 

I can't believe I got suckered into another one of these.

DH

 

Thanks for the insight. This makes more sense to me now. My meter indicates an overexposure of 2 stops in straight ttl and the pressure plate is almost black so that would put it on zone 2 and overexpose by two stops to make it Zone 5 or 18% grey. I am teaking soem test shots in various mode this morning.

 

I rate NPS at 160. My last few shot I rated at 125 and got slightly better exposures For my test I will try rating at 100,125, and 160. For my 645 work I usually rate it at 160 without a problem. In studio or with the Sunpack 544 exposures are good but lack some shadow detail.

 

Thanks for all the help.

DH

 

I had someone hold my light meter while I stood roughly 6 feet away and snapped. She read the numbers to me off of the meter. I was using aperture priorty at 5.6.

 

In TTL 3D mode all shot were underexposed indicating around 4.0-4.5 (remember I have the camera set for 5.6 in A mode)

 

In Straight TTL the meter indicated between F11 sometimes F16 if I was really close.

 

I tried my 50 on just to see if it made a diffence and with the 50 the meter indicated F8 consistently.

 

Next I added one stop of exposure compensation in 3D matrix mode and finally the meter idicated 5.6 consistently with the 28-105mm. As Ellis pointed out all these numbers are pointless and the pre-flash may be additive in increasing the indicated meter reading.

 

I done this test with out film but I plan to tonight and document carefully each shot to see wich setting work the best. I spoke with another Nikon photographer and he said he also noticed the same problem and now he just adds 0.7 compensation all the time.

 

I suspect most people who don't notice the underexposure use film with a lot of latitude and therefore the film compensates. I use NPS and it getts very muddy with the least bit of underexposure, but when I use reala its not as noticable.

My 50 is a non-D my 28-105 is a D lens.

 

I am jugding by the proofs for my last three jobs ALL of witch (except for extreme closups) were underexposed. Shots with large areas of white are just as underexposed as shots with very little light areas for intsance the groomsman all wearing black is underexposed too.

 

I have never thought about the Pre flash being picked up by my flash meter. I know that I get good exposures wioth my Sunpack 544 and it read about 5.6 +/- .2 in when I test fire it with my asistant holding the flash meter. The Sb-28 in TTL mode is reading about 11-16 on the flash meter wich may be caused by the pre-flashes.

 

In matrix balanced fill mode if I dial in +1.0 stop it reads about 5.6 +/- .3 in various lighting.

 

I guess the only way to test it is to burn some film through it and see wich works best.

I have been using my N80 mounted to a stroboframe with a Sb-28 and

NC17 cord and 28-105 AFD for wedding candids. I keep getting

underexposed shot with this set up.

 

I have the flash set to TTL 3D matrix balanced mode and the camera is

set to matrix metering. I just check the camera and flash with my

Gossen multipro meter and have found that with these setting the

camera consistently underexposes by 1 stop.

 

Changing to straight TTL (not 3D balanced fill flash) yields an over

exposure of about two stops with either centerweighted or matrix

metering. When I mount the Nikon 50 1.8 it overexposes by one stop

in TTL mode. Whats going on here?

 

I have a few jobs lined up and I have to settle this immediatly. Is

this normal? Is something wrong with my camera or flash? I get

better reults with the Sunpack 544 on my Mamiya and its not TTL. Is

this a common SB-28 problem?

Pierre I don't quite understand do you have a lens listed on *bay? Or to sell if so e-mail me.