marlin_penton

<p>I work exclusively in jpeg. I always use thew same jpeg options settings and merely need to hit enter to proceed. Can I tell photoshop to always use these settings globally and not have to send up the options window EVERY time I make a change?<br>

Right now, if I run an action on several (often many like 100) images I have to prop up something on my keyboard to hit enter each time the jpeg option comes up. I have an entire photography studio relying on a stapler to keep the enter key depressed or I have to hit it myself each time.<br>

HELP!!! If I am ever at a convention and people see me do this I'm gonna get laughed at!!!</p>

<p>I've been playing around with the books that my wholesale club offers and am ready to find a lab that can print a decent bound book at a price point near $45. I need to be able to upload my own 10x10 or 8x10 layouts. Meaning full page layouts rather than just 4-4x6 or 2 5x7s. <br>

The whosaler's book cover is its weak link, but at sub $20 it opens up a market where a $65 book wont work. I just cant have some mom ask where did you get this, Sams?</p>

<p>Turn-around is critical as well.</p>

<p>I use several local and national labs and don't want to be tied to any one of them for every online sale that I make.<br>

I use Simplephoto.com. Sometimes I feel like a one-man-studio operation even though I have several shooters. I've been very impressed with their support. The phone support is so good that I usually just call if I need something done. They allow me to customize my store front so that it looks like you are not leaving my site to browse image galleries. If I need something changed they have helped me by doing it. I'll check the site the next day and wow, they got to my issue. And then its on to the next shoot or customer or baby or location or bridal retouch or... you get the point!<br>

They have different pricing plans from click and pay to unlimited posting.</p>

<p>Oh yeah, I just experimented with this for the first time: real b&w prints on rc paper from digital files. Really impressive. I thought that that was lost with my own lab during huricane Katrina which ripped the roof off of my lab. Ruined a nearly brand-new Wyng-Lynch model 5 c-41 film processor that would be as useful to me now as a lead balloon!</p>

 

<p>That's it Jack. The space bar did the trick that I was looking for. Thanks.<br>

Almost as good as CS2.</p>

<p>When I make an oval selection in CS2 on an image to make a dark vinyette around the subject, I can then move the selection around the image to position it where it needs to go.<br>

In CS4 (with the same factory defaults in place and the same "add to box" selection at the topof the tool pallette) the selection snaps to the side of the image and if I move it around with the same marquee tool, the selection snaps to the wall of the image. So when I reposition it, it has a straight edge instead of an oval edge. I cannot move the selection around and have to make sure that I get it right on the first try.<br>

Can I set up CS4 to act like CS2when using the marquee tool, or is this an "improvement" like getting rid of contact sheet II?</p>

 

<p>I'm trying to apply the same stroke to 15 layers in CS4. Can a batch type procedure make the same effect on all selectedlayers all at once?</p>

<p>Sorry for the ommission. This is for a 10x10wedding album. Each side has to be discrete. I am submitting 30-10x10s. My panos will be 10x10 next to each other.</p>

<p>Man, I am having trouble ligning up mypano crops after they come back from the lab. So far I've tried an action called Autocrop, but I think that I have an old buggy version, because it gives me the same results as manual cropping like so:<br>

I make a 20x10 at 250 dpi crop. Then I use the crop tool at 10x10 (still 250 dpi) and crop the left side and rename it then undo the crop and crop the right side and rename it. It seems like this should work, but they do not line up in the print. ARG!<br>

Any ideas? CS4 & waiting on lightroom still.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>My prints from my lab are a little too contrasty. Fuji frontier 3 series machine auto correct off. They look fine on my laptop lcd and a little dark on my huey balanced crt. I need to lower the contrast of the camera a Canon 5d. <br>

How should I begin? Do I need to test like crazy or is there a generally proper way to set one up?<br>

We shoot it as manually as possible in a studio setting. Custom white balance off a expo disc.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just upgraded from cs2 to cs4. Quick question. Where are the contactsheet functions located? Used to be under automate.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks for the info, John. That will help me along quite well!</p>

<p>A friend in the real estate biz has asked if I could shoot some 360 virtual tours of his properties for him. I shoot weddings with a Canon 40d and senior portraits in my studio with a 5d. The widest lens that I have si a 19-35mm. I've been in the market for a wider lens for a few high impact shots of churches. My budget is severly pinched, so L series is out. Any lens ideas? Should it be fixed vs. zoom?</p>

<p>I've got a good Bogen tripod and pan tilt head with spirit levels that used to hold my RB.</p>

<p>What kind of software am I not going to loose my shirt or get ripped off by. I am looking to shoot and scoot. Here's your tour on disk. </p>

<p>A client recenltly brought in a sepia toned photo to see if we could match it's style in a new photo shoot. It came from an outfit that sets up a shoot at our local Sam's club. It looked better than the sepia action that I have been using. It had a nice sepia undertone to begin with then a selective colorization of the clothing at a reduced strength.</p>

<p>I can come close by sepia toning with my canned action and using the history brush at 30% strength, paint back the color a little. The result is sellable, but the damn Sam's thing looks better because it is contrast is more like the original. Mine looks too washed out and processed.</p>

<p>Please help me compete with the big boys!</p><div></div>

<p>can a feathered selection be changed after the selection is committed?</p>

<p>My trusty Lacie Blue CRT is getting ready to leave me. I'm going to miss her, but not whacking the side every now and again to wake her up!</p>

<p>So I'm on the search for my best value in a monitor. I suppose that I'm relagated to LCD as opposed to CRT, unless I buy used.</p>

<p>What's your favorite reasonably priced monitor? Any ones or manufracturers to avoid? I know that bigger is better, but in this economy I'll be just fine in the 17" range.</p>

<p>I need a slideshow software that is cheap, easy and does not have a subscription fee like Animoto. I tend to be a do-it-yourselfer and I want to keep busy in this economic atomsphere. Sounds like my boss is looking!</p>

<p>Any thoughts???</p>

<p>I've got a couple of packs in the fridge. In the old blue boxes behind the ice cream. One day I'll maybe show off my old sx-70 to my grandkids! Don't miss 690 for passports though. Yuck.</p>

<p>Print it huge. Most of my studio has a mismatch collection of 20x24s and 20x30s. Just for good measure I have always displayed a 30x40 framed canvas. I like it and it pulls double duty as a hole in the wall cover upper!<br>

I am in the process of upscaling my look by displaying 30x40s mounted on gator board and attached to the wall with blocks about 3" thick and lit from spots in adjustable cans above to cast a drop shadow on the wall.<br>

The image looks reasonably sharp and retouched by little ole me, and that aint no great shakes, because I wear too many damn hats, if you feel me. I've had the same image in a 20x24 frame for over a year and it gets comments like "I like that" and such. But today a new customer saw it and said "Wow!" Folks, I had'nt heard that in a while and I want to hear more of it. <br>

Anyway, I'm new here to your forum, so bear with me until I figure out what's what.<br>

In the meantime, grab a cup of coffee. We gotta talk.</p>

 

<p>Second generation full-time professional wedding photographer and I tend to forget how cool that is. It's been a comfortable way to make a living down here in the south. Now I gotta start thinking like a newcomer after 20 years of pro-shooting. <br>

So I'm giving my studio an overhaul in this uncertain economic environment. I've got little to no budget to work with, so I'm starting by educating myself about my business and my craft. I've got a lot to work with though, including a nice little retail studio. My online precence is weak and needs to change. I'll get there. I want to up the sophistication level from lame to better than what I got right now!<br>

If I'm posting in the wrong forum, please have mercy on me. I'll find my way.<br>

Grab a cup of coffee because we gotta talk.</p>

<p>I shoot Canon 40D at weddings with a 550EX on camera with a 580EZ on a light stand fired by an old Quantum radio slave. The slave light will power off after about two minutes if left alone. I shoot all manual and somtimes I can't physically get to my second light to re-awake it. This could blow several key shots all in succession.<br>

Can I put a Canon 580E series flash 'on' forever? Or at least longer than the 120 count that I have to worry about now? I have to keep test poping it to keep it up while in church. That sounded funny!<br>

I SURVIVED Mardi Gras 2009 in New Orleans. It was a blast, if your interested in that sort of stuff!</p>

<p> </p>