marlin_penton

<p>I process my CR2 files to make the best prints on my labs Fuji Frontier machine. I am then making Animoto slideshows from the jpegs which are run through an action in CS4 to resize them to around 1200x800. I am linking one of them. Do the images look too light/dark? I'm having trouble evaluating them properly. Please tell me what you think.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Marlin<br>

http://animoto.com/play/11vbfsdgBy8MwTKYF4iehQ</p>

 

<p>I have a pro subscription to Animoto and I love it. However I am being asked by my local community to compose a five minute slideshow for them that will include a video segment. Animoto works with the music that you choose to do the segways, so its limited to one non-looping song. The song that they will choose will have to be five minutes long or else it wont work with Animoto. I believe that they will want to get more specific with the blends and such and I will need a more interactive service for my needs.<br>

Maybe I should take the plunge and make it with Lightroom? What is the learning curve? Is it reasonable for me to be able to make a sellable slideshow right out of the gate with Lightroom? I shoot Raw and process my own DNG files everyday in my photography studio, so I should be able to make it happen in Lightroom with a reasonable amount of time. Is this a option for me?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I was shooting away at a wedding last night on my Canon 40D loaded with a brand new Kingston elite pro 133X 8G cf card, when after a lens swap, the lcd read "no images" after about 100 RAW images. After the initial panic, I removed the card and finnished on another card. Talk about over shooting a job after that point! <br>

So I now need to recover these images. I have a photo rescue software that will only work on 1G cards.<br>

Who makes the recovery software that I need? Should I go back to Kingston for recovery? What do you think?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm shooting a 7d and post processing the RAW files in CS4. I've got the camera set up in Adobe RGB and am still waiting on the prints from the lab of a outdoor wedding formal session to determine wheather or not I continue in this space. I also had the picture style set to a modified neutral picture style: sharpness:+2, contrast +1, saturation +1, color tone 0. <br>

How do you set yours and does it really if post producing raw?</p>

 

<p>I just changed the default setting in Windows to operate in Adobe 1998 and I can now see the contrastin photoshop. Good! I'm still working in sRGB in CS4. </p>

<p>I want to add a glamour type background to my work. I want to shoot a grey seemless and add color behind the subject with a gel.<br>

What shade of grey do I need? My local distributer says they have light and dark grey. I like the idea of the dark grey, because I like low key vignetting in portraits, but will I still be able to see the color much? <br>

B&H has charcoal #54 that looks darker that 18%, fashion grey #56 that looks 18% and grey tint #57 that looks lighter than 18%. Which direction should I go? Can I punch light from a white lightning 800 through a gel and modifer and still be able to control the amount of color on the dark gray?<br>

By the way, gray being neutral, will all colors work or do some not respond to this kind of thing?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>I'm trying to close the loops in my workflow in terms of color and am just noticing (thanks to a new LCD) that my jprg images look very different when viewed on the Windows photo viewer versus the way they look opened in CS4.<br>

My output from my lab's Fuji Frontier 370 looks very similar to what I see in the viewer: darker and contrastier than how I see them in CS4. This makes my printing tasks very difficult. Right now I have the monitor adjusted to <em>Try </em>to compensate, but the print is still going to look like the viewers version.<br>

How can I work properly with this, do I make it perfect in CS4 and then over-adjust it as part of an action? That can't be good. What am I missing?<br>

-Marlin</p>

<p>Alright, I've got a profile for my local lab's Frontier370 properly working on CS4 because I can toggle it on and off with cntl Y. What's next, do I need to save each file that I wish to print on this machine? Or do I need to set up photoshop to work in it all of the time? <br>

I'm new to color management and I can't seem to close the loop yet, but I'm gaining on it. <br>

Thanks.<br>

Marlin</p>

<p>Hey,<br>

I need to create an action that I can batch large numbers of images that I can drop a studio watermark and the image's file name on the front of the image. Working in CS4 now.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have been processing work in CS4 on a vista laptop and then importing the jpegs into CS2 on an old desktop that has CS2 working in XP. The images look differently when viewed on the different machines for an obvious reason the desktop has a CRT. I always thought that it was because of the monitor, but could it be really bad to process RAW files into jpegs on the laptop running Vista and CS4 and then make contact sheets in CS2 from those jpegs? Sounds bad now that I think about it. My work is inconsistent. <br>

The one thing that I need now is the ability to make contact sheets like in CS2.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hey guys,</p>

<p>I'm comparing two pc combinations for a 64 bit system:</p>

<p>i5-750 processor (8mb cache 2.66 ghz) with 8GB SDRAM at 133mhz<br>

OR<br>

i7-860 (8mb cache 2.8ghz) with 3GB SDRAM at 133mhz</p>

<p>No, these are not mac choices, sorry for misspellings and yes, I'm at my budget.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hey everyone,<br>

Take a look at the image that is posted and give me some ideas on how to proceed with file prep. I am doing the work for a daycare photog that is swamped right now with bunny photos. They will be printed on Fuji crystal archive on a fuji frontier 370. I do not have a profile for this printer.<br>

I am trying to match the image that the photographer sees on the camera, in terms of contrast, color and the like. A test print from the file as is, yeilded a dull dark image. The histogram in CS4 indiactes a gap in the highlight side. Even I know how to fix that with levels and since all of the images (about 200) are nearly the same exposure, I'll need to do some adjusting for varying skin tones.<br>

Thanks for looking! </p>

<div></div>

<p>Christine,<br>

Thanks so much for taking the time to post your idea. I had not thought of that and I have a selphy for passport photos sitting right here in my studio.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm a portrait studio looking for a boost from my home team's recent success. What would you do? We're trying to promote a black full-length back-lit background look that looks nice with Saint's black and gold. <br>

I'm open to runnin and gunning around town as well. <em>Its hard out here for a photog</em>. </p>

<p>Thanks yall.</p>

 

<p>I realize that there are many ways to accomplish the same tasks in PS (CS2&CS4).<br>

I now know that the brightness/contrast feature is to be avoided, but what is the best method for getting beautiful full tone images without any weird clipping of pixels.<br>

I have used levels and curves and have also used a combination of the different blend modes. For example ctrl j and then switching the blend mode to screen and then varying the amount of opacity which brightens the highlights thereby lightening the image. Don't forget to flatten.<br>

Often times with this method, I can not get the histogram to look like it should at optimal viewing. In other words, after I have lightened a bride's dancing candid using the above method and flatten it, when I open levels it can show a gap on the highlight side of the histogram. In some situations closing this gap with levels will blow out the dress white.<br>

So when I'm done, I have a good looking image with a wired histogram. <br>

Should I avoid this method? What's best most of the time?</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>I have been with SimplePhoto for over 4 years and have no complaints. Seems like you had a bad experience with the customer service. I think they have great support, they are always attentive to my needs and I always get a quick response back whether by phone or email. I have never had any problems using the PrintShop, my customers are always very pleased with how their prints turn out. I think its rocking that I can place my orders wherever I want and how I want. Some of my orders I even print at my studio! The bottom line for me is that I have a system customized for me by a company I can trust.</p>

<p>I have a 80 Gig drive and 8.6 gig is dedicated to a recovery system on a separate partition. I have never had this feature on any computer and am surviving just fine. I could really use the space!</p>

<p>What do you think?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Marlin</p>

<p>I am looking for ideas for aholiday keepsake for my family sessions. Maybe an ornament or something. Cost of the item is a consideration. We are a volume based operation, yet still want to do something nice.</p>

<p>I have many folders full of actions and one of em's got my f2 key. I cant remember where the action is and was wondering how can I see the short cut key'd actions all at once. Does such a thing exist?</p>

<p>here is what I am trying to make.</p><div></div>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I need to make a college for a daycare center with 50 kids. Before I go running and gunning trying to do it all manually, does anybody have any suggestions for a canned action or something. With the profit margin where it is, budget is zero, btw.<br>

Thanks a bunch!<br>

-Marlin</p>

<p>There is an outfit in my area that does real estate photography. An area that I want to compete in. They offer a pole mount shot for an extra fee that looks like it may have been shot at about 20-30 feet high. I found a very nice one for about 1200 bucks. Not in the budget. <br>

Before I go on inventing some sort of pole mounted tripod head contraption, does anyone have an thoughts on the subject? <br>

My latest idea involves some pvc pipes that slide into one another to make up the height. How to get that to work up and down escapes me. It has to fit in a car. I figure that I can use the self timer to shoot or make some sort of extension for the wired remote trigger that I use for time exposures and through trial and error, compose and expose the shot. Try that with film!<br>

I've got better than average access to a decent workshop. What do you think?</p>

<p>Hey,<br>

I'm working on a wedding album that I have'nt opened in two months. When I prepped the files for density in CS4 for web posting, they look like I intend. Months later and I need to print a complete set for a proof album. Many look way too dark. <br>

The images have been opened and viewed many times, but closed without a save, for sure. Could the density or anything else drift in this circumstance? <br>

OR could my perception be at fault? Help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hey yall,<br>

I've created alot of buzz by showing Animoto videos of weddings. They are now requesting dvd copies and I want to buy the $250 pro subscription from Animoto, but I don't know what to charge for them. What do you charge?</p>

<p>CS4. I wonder if I am alone with this issue. What can I possibly be missing?</p>