juan_c.

<p>Hi<br>

First post to the Pentax forum. My daughter (aged 9) has a Pentax MZ-50 and just the basic 35-80 kit lens. She has been wanting a lens for a while. Given that she is 9, I don't to go crazy yet with lenses. Enter the CP-9. Found it for sale locally for a really good price and it comes with a 28-80 and a 70-300mm lens. Anyway, I did a little research, and the CP-9 is K-mount. Now, I know that all K-mount lenses will mount and work on the camera. What I am not clear on is if the lenses will meter and autofocus on the MZ-50. I know the Pentax has a "crippled", so I don't know whether it would affect or not. My daughter is keen on autofocus, though. I can't interest her much on manual focus.... So I guess I am asking: will an AF lens from a CP-9 AF on the MZ-50?</p>

<p>Thanks!!</p>

<p>If anything, I'm surprised there isn't an AF-S 50mm 1.8 at all. I mean, the lens is still really good. All they would need to do is add the motor in it. Just update the mechanicals and leave the glass alone to save money. All we have is the AF-D version that AF's with the camera motor, and sadly the motored cameras are a bit more on the high end cameras. </p>

<p>Hi<br>

I have a Minolta 320X flash that I wanna use on my SRT101. I used it on my X570 well enough, but now since it is dead, I wanna use it here. The catch is, of course, the 101 doesn't have a hot shoe. All it has is the sync cable plug. The flash itself has either a front 3 prong plug that I suppose would go to the camera. It also has smaller plug/hole on the right side (if looking from the front of the flash)--guessing this is for a normal sync cable? Does anyone know what kind of cable it takes? I figure the front plug of the flash is a proprietary cable, but I didn't see it on the 'bay. Plus it probably costs a lot more... Any help would be welcome. I've never had to deal with sync cables, so this is really new to me:o( <br>

Thanks!! </p>

<p>I got an SRT 101 for Father's day, and I am LOVING it!! I started with an XG-1, then an X-570, and finally an XG-M, but they have all died horrible shutter deaths. So far, this 101 seems a lot more sturdy than the electronic ones. Only thing the 570 had better was the viewing screen (one of the best I have had the pleasure of using!). But I love how back to basics the 101 is. I miss the split image focusing thingie, but I have gotten used to it. It also seems to meter a bit better than the electronic ones. Maybe it is just me, but i have an easier time getting exposures with this camera than I did with the newer ones....</p>

<p>I posted this on the Classic forum, but I don't know if you got it:<br>

Get the Wein Hotshoe to Hotshoe adapter. I use a 320X on my Nikon D40, and it works perfectly. The adapter reduces the voltage from the flash (around 12 or 13 volts) to 6V. This is enough to work on a Nikon digital camera. It also has the extra minor bonus of raising the flash a bit higher, so it helps reduce red eye a little. It also has a PC socket built in, too. A GREAT thing for a camera without one ;o) <br /> Oh the adapter works on all flashes that actually fit the standard hot shoe.</p>

<p>To Andrew:<br>

Get the Wein Hotshoe to Hotshoe adapter. I use a 320X on my Nikon D40, and it works perfectly. The adapter reduces the voltage from the flash (around 12 or 13 volts) to 6V. This is enough to work on a Nikon digital camera. It also has the extra minor bonus of raising the flash a bit higher, so it helps reduce red eye a little. It also has a PC socket built in, too. A GREAT thing for a camera without one ;o) <br>

Oh the adapter works on all flashes that actually fit the standard hot shoe. </p>

<p>Been a while since I used mine. To me it seemed like a really sharp lens, and for the bargain price, I'm not one to complain. Nowadays I use a Vivitar 24mm 2.8 for my wide angle needs, but I shold get that Rokkor back out again...<br>

<a title="IMG48004 by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4495804680/"></a><a title="IMG48004 by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4495804680/"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2710/4495804680_30a780734f_z.jpg" alt="IMG48004" width="640" height="416" /></a><br>

Please ignore the kids that decided to get in the pic at the last moment, lol.</p>

<p>Maybe a new 50 f1.8? A basic lens that is light, fairly useful, and hopefully fairly cheap (maybe $50 over the current price of the af-d version). I mean, don't even mess with the glass, just add the AF-S components (maybe retool the plastic body to fit it all). I love my AF-D one and I use it on the D40, but I would like to have autofocus from time to time on it. A good "first non-kit-lens" that won't break the bank. In theory, it shouldn't cost them a whole lot to make, since keeping the same glass/optical formula saves them a lot in research costs. </p>

<p>Kent: Take up spool is the one the film winds to while taking the pics, right? Because it seems to have one built in already. The side with the wind crank (where I assume the film goes) doesn't have anything. Yes, this is a 6x6. The opening is a square. </p>

<p>Finding info on the camera is hard, lol. Not that there isn't any, but there are soooo many variants! I am loving it, though. It is a lot lighter than I thought it would be. Less than my Minolta XGM with MD1...</p>

<p>Ok, after mulling it over... I went back and got the camera. I DID figure out how to fire the shutter, though! Seems to be alright, though the slower shutter speeds seem a little slow. Cleaned up pretty nice, though the front lens has a little bit of haze on it. <br>

<a title="DSC_5221 by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4883884287/"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4883884287_2d729936ae.jpg" alt="DSC_5221" width="364" height="500" /></a><br>

Next I need to learn how to focus with the thing....<br>

I was mistaken, though. It doesnt say "Ikonta", just "Ikon". On the back door, it says "Zeiss Ikon, B2 x 6x9". I'm assuming that is the size of the negative? Camera comes with a Novar-Anastigmat 75mm 1:24,5 lens. That's close to a normal lens, right? I do know it uses 120 roll film. </p>

<p>I'll be looking at Butkus' site for a manual. Help me get started on this little beauty ♥</p>

<p>There were two levers in the front of the camera: one with a red dot and one on top (silver/metal color). And no, I didn't know I had to cock it, lol. The red one when cocked gave a clicking/ticking sounds like the self timer in 35mm cameras. The top one, when cocked, didn't seem to do anything. I did wind the wind knob until it showed a red dot. After pressing the shutter, it wouldn't do anything, and then I'd rewind again. </p>

<p>This is my first folder, so I have NO idea what to expect, lol. </p>

<p>Hi<br>

Went to the antique mall I usually troll for camera stuff, and found this old folder camera. Sadly, all I got was this crappy pic from my cell phone. I remember it says Zeiss Ikonta, made in Germany, and on the lens, it said "Klio", and "Anastigmat". I figured out most of the functions, but unless there is some trick to it, I couldn't get the shutter to fire. Everything on the camera (besides the musty smell) was OK on the camera. Body was in good shape, bellows was light proof. I didn't get it, but it only being $12, I'm half tempted to go back and get it. The leather case for it was in near mint shape, which I thought was impressive. <br>

Is there a trick to fire the shutter? Assuming the shutter is stuck, is it an easy-ish repair?</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

<a title="!cid__11-08-10_112 by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4883139556/"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4883139556_d4bfb2d24d.jpg" alt="!cid__11-08-10_112" width="500" height="375" /></a> </p>

<p>Kinda related: I have a 24mm 2.8 Vivitar lens (Tokina built) that has the same double aperture. Just found out about the removable mount a few hours ago during a hike. Ended up removing the mount and checking the lens out, lol. But, is it possible to buy the mount separately? I have it in Minolta mount, but it would be cool to be able to mount it on my Nikon, though. </p>

<p>I've been using a 135mm Minolta Rokkor PF for a while now. Probably one of the sharpest lenses I have for the Minoltas I have. It is one of the ones with a built in stop down lever on it. Built like a tank, and equally as heavy. I use it mostly on my XG-M with MD-1 motor drive. Seems like it balances better that way in my hands. <br>

Pics are from scanned prints. Don't have a way to scan negatives yet :o(<br>

<a title="12157_205023255933_678680933_4146860_4442215_n by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4497112736/"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4497112736_87263d76a4.jpg" alt="12157_205023255933_678680933_4146860_4442215_n" width="500" height="336" /></a></p>

<p><a title="12157_205023245933_678680933_4146858_6474867_n by Valkyrie_VF2X, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/38387748@N00/4496477161/"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4496477161_16aac22052.jpg" alt="12157_205023245933_678680933_4146858_6474867_n" width="500" height="338" /></a><br>

I'd use it a bit more if I could focus closer with it. Got stuck with it in an aquarium once, and it was really hard to get any pics of the exhibits without standing about 5 feet away, lol. </p>

<p>Hi<br>

I have what is probably a dumb question, but it's kinda leaving me scratching my head. On a 35mm negative frame, what is the correct frame number? I know it is the one directly under the frame. But, what is the correct one if there are two under the frame? They are both about the same distance from either end of the frame. I'm getting some reprints, and I don't wanna pick the wrong number. Personally, I think it is the one on the left of the frame (the earlier number of the two; like if 0A and 1 are under the frame, pick 0A). <br>

I honestly would love to know. Most of the time it is pretty clear, but in this particular row, all the frames are between numbers...</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Maybe you can get a parts camera? XG-M's aren't exactly expensive. Mine (my current main camera) I got for $1+shipping, and it was in pristine condition. I'm sure you can find some in good shape for pennies on the dollar. As far as interchangeable screens, that I don't know. I'd love to know, though, if the screens from the X-700/X-500 could be used. Kinda interested in trying out that focusing screen for the faster lenses...</p>

<p>I am getting another camera after this. I love the thing, but two shutter repairs is far more than I am willing to spend on it. I'll just look at it from now on. Since we are on the subject, what would cause a weak second shutter spring to go bad? Is it just from being so much, or is there something else at work? I'm just curious. How the thing works fascinates me. Last time I took it in they said it was a bad second spring that was causing it, and that it would only get worse and worse the more it was used. At that point, 1000 and 500 were toast.</p>

<p>I wanna say it is the second curtain. If looking at the back of the camera, it is the one on the left that either doesn't move or doesn't move fast enough. Last time it happened (before I got it fixed), it did the same thing at 1000 and 500. From what I understand, it may be a spring going bad, but I'm no expert.</p>

<p>Would batteries really do that? Not doubting you or anything, but I would think that would affect all shutter speeds, not just the fastest. I'll go get some more batteries later today and give it a check, though :o)</p>

<p>Hi <br /> <br />I have a Minolta X-570 that I love. Problem is that the shutter is going bad. Just developed some film, and noticed that one of the curtains was dragging. Sure enough, I just checked, and at 1/1000, the shutter doesnt open up all the way. At 500 and below, it works fine. The sad thing is that this is the SECOND time this happens to the camera. It already had been sent out to get taken care off about 3 or 4 months ago, but it is starting up again. Are these cameras known for shutter problems? And I am pretty sure it isn't the dreaded capacitor problem. <br /> <br />Mostly wanna know if i need to toss it and get a new one, or if there is hope for it... <br /> <br />Thanks</p>

<p>I had a problem like that for my Minolta X-570. Turned out one of the springs for the shutter (horizontal, cloth) was dragging or going bad. It would leave the right side of the picture under exposed. Seemed to happen a lot with shutter speeds of 250 and higher. By the time the camera got fixed, 1000 was completely useless. </p>

<p>Hi<br>

Been shooting a bit of film lately. Been rather enjoying it, though I mostly shoot BW. I've been interested in shooting some color as well, but I'm not sure what is a good all around color film. Since this is a broad question, I'll let you know that I shoot a bit of everything (people, nature, night, architecture, landscapes, etc etc). I think I'd prefer something with really good sharpness, and fairly accurate color reproduction. <br>

I'd love to hear any suggestions you might have. I know it comes down to personal decision, but I'd like a good starting point. The only color I have shot with has been Kodak 200-800, and assorted Fuji 100-800 stuff.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Great cameras. I have its younger but arguably better sibling (the X-570), but it feels very solid in the hands. Add in a Motor Drive 1, and its handling is superb. For the prices, you are getting a camera that can hang in there rather well with pro level cameras. They did have interchangeable screens, too, so that is another plus. <br>

Pretty much, they are killer bargains:o)</p>

<p>Omg!! I was just in that town last weekend!! If I had known, I'd have run over there in a flash. Thanks for the info!</p>

<p>If you are referring to the little window that lets you see the aperture on the lens, there is an easy fix. Remove the body panel that says MINOLTA-- 2 screws. The little window is held by a little clip. Try and line it up to where you see the numbers in the viewfinder. If needed, you might use a little piece of paper or a shim to get it to the correct height. Once you have it where you want it, put the panel back on. Seriously, it is a VERY simple fix. </p>