max_barstow

<p>Ahh, mad as it sounds, I really don't want any sort of metering. Think it's a good idea to learn what's appropriate in different lighting myself rather than let a machine tell me what's right. Also, there is something in me that really would just LIKE to have one.</p>

<p>I'm definitely not getting anything before the IIIc, shan't budge on that one. Could you give me the web address of these Leica repair sites?</p>

<p>And I'll give the Voigtlander R a look, but I'm guessing that a) it won't be nearly as neat as a III with a collapsible 50mm b) harder to get repairs. But I'll look it up.</p>

<p>Oh, forgot to mention, why do some IIIs have a red shutter?</p>

<p>I know just the place you mean Arthur, Museum Street is crammed with camera shops. I've already checked their website, and they've got a couple of IIIGs, but they're about 700 or so, which is way out of my range.</p>

<p>Thanks David, but I really would prefer a C or later, considering how old these things are, any supposed extra build quality strikes me as important. I'd not thought of Portobello Market. I'll definitely give that a look, just the kind of place you might strike a real bargain, though I'd really rather be buying from a retailer where I feel more sure that the camera/lens I'm getting is in full working order.<br>

Thanks for all the advice/help.<br>

Alan, do they often get Fs in at that sort of price? I can't actually do the purchase for a couple of months and I'd be quite annoyed if this meant I was losing a great bargain.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the help</p>

<p>Ahh, now that makes sense. I can't really imagine why they'd change it with the Ms so that they were in the same finder, but hey.</p>

<p>Alan, why the IIIb in particular? Weren't they less tough before the c?</p>

<p>Thanks for the article and all the help :)<br>

One thing I'm not getting, is why you can't just use the rangefinder view as a viewfinder as well? Eh?</p>

<p>I know I'll only ever want the one 50mm collapsible elmar for this camera, and I really can't afford a g, but I'll see about the f. I would rather have one than a c.<br>

If I can't find a coated one, won't a UV filter do the job instead?</p>

<p>Thanks for the MW recommendation, they have funny pricing, but a IIIf, which looks in good condition, for 179quid!!</p>

<p>Though I can't afford an M leica, and am quite interested to try a Barnack one anyway, what would I get with something like an M3 which I wouldn't with this? Is it really THAT much better?</p>

<p>Flash doesn't matter to me, so that's no issue.</p>

<p>Hiya,</p>

<p>I want to get a very compact, discreet, completely manual camera and having done a little research, I think the best thing for me would be a Leica IIIc with a 50mm Elmar f3.5 lens. The things I'm a tad unsure about are:</p>

<ul>

<li>Is a IIIf really worth the extra money?</li>

<li>Does the red dial IIIf have a better/more durable shutter?</li>

<li>What about Contax/other rangefinders of that era?</li>

<li>And finally, are there any really annoying things about the IIIc which might put me off?</li>

</ul>

<p>If anyone posting here lives in England, advice as to where I could a good deal would also be appreciated.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

 

<p>This is something which has had me confused. The place where I got all my chemicals, developing tank etc. said that it only mattered what temperature the developer went in at, not what its constant temperature was.<br>

Surely the temperature of the water (in both the presoak and the tray) will also change? Isn't there some very accurate way of controlling this? Or does it not really matter too much?</p>

<p>Thanks so much for all the help, really is useful :)</p>

<p>I presume a stop is one bar on a light-meter?</p>

<p>How can you work out (roughly) how much developing time to add as ISO goes up (lets say every 100) to get a similiar look to that which you get at 400? That's probably badly phrased...<br>

And do you get more grain if you change the ISO so it's higher?</p>

<p>Sorry, what's a one-shot use developer?</p>

<p>My bottle doesn't have times for HP5 at 1+50, only at 1+25.</p>

<p>When you rate a film's ASA differently to the factory default, if you set it higher, that doesn't actually change the film in any way, but the metering instead?<br>

And what's the point of downrating, getting longer exposures? Couldn't you just over-expose it at 400 ASA?</p>

<p>What is the point of presoaking film? Also, on that matter, the water from the taps has chemical residues in it, so is that an issue?</p>

<p>I rather like the grain I'm getting with the HP5 and Rodinal. It's kind of soft, quite a bit of it.<br>

Would you get less grain at 1:50? Also, if you're halving the amount of developer in relation to water, does that mean you'll need to double the developing time, or is it not so simple?</p>

<p>Okay. So if I do HP5 for 6mins in Rodinal 1+25, constant agitation for 1 min, then 10 secs in every 30 secs after that, is that gonna be a lot of development or what? Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>So if you didn't agitate you'd get a very contrasty image?<br>

And how do people work out what kinds of agitation give certain results?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Have been developing my films for a few months now, and I'm finally getting some results which I quite like (using HP5+ and Rodinal), but I don't really understand what the importance of agitation is, other than for making sure you get an evenly developed film.<br>

What I'm getting at, is why do people bother with different agitation methods, or why couldn't you just shake the canister vigorously for the whole developement time?<br>

Thanks</p>