ronnie_pettit2

<p>I made a post on the apug forum about my gaoersi 6x12 experience...<br>

here is a link to the post. http://www.apug.org/forums/forum186/51267-gaoersi-6x12-experience.html#post1244918</p>

<p> for what it is worth.... i regularly use the 7ii with a 43mm lens in low light....well pretty low light with pan F50 rated at 25 or delta 100 rated at 50 and shoot at f16 or f22, both of which put th exposure outside the meter reading display capablility. normally my favorite conditions will call for a 1 or 2 minute exposure without adjustment for reciprocity failure.<br>

what i do is leave the ISO as i choose to rate it, then open the aperature until i get a meter reading of 1sec. then as i stop back down to f16 or f22 i do the easy math in my head. nice and simple. as for metering i use the in camers meter with the 43mm lens like a spot meter.<img src="http://www.ronniepettit.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/jones-509-201.jpg" alt="" width="656" height="836" /></p>

<p>ya know? i've been eyeballin' the 110 macro for a long time. but...being an f/4.5 keeps me hesitant because i have been wanting a faster lens for more available light handheld people/documentary type work. and...at around 100 bucks for the 80 f/2.8 i keep telling myself it's a no brainer. esp since i have been looking at TLR's lately. ah...so much stuff so little time. i will say that aside from the 65, the 180mm lens is the best purchase of all. most people say the 150 is the portrait lens...but i say no way the 180 focuses closer than the 150 and is perfect for portraits. groups?...maybe not but sinlges and doubles and tight family shots...yes way. i also owned a 135 for a while before i let the pawn shop have it..and i liked it for groups too. anyhow...back to the topic, the 40ps is a keeper, amybe not the best architecture AND people lens but i like mine.</p>

<p>to be fair, after thinking about it-and looking closer at the pics posted o my site currently, i will say that most of the shots on my website done with the Bronica 40PS were handheld and without MLU. I have used it with tripod and MLU many times, but i think there may only be one or two examples posted. I don't mean to put down that lens at all. i love it. I'd like to get my hands on the 35mm fisheye. maybe i am a little skewed since i started using the mamiya 7 with the 43mm, that thing is just magic. so please don't take what i said as any kind of test or, in retrospect, a fair comparison. the real reason i started using the mamiya in the woods was the horizontal format worked better for getting wide angles and not including toooo much sky in the mountains. i know i am not getting rid of my bronica 40 or 65 or 180 for that matter. with prices so nice i want to pick up a 80/f2.8</p>

<p>I have an SQ-A and a 40 PS. I bought the lens a few years back when used prices were over 900 dollars...doh! I have used it quite a bit, mostly for landscapes. I would say that the edge to edge sharpness is good but not great. The 43mm lens on my Mamiya 7 blows it away. But...being able to get very close with the Bronica means I can do things i cannot with other wide angle medium format set-ups. I never bothered to put a filter on it due to the cost of buying a 95mm filter. You can look at two galleries on my website for some examples if you like. one is skateboarding shots, handheld at about 1/60 or 1/125th with a small fill flash. The other gallery is a mix of nature shots...all the "square" frames were from the Bronica 40mm. all the "rectangular" images were with the Mamiya 43mm.<br>

<a href="http://www.ronniepettit.com/?p=2019">http://www.ronniepettit.com/?p=2019</a><br>

<a href="http://www.ronniepettit.com/?p=2191">http://www.ronniepettit.com/?p=2191</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.ronniepettit.com">www.ronniepettit.com</a></p>

<p>that's what i'm afraid of. i bought the 7II new. and i do have an old school speedotron studio light set, but i have always used a wein safe sync on it...but i have also put an old vivitar 283 on my mamiya once. man, if i fried the circuit, i'm gunna be pissed. good thing i almost always only use it for landscape work.</p>

<p>the shutter fires fine and the light meter works fine. there is just no power going throught the flash pc sync or the hotshoe</p>

<p>thanks for that idea. i cleaned the contacts. still does not fire. my next trick will be to waist some film and load a roll to see if there is something i don't know about it needing film loaded to fire the flash sync. aarrrg.</p>

<p>thanks for that idea. i cleaned the contacts. still does not fire. my next trick will be to waist some film and load a roll to see if there is something i don't know about it needing film loaded to fire the flash sync. aarrrg.</p>

<p>yes. i confirmed the flash and cords on other cameras. i know i have used this 7II with a pc cord in the past...but I also rememeber it not firing a flash from the hotshoe and me thinking it was the flash, or that it didn't match up to the hotshoe connection on the mamiya. i hope i didn't fry the dang thing with a vivitar 283 or something.</p>

<p>my vote would be for the mamiya 7II 43mm lens for landscape...and for portraits i really like the PS 180mm Bronica on the SQAi. the mamiya is just wow. and the 180 bronica will focus close enough to allow for tight head shots and allow for great background separation.</p><div></div>

<p>My Mamiya 7II will not fire flash either from the hot shoe or a PC cord. Anyone heard of this issue? No film in camera but using mulit-exposure button to cock and fire shutter. The shutter and meter work fine, just no flash? any ideas?<br>

thanks<br>

ronnie pettit<br>

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<p>man, seeing so many different combinations can make your head spin and confidence weak. i sue ilford delta 100 @50 or pan f+ @25 and develop in ddx or perceptol. but recently i used some d-76 thinking i was skimping because i was out of ddx and,well...we used d-76 in college over 20 years ago...can't be any good...hahaha. i was very surprised, especially with a roll of fp4.<br />but, shooting the way i do, in deeps woods, almost all white water, waiting for "crappy wather" but good soft light...i really need to explore stand development.<p>

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<p>i don't normally shoot sports, but got the chance to hang out with kids at the skate park. used a bronica sqa and 40mm lens, small fill flash and delta 100 film.</p>

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<p>not sure if i can add anything to this of much value. i have the 7 with a 43. i also have a crown graphic. i don't have a hich quality lens for the crown and don't think i could get a lens wide enough on to suit me in the tight places i shoot. but, every time i backpack the mamiya 7..or i should say every time i make a print, after backpacking the mamiya, i am please.<br>

here is one with the 43mm lens at f/16, exp was ....about 1 minute.</p>

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<p>not sure if i can add anything to this of much value. i have the 7 with a 43. i also have a crown graphic. i don't have a hich quality lens for the crown and don't think i could get a lens wide enough on to suit me in the tight places i shoot. but, every time i backpack the mamiya 7..or i should say every time i make a print, after backpacking the mamiya, i am please.<br>

here is one with the 43mm lens at f/16, exp was ....about 1 minute.</p>

 

<p>i will say i bought the 180 over the 150 simply becasue of close focus distance. doing portraits in a limited space can be an issue and being able to fill the frame with a face is an issue for the 150. i have a 65mm for groups or full body. i used to have a 135 which was ok but being able get close this this photo was worth more money. i suspect others that have it agree and i know i'm not selling mine and if others agree they may be holding on to them as well.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.ronniepettit.com">www.ronniepettit.com</a></p>

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<p>i say try it lower. i sometimes handhold at 1/4 and even 1/8th. i have to go to my inner sniper rifle mode but i can get more than acceptable results. my point is find your personal limit so you will know what you can or cannot get away with. those extra 2 or 3 stops mean the difference between getting the shot or not at all. on the other hand if a tripod is available i'm going to use it.</p>

<p>i have a the 7II with a 65mm and 43mm lens. i start the Oooos and Aahhhs as soon as i start pulling negatives off final rinse. i use the 43mm 90% of the time for backpacking and shooting small trout streams. it blows away the 40mm bronica on my SQai. it rivals the old raptar 135mm on my crown graphic, (some will day duh, here) if i ever get a wider lens for the crown graphic i will start lugging into the thickets again, but with whatever limitations the mamiya has, (for me it is close focus) the qulaity of a well exposed and nicely developed negative speaks for itself. I use mine more like a large format camera, on a tripod, with slow film, a cable release, long exposure, and i usually zone focus at about 8ft at f/16 which gives good DOP from about 3.5ft to infinity, or close. every camera has it's place, but you'll see when you start looking at your images, the mamiya 7 is a keeper. i can't wait to get a good scanner! anyone with experience will notice the crappy scans of prints on my website, but the prints of the mamiya make me smile.<br>

<a href="http://www.ronniepettit.com">www.ronniepettit.com</a></p>

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<p>i have also used a vivitar 283 on my holga. i was doing a portrait session for some older ladies when my 35mm pooped out, probabbly due to a weak battery...so rather than panic i picked up the holga and made some awesome shots that looked great as long as they were not enlarged toooo much.</p>

<p>my favorite thing about the holga is that since you don't really focus and the lens is fairly wide angle you don't really have to put it up to your eye and fuss so much over framing either. with subjects that may not want to be photographed i have just acted as if i were walking by holding my camera at chest level as if i were just carrying it, then squeeze off a quiet "snap" when at about 15ft distance to subject. it has worked well with street people that otherwise would want to panhandle money...that i didn't have to give. other times i was happy to give a guy a buck for a shot.</p><div></div>

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<p>ten-four. i guess that makes you feel like you can only shoot with your back to the sun. one suggestion might be to cut out sections of the rubber hood to make it look like the tabbed style wide angle hoods. i dunno, just drining coffee and thinking without checks and balances.</p>

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