joe_mcgloin

For the most complete look at all of the Chinese Minolta 35mm SLR clones -- there are hundreds of them -- check out:

 

CHINA

Thanks. One option for me is to take it apart and visually try to determine what does what. A simpler option -- the one I will try first -- is to check with a meter each of the six contacts to see where there is 24v power. I thought I could possibly avoid that by asking here is case someone might know.

 

The other enlarger head only needs power. It uses a FCS 24v 150w bulb with no fan.

I know it's 24v. That's obvious. I need to know what each of the six colorhead contacts are for so I can match it up with my other head which is also 24v.

I'm happy to tell. I want to determine if it will work with a different enlarger head for which it was not designed. Does that make a difference?

What are each of the six colorhead contacts?

Still having troubling posting.

But I would only modify it, if it works for my purposes. That's what I need to determine.

If I modify it, I would be changing the outlets.

I'm having trouble posting.

I have the equipment to test it. I just thought I could save some time by asking.

The output from the power supply is 24 volt. Is the output from the power supply AC or DC? The box does not say.

There ISN'T anything wrong. I want to modify it for another purpose. I'm not going into a lengthy explanation if there isn't anyone who knows a lot about the innards. That's all.

Is there anyone out there that might be able to answer an electrical question about the Beseler #8198 Dual Dichro DGA32 power supply -- Beseler can't!

<p>I agree. The biggest problem with the Mamiya 16 (with focusing lens) is that the lens gets stuck in place (due to dried-out old grease) and then the "slider" arm breaks, bends or disconnects. It's an easy fix with a drop of alcohol or lighter fluid, but you need to make sure it is working and lubricated and connected before you put it all back together.</p>

<p>My TOKO website is up and running, although it is still under construction. Take a look at<br>

www.subclub.org/toko/index.htm</p><div></div>

<p>My TOKO website is up and running, although it is still under construction. Take a look at<br>

www.subclub.org/toko/index.htm</p>

<p>Fujinar LF lenses were marked in centimeters not millimeters. The widest was a 15cm W f6.3 lens. So the lens you are talking about is NOT a Fujinar lens -- unless it is marked in centimeters. For the most complete -- but still limited -- info see:<br>

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/byseries.htm</p>

<p>I hope to get a TOKO website set up and running soon. I don't know if they are still in business, but they are great cameras. It will be listed at "The world's most complete Fujinon large format website" at<br>

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/</p>

<p>Yes, people use Toko 4x5 cameras -- because they are the best. But they had bad advertising and no one knows about them. But who cares, you have one. They are probably out of business, but made many models. I have a Nikki II and and FL-452. One cherry, one rosewood. I've used these for 25 years in rugged backpacking adventures, so you will probably never need parts. The thing most likely to break is the groundglass. No big deal. I'd recommend a Beattie Intenscreen even if you don't break the original.</p>