serjohn

<p>It was a cassette that got pop spilled on/in it. I am going to offer to process it for him since I have the things needed and I don't know if there are any labs in the Twin Cities that hand process film any longer. Thanks to all for the advice.</p>

<p>This is a roll of 35mm film if that makes any difference. Thanks again for the advice Kevin and Trevor.</p>

<p>Kevin, do you mean put the canister in the tank without opening it or do you mean open the canister and then soak the film that way. Also after i dump the water the second time how long should i wait until i put the tank back into the changing back to wind the film onto the reel. Thanks again, John</p>

<p>I have a friend who shot a roll of Tri-X and had brought it to a lab to be processed. When the lab looked at it they noticed it had had something sticky on the canister and film that they would not process it. My question is is there a way to salvage it, ie put it in the tank without winding it on the reel and soaking it with water or something? Also it has been frozen since as far as I know. Will this have any effect on trying to save it or not? I would of course let it thaw before I do anything and it was shot a number of years ago. Thanks in advance for any help.</p>

F2 ;)

Aperture mode is where you set the Aperture via the control knob to get the depth of field you want. IE do you want everything in focus or just some of it. When you use that mode the camera then sets the shutter speed for you. Full manual requires you to set the shutter and Aperture combination to get the right exposure. For example if the meter is showing your exposure is correct and you decide you want to say go from f/8 to f/11 for more depth of field you would need a longer shutter speed to compensate, for example if the shutter was a 1/500 you would need to go to to 1/250. The idea being that the sensor needs a certain amount of light it's how you combine the shutter and Aperture to get there. Hope this helps

I vote for the F2 as the best Nikon film burner. Built like a brick you know what house and non-ai lenses are a

dime a dozen for the common ones. I bought mine about 8 years ago and it looks like someone ran over the

thing with a Mack cement truck and then backed over it to try and finish the job. Meter is still just about spot

on and the thing hasn't had a CLA in who knows how long. IIRC for the body, finder I bought later on, and a

24,28,35,50,55 micro, and 85mm lens for less then $500 total.

When I do my own black and white I scan it. If I have it processed which is what I do for shots that can't be redone, IE my niece's baptism then I have contact sheets done as I can show to my family so they can decide what if any shots they want prints of. As you do Brooks I just have color processed only and then scan.

My understanding for the reason Kodachrome has such a long life is that is basically a b&w film that has the color added during the processing. I haven't shot it in years and should even though I have bought a digital camera and my old beat with an ugly stick F2 is pretty much been been used for Tri-x and Plus-x. Kodachrome would be very much in line for a camera of that vintage as I'm sure it saw it during it's lifetime.

Nikon F2. Built like a tank and will outlive you. If you get one that uses non-AI lenses you can get the lenses dirt cheap.

I have a friend who has a about 3 year old Rebel with a flash issue. For a while

when she needed to manually pop the flash to use it the button would not work

and she needed to use her fingernail to raise it. IIRC it would pop by itself if

it was in the auto mode. Now she says the flash will not fire at all when

raised. The question is is this a known issue and even if it is not is this that

can be repaired or is she better off getting a new Rebel. If it is fixable where

is a good place to have it serviced? TIA for any help.

If you are looking for a shooter I would consider a F2. They are built like a tank and you can get non ai lenses for dirt cheap on the bay. Since you stated you would be doing mainly b&w the older lenses which don't have the modern coatings would work well. Just my 2 cents.

I'll have to go through my images and find some to post. I bought a non-Ai one off the bay for about 60 clams a few years ago and have found I am using it more and more for landscape photography due to the wide view. Great lens, I love it.