martynas_photo

<p>on i5, 8gb ram, win7 pro x64 the proverbially slow nx2 works like a charm - stable, fast and way better than non-native raw converters. My only wish is that Nikon finally made the two programs 100% compatible - I am referring to the "convert file" command in ViewNX. When you have a nef that was not edited in CaptureNX2 (or when it was quick adjusted in ViewNX), you can use this command to quickly convert selected Nef's to jpeg/tiff, choosing size options, removing exif data, etc. However, as soon as you touch the nef in CaptureNX2, the 'convert file' command no longer works on ViewNX. Which is strange, because ViewNX's "Email" option works (essentially doing the same conversion, but with far less choices). Otherwise - just great.</p>

<p>did you try Nikon's digitutor? I believe it covers all the major points pretty well<br>

http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d7000/index.html</p>

If the problem is with the rear screen, a

new oem replacement costs 27$ on the

big auction site. I also have the official

d100 service manual in pdf, should you

decide to replace it yourself.

<p>a quote from radiocitychristmas.com FAQ:<br /> For the Christmas Spectacular and other family events, 35mm and digital cameras will be permitted in Radio City Music Hall, however, <strong>you must refrain from taking pictures during the performance</strong>. Taking photos during events is distracting not only to the performers, but your fellow patrons as well. Video cameras/recorders are strictly prohibited. <strong>This policy will be strictly enforced</strong>. For concert events, this policy is at the discretion of the artist. Please call Guest Relations at 212-465-6225, any weekday during normal business hours, for more information.<br /> I would suggest that if you absolutely need to take pictures - take your cousin the stage manager and together go and ask someone in charge for a permission. Since M6 is much quieter than an SLR, and if you swear not to use flash - I think you should be granted the verbal agreement to take a couple of pictures. And you will feel better too. If they say NO, then you are on your own, to breach or not to breach the rules of the house. There are many reasons behind the prohibition to take pictures at theatres/halls during the performances, not only "it might disturb the audience and the players".<br>

regarding the film - I would say tungsten balanced film would be best. Or you'll have to use filters.</p>

Do you format the card in camera after

each transfer of files? Did you try

another card?

<p>http://www.rwhirled.com/landlist/landhome.htm</p>

An excellent resource for polaroid land cameras.

<p>have no experience with mamiya 6 - but don't they have the leaf shutters in lenses? maybe the problem is somewhere in the lens shutter mechanism? or the electrical contacts between the lens and body?</p>

Why not simply write the owner's photos to a cd

and hand it together with the camera, with due

explanation of what has happened??

<blockquote>

<p>If you're getting "quite a few complaints," perhaps you shouldn't be shooting.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Exactly. I have a d700 that I regularly use at several theatres. I have never received any complaints, nor have the people hiring me. I would not even think about doing it without the soft blimp, no matter how loud the performance is, as the d700 is indeed a very loud camera.<br>

so, a couple suggestions to you. Use a Blimp! try talking to the guys at light/sound booths, they might let you in for a couple of shots. if possible - try to move around (exiting the hall and entering through another door, not walking in front of people or between the rows). wait for louder parts. go to the rehearsals, so that you know what and where to expect at the actual performance. always be nice to people around you. Never shoot the performance in a way you'd shoot a sports event with roaring crows around. dress properly... may sound stupid but it also adds to the way people accept you.<br>

the blimp that i use https://www.isarfoto.com/cms.php/_pid:26389,l:271,pp:0,ps:az/en/0/Produkt.html<br>

of course, it is not a convenient thing, and it does not eliminate the sound, yet, using it in combination with the above suggestions should reduce the number of complaints you are getting. People pay money for those performances and they have every right to watch them without being disturbed by some photographer. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I may be wrong, but i have a strong feeling that the colour images on the linked site have been edited using some "cross processing" filters. (that's aside from standard USM/high pass and/or blurring techniques). It has very little to do with the camera used. You will not get "better looking" images straight out of the d700 - its all about post processing. and of course, it all starts with the way light is falling on the subject, the angle of the shot, etc. I don't see anything very bad about the picture of the kid, save for the overdone vignetting. It simply does not fit this kind of picture.<br /> btw, I saw candid shooting mentioned - if I understand correctly, one of the points in this kind of photography is about "not attracting" attention. You won't be able to do that with a d700 - it is perhaps the loudest Nikon I have ever worked with (and I had all of the Dxxx series, not to mention the good old fm2 or f5). Also, when using the d700 with your current lenses, you would have to get closer to the subject to achieve the same FOV. Again, not exactly what "candid", as I understand it, is about.</p>

Look for seller "procamerarepair" on #bay. I think

they have all the parts you need.

<p>BKT + CSM pressed simultaneously for more than 2 seconds will reset to factory defaults.<br>

<strong> </strong><br>

afterwards - http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/005/005AbN-12909284.htm</p>

<p>I wonder what it would look like with 70-200 attached... :)</p>

<p>I think you cannot use the polaroid back from pro-s on pro-sd (or you have to get an adapter to mount it). Otherwise, all pro-s items can be used on Pro-sd.</p>

<p>Try "master reset" using the dedicated reset button (the tiny one on the side of the camera). check if aperture coupling is ok and moving smoothly on the camera side (also check if lens aperture is set to the smallest value). alternatively try google search (d80 +err) - there are some 100k results, maybe there is a simple solution among them.<br /> I am surprised that Nikon gave you the estimate without seeing the camera, though.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Although I advocate learning and DIY, this is not the case. Don't do it.<br /> But if you absolutely need to do it (even risking your health) - try to get a copy of the repair manual and study it carefully before attempting anything. Afterwards (if you are still alive or have recovered from the shock) collect all loose parts, screws, metal plates, springs, etc. and take them to the repair shop, they might be able to put it back together :)<br /> and no, I am not a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2Mc7bTG3-c">sarcasmoholic</a>:) I have learned it the hard way..</p>

<p>D700 (and I believe all Nikon's FX bodies) has the DX crop function, where the image area is reduced to a DX (cropping the vignetted part of the image when a dx lens is attached). Serves as a pretty good illustration when you try to explain someone about the FOV differences on different cameras.</p>

<p>what software do you use to process raws? If it is anything other than Nikon's own program, the in-camera sharpness setting is totally irrelevant. If its capture nx2 - you go to picture control section and make sure that sharpening is set to 0. But this can be done in camera too, since the picture control reads data form camera. sorry my d700 is at work, but it is pretty straightforward - find the manage picture control setting in the camera's menu, go deeper into menu and there you will have the sharpening, contrast, saturation. etc. adjustment sliders. Active D-Lighting has to be turned off to access some of the settings (like contrast). Unsure about the sharpening</p>

<p>Ian,<br /> it is too expensive (the original price and the money you intend to spend on refurbishing it), thus, not feasible. What would be an acceptable price? Well, I have recently bought one off e**y for ~50USD. Technically dead (would not power on), but cosmetically in mint condition (and I know what a heavily used d100 looks like, as I have worked with one for several years). The repair cost me another 60USD (have yet to find out what was actually wrong with it).<br /> I would disagree with some of the posters regarding this camera as outdated, good for nothing, etc. For a reasonable price, it is a very capable performer. Yes, it is not for someone after high fps, low light capability (beyond ISO800), live view, modern ttl, or millions of pixels. What it has is a very distinctive manner of colour handling - which either pleases you or not. In fact, when the light is ok, the raw produced straight from the camera is at times way more pleasing (due to colour, tonal reproduction, etc) and requires less PP than the raw from my D700. Its noise pattern is also significantly different from that in d700 - at times it could be mistaken for a film grain. I have used this camera for several years, shooting theatre performances, concert halls, etc - all distinguished for their poor/complicated lighting. I have printed 90x70 or even larger and the results are excellent.<br /> That said, it is most likely a camera for someone who attaches some sentimental value to it. Otherwise, a d80, or a d200 would be a far better choice by today's standards. Unless you get a clean d100 dirt cheap, which, in my humble opinion, should not go beyond 80-90GBP.<br>

Sadly, it is not possible to check the shutter count on these bodies. Maybe Nikon can do it, but no exif reader can.</p>

<p>Nikon, please, hire a team of professional programmers/developers and make the otherwise brilliant Capture NX2 FASTER and BUG-FREE!</p>

<p>NIKON. a simple way. it does help taking better pictures too :) no, really.</p>

<p>Peter, you have just sort of dismissed the idea that something nice might happen in a range between 28-49mm or 51-70mm...when you NEED it fast. its not about the difference between the zoom and the prime. its just... about a difference.<br /> (d700, 50mm and 28-70mm btw:)</p>

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a 24mm prime. (if the point of upgrade is the lack of such

focal length. Otherwise, there is no substantial reason for change, optically both lenses are

top performers. 28-70 is heavier though

<p>in case it is relevant for your article - two years ago I have bought (on bay) a brand new kit of RB67 Pro-SD with 127mm KL lens and two backs (6x7 and6x4.5) for something like 700USD. I paid another ~600USD for an array of 'C' lenses (50mm, 90, 180, 250 and 500mm, the first three in 'like-new' condition), several backs and other minor accessories. It takes time, of course, to look for good deals on the auction site, but they are there. and the prices are simply ridiculous. It is indeed interesting what the original prices were.</p>

<p>Marc, thanks for your time and detailed info. That's all I could ever need to build the bracket.<br /> Gareth, I was thinking about the Manfrotto 293, but it somehow doesn't seem solid enough for a heavy outfit like this. And it does not differ too much from the bracket that came with the lens (Marumi MAS 1174 PRO) which would be pretty useable, albeit too short for the 500mm. <br /><br /> Paul, sure, taking the weight off the bellows rack is one concern, along with the requirement that the supporting cradle/ring must remain under the front part of the lens that moves parallel to the bracket while focusing. <br /> Thanks again for your contributions. I have just done some quick test shots with a polaroid back - the lens performs very nicely, even "wide open". all it needs is a solid and convenient support bracket:)</p>