martynas_photo

<p>Yes, other cameras from Fuji have this option as well. Well, at least my Finepix F70EXR does, and it was manufactured before any of the X series cameras.</p>

<p>agree with Rick. it could be handled way better. Or just send the bill, without much fuss, if that's the only way you see. If I were in your shoes, I'd try to establish a good business relationship with the "High End" company in Scotland, but sure, I may be wrong</p>

<p>bought some cheapo 3rd party charger - works like a charm:). will give Fuji a call, maybe they'll exchange the faulty one, even though I am not the original buyer of the camera (but I have all receipts and the warranty is still valid)</p>

<p>Michael - sure, the ingenious piece of plastic is on the charger, the batteries fit perfectly and all contacts are clean...</p>

<p>Hi all,<br /> a silly problem here, but maybe somebody has encountered something like that.<br /> Got a used x100 off ebay. all well, all nice, pictures beautiful. While waiting for the camera ordered 3rd party (ansmann, fairly serious manufacturer, I'd think) battery to have a spare when needed. And now the story - the camera arrived, everything is nice, the battery is charged. I go out shoot, enjoy, etc. Battery dies eventually (shows red signs in camera), so it is put into an original charger that came with the camera. green light on, life's beautiful again, etc. After some 5-7 hours I start getting worried - why doesn't the green light shut down? the battery must be charged already, mustn't it? Take out the battery, put it into the camera - it powers on, but dies immediately, after showing the empty battery sign.<br /> alright I think, must be the battery. I unpack the brand new replacement from Ansmann, put it into a charger - the green light shines, looks nice. After some ~5 hours the light is still on. I think - whatever, I still want to try this camera. put the battery inside, it shows full. OK, great. I go out, shoot, review, play with the settings. until the last red mark, which means - go charge. I go and charge. after 6 hours - green light still on the charger. Assuming that it simply does not recognize a charged 3rd party battery I put it into the camera, which says - NO WAY, this battery is near empty...<br /> I go to a friend who knows way more about the batteries/chargers and has a tester. He tests the charger and concludes that it is working properly.<br /> The question then is - what is going on?<br /> ps. I have the plastic cr&&p piece on the charger, I have tried different cables, etc. I would think it is the charger, but WHY did it charge the new battery properly for the first time?<br /> the seller claims he has never encountered any problems of this kind. <br />and no, there are no voltage issues in the place I am trying to charge the thing.<br /> I would appreciate any ideas.<br /> pps. when I disconnect the charger, remove and put the "charged" battery in - the green light goes on. what a heck is that supposed to mean? It is not connected to the mains<br /> THANKS!</p>

<p>The oldest one of my 5 EN-EL3E's is ~5 years old (came with D700 I bought in 2008). Works perfectly, can't see the difference in performance between this battery and the one I bought last year.</p>

<p>maybe there's something wrong with the focusing screen? If it is installed incorrectly - the image might be focused to your eyes, but not against the film plane. I've never come across such problem myself, just read about it somewhere. <br>

Surely, the scanner may be off as well.</p>

<p>My guess would be that this is a Mamiya 645 Pro or Pro TL, with detachable power winder.<br>

<a href="http://www.getdpi.com/forum/attachments/gear-fs-wtb/53522d1326639669-mamiya-645-pro-w-sekor-c-45mm-2-8-380064_10150375652369613_502899612_8239331_1843298098_n-1-.jpg">like this one </a></p>

<p>let's hope it is some kind of temporary problems. It was one of the most important suppliers of camera parts to independent repair shops after the big manufacturers have cut the supply, so their going out of business would be sad news to many repairmen and their customers.</p>

<p>I have just realised that you have provided a link to filtered negative responses only... making it seem as if their business had stopped completely. The statistics for the last 12 months say that they have 16391 positive, 175 neutral and 220 negative feedbacks. I am not saying that those are good figures, but 220 unhappy customers vs 16391 satisfied does not seem like a big tragedy to me. the negative rate is less than 2% and given the problems with current limited parts supply from nikon, canon and the like, that this and other repair shops are facing - I think it is pretty normal. </p>

<p>I have dealt with them in the past - no problems whatsoever. The local repair-shop where I fix and clean my gear also has a lasting relationship with them. As much as I know it is actually a small business (maybe family owned) - so perhaps something bad happened to some of the owners. Reminds me of one ebay seller, wcrs, or whatever his nickname was, who used to sell medium format gear at really good prices. I must be one of the last to have ordered and RECEIVED the mamiya rb67 pro-sd set - after that the seller simply stopped trading and had an avalanche of negative feedbacks. and he had a perfect history of trading.</p>

<p>If I were in your shoes - I would simply process a couple of these images, resize them for web and send them to your customers, kindly telling them that you think the final pictures look way better like this. You will not lose anything and they should get the hint that their actions were not exactly correct. Adding watermark to the existing online proofs might also a good idea.</p>

 

<p>no light in my head, I'm just bored. no light=no visible crayon (red, blue or whatever). the moment you manage to determine which crayon (out of, say, 20) is red with your eyes closed - you have a solution. whether you'd care about it - is another question:)</p>

<p>try reading this<br>

http://www.yelp.com/biz/overstock-digital-washington</p>

<p>so, I believe it would be safe to assume that in the event the crayon under the bowl were replaced by a herring, it [the herring] would be red?</p>

<p>that's a bit off-topic, but obviously you are one of the very few people who find d7000 too big...:)<br /> back to the point - no, there are no such cameras in Nikon's lineup. well, save for the older bodies like d300/300s or similar, but those are bigger/heavier and older than d7000. Regarding buttons and switches - D7000 has 2 User modes, where you can simply save your favourite settings and apply them whenever needed with a single turn of the dial. That is pretty straightforward in my opinion.</p>

<p>I have tested it with different lenses and all of them worked fine, with no af adjustments needed. However, since there was no way I could use the camera with MY lenses, it was sold to someone who is perfectly happy with the way it works. I now have another problem - what camera to get, if my old lenses are too old and "tired" for modern cameras like d7000... Can this whole thing be somewhat related to the screwdriver focus (all of my lenses) vs internal lens focus (all of the borrowed ones, which worked perfectly) motor?? especially, given the fact that all of my lenses are more or less ok when focused manually (using viewfinder focus confirmation)? with live view focus was spot on, but I know that's different.</p>

<p>Well,<br>

after testing the camera with five other lenses (all dx by the way) I must say that the problem was with my own optics. Although all of my lenses work flawlessly with d700/d200/d100/f5 etc, obviously the d7000 is a bit more demanding. It is strange, though, that some cheapskate kit dx lens works way better than a professional grade fx glass. on the other hand most of my lenses are old and have seen a lot in their life and the problems not apparent with 12mp might become obvious with 16mp on dx... don't know.<br>

Anyway, the camera is ok and is now gone. Thank you all for your input. </p>

 

<p>Looking forward to see how this camera performs in the ISO 1600-3200 range, as I still believe in purely technical limitations of squeezing so many pixels into the sensor. But if it performs equally to the d7000 - that would be a no brainer.</p>

<p>Elliot, d700 has in-built sensor cleaner. how effective it is - that's another question</p>

<p>William,<br /> thanks - yes I have done the reset a number of times (including manual going through menu to restore everything to defaults and the two button reset), but nothing changed. Unless there is some form of a true hard-reset on a d7000, but I've not been able to find it.<br /> Lex,<br /> what information are you referring to? the testing images or the theatre ones? testing was done with d7000 +50mm 1.4D (iso ~500, aperture 1.4, shutter - really fast enough, 1/800 or something like that. sufficient light (natural or artificial) - distance to target sufficient. The theatre shots were taken with 80-200 f/2.8 af-d @f4 (mostly, sometimes f3.5), iso 800-1600, shutter 1/160-1/320 (camera on tripod). Light - a range of temperatures from ~3000 to 5500K (plus filters, etc). By the way, I was very pleased by the Auto WB of the camera. Distance from camera to subject - 15-25m.</p>

<p>well, thank you all for your time and responses. It turned out that the camera is still under manufacturers warranty (which is 2 years in Germany), so, hopefully Nikon will be able to fix it. I think it would be reasonable to attach the test images with descriptions, so that they immediately see where the problem is?<br /> on a side note - I went to a camera repair shop to have a professional do some focus testing. autofocus is definitely off, but manual focus appears to be ok. Another interesting thing - today I decided to shoot a theatre performance to see how it behaves in "real life" conditions. I tried switching between af-s and af-c focus modes and the latter produced a significantly larger number of well-focused shots (still, all shots were taken with with -20 default and -20 lens AF Fine tune adjustment). I usually shoot theatre with af-s, so don't blame this one on me:) Central point was used for focusing on all occasions. Is there any rational explanation why af-c is much better thatn af-s for comparatively static objects?<br>

also - can such erratic behaviour be due to the fact that most of my lenses are screwdriver focus type, not af-s? not to mention that I have no dx lenses.</p>

<p>Andy, exactly - I just need some figures to do my math. The seller said nothing about any issues and would (unwillingly) accept the camera back. Price was good and if calibration/repair is not too expensive - I would have a working and individually adjusted camera. I have played with various AF tuning options today - after I set the in-camera AF fine tune to -20 - the 50mm lens becomes perfectly usable (unfortunately, the adjustment does not work that well for other lenses, especially the 80-200, which remains unacceptably back-focused from ~135 to 200mm).<br /> Elliot - still thinking about it, thanks:) I really like the images from this camera +fine tuned 50mm.</p>

<p>Wouter,<br /> thanks for your response. the camera does not AF properly, there's no doubt and no point in discussing the testing involved. I just wanted to ask, perhaps someone on photo.net has come across this issue and could share the info about the associated repair costs on a non-warranty D7000. I have limited time to return the camera and such info would help me decide - return it or keep and send it for repair (I got it for a fairly good price and do not mind a little extra to have it properly calibrated). Aside from being unable to achieve focus - this camera is great and I would be happy to keep it.<br /> its that simple actually.</p>

<p>hello everyone,<br /> just bought the 7000 on ebay - everything is ok, save for the famous back focussing issue. I was prepared that some of my lenses might need some AF Fine tuning, but I did not expect that ALL of them will have this problem with a camera. I tried 50mm f1.4, 24mm f2.8, 80-200 f2.8 and 28-70 f2.8... All lenses are Nikkor and all work perfectly on d100, d200 and d700 (not to mention F5). Adjustments as high as -20 (default +specific lens) are needed and even then the problem persists. Naturally, focus is spot-on when using live view. <br /> Since the camera is past the warranty period, I need to decide whether I return it and look for another, with potentially same problems, or do I take it to Nikon centre for recalibration. Does anyone have experience with that and what was the price you have paid for such servicing (I'm in Europe, so that info would be most useful)? The camera is 1 year old (I believe the ordinary warranty was good for one year only) and is otherwise in pristine condition with some 4000 actuations. The original owner claims he never had any problems using kit lenses. <br /> Thanks.</p>