alan_kovarik

Can somebody elaborate what is behind the specific look of large format photography. I think its not only about high resolution/dynamic range and shallow depth of field. Why large format photographs (even portraits) looks so different and more epic and lifelike than 35mm photographs?

BTW, do you thing this delay could cause aforementioned slight motion blur on some pictures?

What is interesting is that this didnt happend to me when I was using speedlites with cheapo RF flash trigger.

Flash duration of my strobes is: 1/800 - 1/2000.

Thank you for your answers.

I have Nikon D3300. Its sync speed should be 1/200, but when I shoot with strobes, I have a black bar at the bottom of any image. When I change the shutter to 1/160, the black bar is gone. Where could be the problem? I use GODOX SK 400II strobes with Godox XT-16 transmitter. I didnt noticed this problem when I used speedlites. I also noticed slight motion blur on some portraits when shooting with the strobes. Even at 1/160 with 50mm lens. I didnt noticed any motion blur on similar photos when I used speedlites before I bought strobes and I didnt noticed anything like this when I shoot events without any flash/strobe. Any ideas where could be the problem?

My father wants some modern alternative for his old Four Thirds camera Olympus e420. He has three lenses for this camera, so he would like some camera that could use them. What cameras (around $500) would you recommend for these lenses?

I found the default Epson profile and the colors look ok now. BTW, this article (HOW TO PRINT ON A EPSON..one of the way) suggest I should use adobeRGB 98, but I dont see it in profile settings.

Thank you. So the main problem was in the paper profile. I was printing the image on a normal paper, but in the setting was "glossy paper". I didnt noticed it. However, the colors are still a bit off. Slightly warmer than when I print it in XnView. In photoshop I have two profiles for my Epson printer: "Epson sRGB" and "Epson Standard RGB - gamma 1.8". There was some default Epson profile, but it dissapeared after I was playing with the settings. Maybe this was the right profile, but I cant find it now. I tried to look for a profile for my printer (Epson L382) on the internet, but I didnt found anything.

I tried to print an image in Photoshop and the printed image has very wierd colors. I tried two options "Photoshop manages colors" and "Printer manages colors". No difference. Then I tried to print the same image in XnView and the colors looks exactly same as on my monitor. So where is the problem in Photoshop? How can XnView print it ok and Photoshop can't?

This is a softbox with a bowens mount. So the light shines through the hole and two difussions that can be added. This isnt a usual umbrella.

I wonder if the umrella rod in the center affect the quality of the light.or not. What do you think? I am planning to buy something like this, because I hate to assemble softboxes :-)

Tamron 24-70 looks pretty good. Maybe I will save up some money for it. Nikon 24-120mm f/4G AF-S VR Nikkor Lens Image Quality

I can buy Nikon D610 for a very good price and I am looking for some kit lens (something between 24-80mm would be ideal) bellow $600. Could be used/older lens, but with AF and it should be sharp. What would you recommend? I am considering new Nikon 24-120 f/4 (which is for €455 on e-infin) or older and much cheaper Nikon 35-70 f/2.8 which is also a macro lens.

Is there some kind of adapter that will change my ordinary Nikon lenses into a tilf shift lenses?

Just wondering if you prefer using the Nikon camera calibration profiles, or just stick with Adobe Standard in postproduction. It looks to me that the Nikon profiles has better dynamic range (which is usually better starting point for me), but they have also slight warm color cast (my monitor is not calibrated, so I am not sure about this).

It is 55mm/f2.8 AI-S version.

I bought Nikon Micro 55mm (great lens) and I am just curious how old is the lens. The serial number is 463921.

Thanks for the answers. I returned it. I hope it didnt somehow damage my camera :) BTW, they gave me another 55mm lens. I will try it tomorrow.

I just found a picture of another Nikkor Micro 55mm lens. The black dot on the bayonet mount is in a different place. http://www.rockycameras.com//ekmps/shops/rockcameras/images/-55mm-f2.8-ais-micro-nikkor-boxed-nice-nikon-micro-nikkor-55mm-f2.8-prime-macro-lens-inst-boxed-mint-99.99-%5B4%5D-73505-p.jpg

I dont have other manual lens. I can only mout it when I alignt the black thing (in the red circle on this photo) with the wite dot on my camera.

I can mount the lens only when I match up the black bulge (in the red circle) on the lens and white dot on camera body.

I just bought this lens and I have two questions about it: 1) The optics seems to be ok (really sharp), but the lens rattle when shaken. Could this be a problem? 2) When I mount the lens to my Nikon D3300, it is somehow upside down (the aperture numbers are pointing downwards). My modern lenses have white dots, so I know immediately how to mount them, but this lens has no mounting dot, so I am just guessing and maybe I am doing it wrong? Thanks for any answers.

Yes, it is 1:1 lens. I am was not inside minimum focusing distance. BTW, all the images are 100% crops.

f/5.6