fotopom

<p>Catch is on the top at the back. Push the button and slide the latch... back and bottom just slide down and off. The latch looks like its for the opening the view screen but that is on the corner instead.<br>

Hope this answer helps someone, as I'm 6 years to late for the original question!</p>

<p>Hi all, My Zorki 4k has been a very reliable camera for the last two years. All speeds work well and the camera has been well cared for. I bought a Leica IIIa the other day and the poor old Zorki promptly spat the dummy and wont advance film any more. It looks to me like a clutch is slipping or something - as if the rewind mechanism is still engaged. Any thoughts people?<br>

Cheers,<br>

Dan </p>

<p>Politics is definitely off topic, but discussing the context of a picture and the emotion invoked is surly not off topic at all! I think these pictures capture the raw emotion of the event, suffering, discomfort, inconvenience, shock... they help us all connect as people. I felt the first picture was quite powerful, just the look in the peoples eyes tells a story, not to mention the framing of the setting. Dan</p>

<p>Zorki 4K<br>

Praktica BC1 (x2)<br>

Canonet QL17<br>

Mamiya Super23<br>

are my main shooters other than the one dslr I carry (Pentax K200d)<br>

and about 20 other occasional film shooters including Roliflex T, Yashica Mg1, Canonet 28, Olympus Trip 35 ... yeah i like rangefinders, just wish I had more medium format stuff also.</p>

 

<p>

<p>I agree, when i look at a roll of film i manually meter, its very consistent. When I look at a roll shot on aperture priority the exposure varies more. Even the matrix metering on my DSLR is not as consistent. Just do it! you wont regret it, then when you shoot normally you'll be so much better and faster and you will know when your light meter or camera is misleading you!<br>

<br>

Seriously carry a small light meter, or use the on in your camera on your hand, find an aperture you like, then check the speed difference required for say, bright light, shade and heavy shade. Once you have this in your head, you will find yourself absent mindedly adjusting the camera as you walk around. Then when you see a shot click.. you have it.<br>

<br>

To go one step further once you know the depth of field associated with your chosen aperture, you can pre set your focus to say 3m, then with acceptable tolerance and no lag from autofocus, go click at the decisive moment and get that shot!!!</p>

</p>

<p>Thought I'd chip in for the first time.<br /> I shoot with all manner of cameras from an Yashica me-35 for zone focus from the hip shooting which unfortunately does all the metering for me but at least tells me the aperture and speed at which it will shoot, through to completely manual use of my Zorki 4k and Canonet QL17. I find for best light control I prefer to use manual cameras and meter off my hand (with an old western II selenium cell light meter) which I hold at an angle to represent the light I see falling on the people’s faces I'm about to photograph. I walk through strong light, shade and heavy shade all the time as I move around, so I use HP5 (400 iso) black and white film, I choose my favourite aperture based on what the light allows ie f8, then I find the speed settings for each major light situation and rotate back and forth through the speeds as I walk from one area to another. This means I can be standing in sun and photographing into the shade quickly without needing to meter. I just occasionally check on my hand and rely on my brain and the flexibility of my film to do the rest. Its fun, kind of a drug... I enjoy it that’s why I do it that way. For my normal every day work shooting I use a DSLR, so its nice to do something different for my hobby. P.s Im an agricultural consultant not a pro photographer.<br /> Oh, and the best thing with these old cameras (apart from the feel and conversation piece and non scary look of them) is that they have depth of field markings, and with a good aperture you can even stuff up the focus yet still get a reasonably sharp image, especially when shooting discretely from the hip<br /> Dan</p>

 

<p>Well after another chewing incident (not Zorki's fault -my bulk loaded spool had an issue) I have decided I must have a back up body for on the road. The choices I have without resorting to hell-bay is a Zorki 4 $200AUD, or a Leica 3a$400AUD.<br /> What do you guys recon?</p>

<p>That would make sense Laurentiu, it has been slowly getting easier to turn the more i use it. I'll have a good look at it when the next film is finished. If definetly went click when I loaded the current film, and the rewind knob is turning as I advance the film this time so hopefully all is well.<br>

Thanks Jeff, the Bessa is a nice camera, and I am tempted... but the leica iiia is a leica... oh for an M4 though. My local Camera store has a Bessa R something for sale for $700AUS but I don't want to spend that much. A Canon P was another option I'm considering...<br>

Cheers all<br>

Dan </p>

 

<p>Hi Peter, found you on photo.net!<br>

Don't suppose you know anyone in the club selling a working Canon or Leica rangefinder? Love my Zorki 4k but need a reliable second body! currently looking at a Leica iiia... (could you e-mail me if you hear of anything)<br>

Love your Flickr pages!<br>

Are there any particular bodies your looking for... found a chap with a house full of old cameras I can ask him if theres something in particular your looking for!<br>

Dan</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

Recently purchased a Zorki 4k with jupiter 8 and now a jupiter 12 lens. Very happy with the results, camera is working well at all speeds and seems to function well with tractor like efficiency... one small problem though, a roll of film I took at a show this week seemed to get stuck. The result was a 24 film exposed with multiple overlapping images and my frame counter reading 36! Two shots were advanced normally (in the middle of the film), the rest overlapped at least to some extent, leaving half the film unexposed. I noticed at the end -the rewind knob was not turning... it did with the new film afterwards.<br>

What happend, did I load the film wrong, did I bulk load the casset wrong? all my other films have come out fine (all bulk loaded cassets bar one i bought)... any thoughts?<br>

I have found the rewind mechanism was a little stiff when I first started using the camera, but it seems to have loosend up now. To start with I had to use the advance leaver while rewinding the film to get the mechanism to release, i chewed and sheared my first film learning this... and also i learnt not to poke the leader too far into the loading spool else it hangs up when you rewind the film. Could my advance mechanism not fully engaged when i loaded the film this time?<br>

Would love to hear if anyone else has had this experience and what the out come was.<br>

I love the Zorki and the images it produces so I will persist with it, I am considering bying a Leica iiia as a second body (or first!) I realise this will be a bottom loader, that aside is the film mechanism more reliable?<br>

Yes I would love an M series Leica, or a Bessa, but thats not in the budget... and I love old cameras and the fun of using them!<br>

Cheers, <br>

Dan</p>

<p>Lens works smoothly now with no more loose wobbly bits.<br /> Shutter work on all speeds without sticking (which they never did anyway), B setting works and aperture is smooth. Flash sync also works- which is important to check before you re-assemble.<br /> The focusl parts at the back are not touched during this operation, however i will re calibrate my rangefinder as this is my primary lens.<br /> Special thanks to Markus for the advice on how to the front element off and Max from the WA Perth Camera Collectors Club for the plan of attack. There is not much info for this lens on the net so hopefully this is of some help to someone.</p>

<p>Success! You where right it unscrews (with some persistence!)<br>

Any how, this is what i did...</p>

<ul type="disc">

<li>Unscrew the front element</li>

<li>undo the rear locking nut and undo the pc socket</li>

<li>unscrew the rear element</li>

</ul>

<p>At this point you can clean the shutter blades with lighter fluid, only go further if things are all ready fallen apart like mine... shutter blades had already fallen off hence the need to go in...</p>

<ul type="disc">

<li>undo the screws on the aperture handle, and undo the three screws that it rotates around</li>

<li>remove small grub screw and remove brass locking nut</li>

<li>slip off speed dial and plate</li>

<li>shutter assembly more or less can be slid out (without moving the brass centre bit like i did in the bottom picture), watch for shutter lever which will fall out, best to do upside down so the shutter blades don't fall to far out of place.</li>

</ul>

<p><br /> Shutter blades fit kind of like this example from another post about a BR67 lens by <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=944772">vincent martin</a><br /> <img src="http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/5986/correct1ww.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="802" /></p>

 

<ul type="disc">

<li>re-assembly is tricky... take your time, watch the springs all go back correctly. It took me some time to realise there is a spring that sits behind part of the flash m x lever near its timing gear.</li>

<li>When you fit the wind lever, attach the spring rotate it past its normal resting place then back it off and let it drop into its home, otherwise it wont connect with some of the levers it presses. </li>

<li>Don't undo any of the real clockwork stuff, you wont need to unless you have bigger problems than i did!</li>

</ul>

<p>I realise these are not very comprehensive instructions, i'll try harder next time... however these are more than i could find to help me!<br>

Dan</p><div></div>

<p>How do you convert from Adobe RGB to sRGB in photoshop CS2? <br>

Cheers,<br>

Dan</p>

<p>Cheers Grant I think you just hit the nail on the head.<br>

Yes I am working in Adobe RGB -hadnt through of that it makes sense.<br>

I only convert to 8bit as I thought that might be part of the problem... I'll try converting to sRGB when I prep my next image for the web. <br>

Dan</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

Am becoming frustrated with my uploaded pictures looking poor on photo.net when they look great in photoshop CS2 or even my generic windows picture viewer.<br>

My general process is as follows:<br>

Take picture on Pentax K200D in RAW DNG format, view in light room make some alterations to exposure etc, then either save as high res Jpeg or Tiff (and change to 8bit in photoshop), then edit levels, curves and resize to 800x500 pixels in photoshop, then smart sharpen. Final uploaded image is saved as jpeg at max quality or at least medium depending on image.<br>

I am finding my image loses some of its tonality, colour saturation when i view it in iexplorer / google chrome rather than in photoshop or windows' generic photo viewer. I have been lightening and boosting saturation to compensate, but still not happy...<br>

Any help would be appreciated! Below is one such image i am struggling with:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9047178-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thank you Markus, i'm getting close to taking it to a repair shop. Have tried what you suggest but without knowing for sure it will work i'm afraid of applying too much force - might i bend the colapsing mechanism if i twist two hard? <br>

Might be time for me to purchase that 75mm lens i have been eyeing off! (good excuse eh!)</p>

<p>Hi all, 100mm Sekor lens off my Mamiya Super23 has come a bit loose and on closer inspection shutter that has been working perfectly, has just jumped off its perch.<br>

I have fixed many lenses in the past and am not afraid to give this one a shot. As far as I can see I need to enter through the front of the lens, however i am stuck at the name ring. Seems to be glued in place, and even with two shallow holes drilled into it am not getting it to unscrew. <br>

Can anyone give me some guidance?<br>

Cheers,<br>

Dan</p>