brian_bishop2

<p>Smug Mug and Exposure Manager come highly recommended.<br>

Photoreflect is very popular, primarily because the web version is free (but does not actually store files for you). I tried Photoreflect and the customer service was horrible and I didn't like the interface and lack of flexibility. They have very high commission rates as well (18%).<br>

It's well worth the $10 a month or so for one of the others listed above - IMHO<br>

Good luck,<br>

BRB</p>

<p>I will be spending a good bit of time in Jacksonville over the next month on business. I'm pretty familiar with the city and I want to do some photography while I'm there. I like night shots, and want to get some good nighttime cityscapes on the river, bridges etc. I'd also like to do some coastal nature shooting up near Fernandina and/or down around Ponte Vedra (I'd love to be able to shoot #17 at Sawgrass around sunset!).<br>

Any locals on here have any advice? Anybody want to get together for some shooting? I'll be in town 11/16-20, and 11/30-12/18 M-F (I'm flying home for the weekends).<br>

Any advice would be appreciated. shoot me an email at <a href="mailto:bishops90@hotmail.com">bishops90@hotmail.com</a> or post here.<br>

Thanks!<br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>If you're out around 100mm or more and there's nothing closer that can get blown out by the extra light, you can raise your flash ex comp to +2 stops to get farther reach with your flash. Just remember to turn it back down when shooting sideline candids and cheerleader shots or they will be overexposed if not blown out completely.<br>

Raymond is dead on about the thundering feet thing! Hide behind someone very large.<br>

BRB</p>

<p>With a crop sensor camera 200mm is gonna do ok. Just don't try to shoot anything on the far sideline. Try to get good tight shots of plays coming to your side of the field. I like to focus on the player's eyes. If you're forced to run the ISO up real high, the free edition of Neat Image noise reduction does a pretty fair job of removing the worst of the noise. Keep your shutter speed around 1/250 or higher to get decent sharpness. If you shoot in RAW, even if they're a stop underexposed you can recover pretty decent photos. In the end, 2.8 is the way to go!<br>

Good luck.<br>

BRB</p>

<p>A little Saturday night dirt racin'. This is my cousin's ride - (running third - got caught up in somenody else's wreck and DNF)</p><div></div>

<p>Oh, and by the way, this past Sat night they wouldn't let me in the infield with my camera unless I was from a "major racing publication". I have a press pass from a local weekly paper I shoot HS football for. The shot above was at a Thursday night practice session</p>

<p>sorry, double post</p><div></div>

<p>Hi guys, I found this forum looking for info on shooting dirt racing. For you guys who are set up with local tracks, how do you approach a track for photography services and how do you charge? I shot a few of my cousins car a few weeks ago and he said they were WAY better than the "official" track photographer and that I should pursue doing more of them. Any advice would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Brian</p>

<p>I posted a link to the press release in my topic about there not being any new DSLR products. Here it is as well.<br>

<a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/20090819_powershot.html">http://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/20090819_powershot.html</a><br>

BRB</p>

<p>Yes it seems like a logical progression down the product line. Is there a Digic 5 coming soon to the top end? (there I go starting rumors)<br>

BRB</p>

<p>Canon announced today the addition of 6 new P&S cameras, but nothing for the DSLR line of bodies and lenses.<br>

<a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/20090819_powershot.html">http://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/20090819_powershot.html</a></p>

<p>Sorry!</p>

<p>Nathan,<br>

Are you thoroughly confused yet?<br>

Short answer...."it's all in the glass!" Get the best you can afford and your images will show it.<br>

'nuff said?<br>

good luck - BRB</p>

<p>You are correct. I was just thinking that you may could learn something more about this lense on the other forum. Same reason I'm watching this one even though I'm a Canon guy. Good luck.<br>

BRB</p>

<p>I am also considering a used lens like this for my spare body (Canon 20D) for my son to shoot HS football. Any info that would apply to this combo would be appreciated also. I especially wouldn't want to run into AF / metering issues.<br>

Bjorn, I also posted on Bob Atkins this morning about the same thing, it is here if you'd like to monitor that forum as well:<br>

<a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/smf/index.php/topic,417.0.html">http://www.bobatkins.com/smf/index.php/topic,417.0.html</a><br>

Thanks,<br>

BRB</p>

<p>Still shooting a 20D and have about four lenses to buy (invest in) before I'm even thinking about a new body.<br>

Perfect your craft (technique) with what you have before trying to keep up w/ constantly improving (but by smaller and smaller amounts) electronics.</p>

<p>my 2cents!<br>

BRB</p><div></div>

<p>Line of the day:<br>

"we would all be better off spending our time learning to create better images than looking for better cameras."<br>

It's way easier to get caught up in the hype of this vs that than to be out taking shots, working on them, and perfecting our technique. These discussions are interesting to read, but really offer very little to the entusiast photographer other than the quote referenced above.<br>

I've got less than $750 in the outfit that took this shot - and I'm still learning.</p><div></div>

<p>sorry - double posted</p>

<p>Line of the day:<br>

"we would all be better off spending our time learning to create better images than looking for better cameras."<br>

It's way easier to get caught up in the hype of this vs that than to be out taking shots, working on them, and perfecting our technique. These discussions are interesting to read, but really offer very little to the entusiast photographer other than the quote referenced above.<br>

I've got less than $750 in the outfit that took this shot - and I'm still learning.</p>

<p>I think Jim's point is that contrary to the "kit lenses are crap" arguement is that cheap lenses CAN be useful in creating quality images within their limitations. For the newbie who WANTS to learn the technical side of photography, a "kit" lense can be useful to demonstrate the differences in DOF and shutter/ fstop/ ISO relationships. For someone who just wants nice pictures, the old "f8 and be there" rule applies nicely even with the "crap" lenses that come with most new cameras.</p>

<p>Serious gearhead at heart. I love the technical side of things. However like a previous poster, I am a financial minimalist attempting to do the mostest with the leastest.<br>

BRB</p>

<div></div>

<p>CHEER CAMP! How'd you get that gig?</p>

<p>Much good advise here. The only thing I've read I disagree with is high ISO<br>

"since you only have f/5.6 (3 stops slower than f/2), you should use 3200iso and 8seconds along with f/5.6"<br>

3200 is a recipe for major noise in a dark sky. 100 will minimize noise.<br>

I've found that focusing just shy of infinity yields sharper images.<br>

A stable platform must be priority 1. The bag of rice idea sounds interesting, I might have to try that one.<br>

I also shoot almost exclusively (at night anyway) at f/8 - f/11 as that is the sweet spot for sharpness in low to mid level zooms and gives more depth of field than wider open. Adjust shutter speed as needed to get a centered histogram - ignore the lcd display.<br>

IS definitely OFF. Use the mirror lock-up too.<br>

Good luck, when you get it right it'll be worth it!</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/9390791">http://www.photo.net/photo/9390791</a></p>

<p>I own a 20D which I bought used from a pro and it was his back-up. Had less than 3000 clicks on it. It's a much more substantial body than any of the Rebels. If the one you're considering is in good shape, it's a much better camera IMO. Also, buy the best lens you can afford for durablility and IQ sake. My $.02</p>

<p>Gary,<br>

Yes I'm familiar with the "pan blur" technique. I've shot motorsports for years. I like your cycling shots though. I've never followed it much, but it's getting pretty big in my area (Greenville SC) because George Hincappie lives here and their apparel business is based here. I'd like to go downtown and shoot the race next year when the national championships are in town again.</p>