stephane camus

Wow, thank you for the great information.

Peter, I will wait to do some testing before I contact the guy you sent me the address. I went to check out there website, it is interesting. Since I am living in Japan, I will also ask friends to see if they can find and translate more information about Fujidol & stuff.

Indeed, I looked at the time table for processing Fuji film with D76 and the time is only about 7% longer than with Fujidol, so it seems that it could be a good starting point for testing with Hp5 and Tmax, although the difference in film techology could dramatically impact this ratio... anyway, I will have fun testing this. I will let you know how it went.

Thank you!

Steph-

Hello,

I have some Fujidol-E and Super Prodol that I would like to use for

developping Tmax and Hp5 films... just for the fun.

However, I cannot find any information about time processing for these

developer when used with other films than Fuji.

It seems that they are for Japanese market only... there might be the

information somewhere, but so far I found only in Japanese.

Anybody has an idea?

Thanks!

Hello,

I just moved to Fukuoka, Japan. As I keep using extensively my M6

loaded with BW, I am starting to get lots of negatives and I am

wondering if any of you have knowlege of where I could find a photo

club or where I could use a darkroom in this city?

I am just starting my search, if anyone is interested, I can update

with the results of my quest.

Thanks to all and have a good day,

Steph-

M6 Classic, Summicron 50mm, Summicron 35mm (1979)

-

Classic, no?

It is the Canon Salon in Ginza. Subway exit A5 then second street on the right. I think you know... :)

Steph-

Hello,

This is not really a Leica question, but it seems the only apropriate

forum where I can ask this, especially since I know there are many of

you leaving in Tokyo.

So, as I was spending a little time in Tokyo today, I decided to stop

by the Leica Gallery -very interesting exhibit BTW- then I pushed to

the Canon-Salon. Here, are exposed large format photography of

beautiful japanese mountain landscape, but I was really disapointed by

the quality of the prints. It seems like these pictures were taken

with a low quality digital camera and that not much attention was

brought to the printing either; the colors were just awful.

I was very surprised since, digital or not, Canon, Leica or anything

else today, can produce much better result than this.

My very very limited skills in kanji -and Japanese in general- did not

allow me to know what was the equipment used for this exhibition and I

wonder if anyone here has seen it, or has more information.

By the way, I think the photographer definitely has skills, it is just

sad that, with today's high end technology available, he(she) cannot

get the best of it for his(her) work.

Voila, thanks for reading and if this post gets deleted for being

unrelated to the subject of the forum, I will not get mad.

I did not post it on Canon EOS forum since this forum is ONLY for EOS

technology, not general photography... :(

Steph-

Yes, refreshing post indeed. It is good to know that someone can be happy without the last digital gizmo. I do not feel alone anymore.. :P

Bon retour en France, ou l'utilisation des moufles ne s'impose que quelques jours dans l'annee!

-Steph

I see, it actually was not tightning up because I had to hold a piece at the other end of the lens, near the back element.

It is now in place... :)

I feel good now...

Thanks!

Steph-

Hello,

as I was trying to remove a filter from my 35mm Summicron (1980 -

Canada), it suddenly broke loose. So now the barrel is rotating. The

part with the aperture ring is turning 360 degres and is loose. It

looks as if the lens is about to come appart. The diaphragm is still

working and the focusing is still operating. But of course the lens

cannot function this way.

I will take it to Leica service as soon as I can, but does anyone have

an idea of how bad is the damage?

Thanks!

Steph-

Thanks for your answers.

Steph-

Hello,

I always have UV filter on my lenses, but often, I use Yellow filter

too. I take of the UV filter before I put the yellow filter .Is it

really necessary or can I stack up the UV and yellow filter together

without vignetting?

I have standard screw-in filters from Leica and Hoya. I use 50mm

summicron and 35mm summicron lenses.

Thanks!

Steph-

today, I cannot get my eyes off "Workers" from Sebastiao Salgado. Amazing pictures.

I will vertainly go back to the book store and buy other books from the same author.

Steph-

I think it is a daring and original idea. Great job.

Steph-

Thanks Richie... I used to have my girl's friend picture (how original is that!) as desktop background, now I have a stuffed turkey.

Please, see no relation... I am going to have a hard time enough justifying this sudden change of mood. :p

Steph-

Hello,

I have found old gelatin silver prints from 1914.

There are some Negative BW, Positive BW and Positive Color.

I can work in a traditional darkroom for the BW ones, but I am trying

to find a good scanning alternative for the color positive.

So I am just asking if you might know of a good technique or a good

flatbedded scanner which can handle this smoothly.

The scanner I have is a piece of crap, just good enough for scanning

BW documents and I was really disappointed when I tried the Gelatin

Print on it.

Thanks in advance for all your good hints.

Stephane-

This picture is very... "vernacular" :)

Happy thanks giving to all my american friends with whom I have shared so many great years. Now I am far away and I still do not like the turkey, but I will use this picture as desktop background (if the photographer does not object) for this special day.

Steph-

Basically, I follow the instructions of Kodak.

I use a 1 litre (roughly 1/4 of a gallon) solution at 1:4.

I developp at 24degres (Celcius)

Every 4 rolls, I add 1 minute to the developping time. This is on a base of 12 rolls, starting at 6 minutes (for Tmax 400).

Here is how is goes:

1 liter of 1:4 Tmax solution.

Developping Temp: 24 degres

Rolls 1 to 4 -> 6 minutes

Rolls 5 to 8 -> 7 minutes

Rolls 8 to 12 -> 8 minutes

---

So far, I am extremely happy with this solution.

Steph-

I think someone who is looking for a lower priced rebel film-camera is lucky today. Indeed, with the digital-slr taking all the attention of the market, canon is putting a great technology into its film slr at very very low price!

Look at the flash system, and -I think it is important- the maximum shutter speed. I personaly thinks that 1/2000th is a little bit short especially is you like shooting with more sensitive film like 400Iso, but it is a personal idea.

Make a little chart and compare the Ti and the Elan7 (N, NE or a used one...).

The Elan is more expensive, but it is a camera that has an excellent -and justified- reputation, very silent and certainly more 'pro' than the Rebels.

If you find a used one in good shape, go for it.

Good luck in your search.

Steph-

Hello,

I shoot a lot of slides and I have never been satisfied, filter or not, with the results under fluorescent light.

The best solution I have found so far is to make a "white balance" on photoshop, after a scan. I scan the green casted slide, I open the levels, and I use the little drop-thingy (I forgot the name...) that corresponds to "set White Point". Then I point to a white spot somewhere on the picture. I do not say this will bring real colors back, but it will sure be better than the awful green cast. Well, this is maybe not a very 'Pro' solution, but so far, I have been happy with it. It might be also possible to do the same operation at the time of the scan which actually might be better.

I hope this helps you.

About using a tugsten film, I would not recommend it. Although I have never tried it, these films are calibrated for colder (more yellow) light. If you use them under normal light, you will have a blue cast. So I guess a green fluorescent cast is going to be realy bad on this kind of film.

Happy shooting!

Steph-

My mistake!!!!

:(

Depends which battery you take. The one I gave the reference, you need only one battery.

Here is the info...

Two (2) SR44(76S) 1.55v silver batteries or one (1) DL76 lithium

Steph-

If you want to order at B&H: <BR>

<a href=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=details_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=19195&is=REG> B&H M6 Battery </a>

<BR>

Cheers.

You need two batteries: 2L76 (DL1/3n) 3v Lithium Battery.

Steph-

I bought my M6 there. Smooth transaction, great camera, fare price, fast shipping, nice people.

I highly recommend it.

Steph-