yaacov_koren

<p>Hello.<br>

i have an A12 magazine, during photographing i payed attention that the leather cover<br>

slip and going out.<br>

in what kind of glue i can glue it again?<br>

thanks.<br>

Yaacov</p>

<p>Hello.<br>

i own Hasselblad 501cm with A12 magazin.<br>

when i load a new film to the magazine i pay attention that<br>

the red/White magazine indicator start to indicate the film advance in approximately<br>

frame number 6.<br>

is this normal or the indicator start to show the frames advance from the first frame?</p>

<p>regards.<br>

Yaacov</p>

<p>Hello.<br>

i"m trying to buy a chemicals to assemble the D-23 for developing a film by my self.<br>

the salesman in the chemical store say that the ECOL chemical is the same as the METOl.<br>

is someone hear about this ?<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

Yaacov.</p>

Hello.

i'm going to buy the 777 developer.

is some know, it is possible to divide the powder to make

a part of size of the powder ?

i don't wont to use the whole of powder stock.

Thank's, Yaacov

Hello.

recently i purchased a Nikon "FM2n" for a backup camera.

when i connect the flash, the flash ready light red lamp indicator in the view

eye remind blinking in every status on the Shutter Speed Dial.

pleas help me to solve the problem if it is.

Thanks in advance.

Yaacov

Hello.

i tried to photo in my home studio with an external flash.

the film ASA is 125.

my camera is Nikon F90x (cannot set the shutter to intermediate size)

the light meter measure f/13 when i set the speed to 125 on the light meter.

waht is the correct seting i nead to set ?

can i compensate by setting the +/- ?

please help to understand.

Yes, i shoot Film.

it was done with KODAK PORTRA 160.

the character was more bright then usualy, comparing other pictures

when i shoot in a white background.

Hello.

i'm new in studio lighting.

i have a studio flash with assembled soft box.

i stand the flash about 3-4 meters from the object.

the background was a black sheet.

i made the photo with 28mm lens.

the camera distance from the object was between 2-3 meters.

i measure the light with light meter (incident).

i took the object in full figure and the background was

the most object in the photograph.

the problem was:

overexpose !

in another experience in the same pose but the background was white.

the expose was correct.

is there a deference measure depending the background?

Hello.

buyed a new Sekonic L 358.

i set the dip switches 1 2 3 4 to ON.

i set the meter to read a studio flash.

i set the meter as ISO 125, and my desire shutter speed to 125.

the meter reading resault (in incident position) was 13.

please help me to understand what is it mean this value.

One more think,

i usualy dry off the film (after washing the film) with a wet tissue and after that with a dry tissue.

Hello.

pleas if someone know about this problem.

i don't know if the problem is from my developing process or from the

lab.

i payed attention that in my print photos, i have a few little

scratching or white points (usualy in the dark background).

usualy i shoot and develop with:

Ilford FP4+

HC-110 Dil B (Eropean ver, 1:9),

Jobo developer.

Hello.

i'm very interesting in the SIGMA 20-40mm F2.8 EX DG ASPHERICAL lens,

i own a film SLR camera.

is this lens can be suite for this camera ?

thanks in advance.

Yaacov.

Hello.

i developed my B&W film by my self and i send the film to printing in

the lab.

1. i shoot with Ilford FP4+ and rated it in the camera as 100.

2. i developed with HC-110 dilution B - 1+9 (temperature 20 celsius),

Fixer 1+4.

the stop buth (water) and the Fixer temperature was directly from the

tap (temperature about 24 celsius).

i act exactly as the order says.

chemicals - 9 minute (maybe i made a mistake and it was 10 minute,

Stop bath - 2 minute,

Fixer - 4 minute,

Water - about 9 minute and chage the water every minute.

the resaults was over contrast!

(about 2 or 3 steps more, though very fine grain in the printing

results, i think if the temprature was over 20 celsius the results

was very grainy).

is someone can tell me what wrong with this process causing the over

contrast results?

thanks in advance,

Yaacov.

James,

i used the HC-110 (i think i made a mistake to start with it)

in dilution B, the combination was 30 ml of chemical and 270 ml of water. (1+9 as i understand)

i developed the Ilford FP4+ in about 9 minute.

i don't remeber the fixer type but i remember that the dilution was 1+4, 30 ml of fixer and 240 ml of water.

Craig,

Failed it mean, the frames on the film look like they burnt, they looks very dark.

any way, thanks i'll try again.

hello.

i start to develop B&W films.

is it important to keep the temperature of the stop bath (water) on

68f and the fixer on 68f too?

i seen an instruction of some tanks that it must be.

on some tanks it is not mentioned.

i failed with the first developing,

it is possible because i used a usualy water as a stop buth?

thanks, Yaacov

hello,

i own AF-S Zoom-Nikkor ED 17-35mm f/2.8D IF.

when i use the auto focus and the lens try hardly to focus

by moving back and forth i heard a whistle.

by focusing immediately, the lens is silent.

is it normaly or i have a problem in the lens system

Hello.

it is possible to reuse the HC-110 chemical

after the firs developing?

thanks in advance:

Yaacov.

Hello.

in B/W developing film.

as i must to keep the right temperature of the chemical liquid in

the tank.

How can i measure the temperatue of the liquid in the tank during

the developing process.

O.K guys

i understand that.

thanks.

Thanks Donald,

but i have the old version of tank (a metal)

what is the process in this case.

Hello,

i'm beginner in developing B/W film.

please if someone can answer me.

when i turn off the light and darken the room to start the developing

process.

am i must to pour the developer chemical and stop water and so

on . . . in the darken room?,

is it possible to open the small cap on the top to pour the liquids

under light on?

where is the time that i can turn on the light?

thanks in advance.

Yaacov

Please help me to understand.

i'm using a light meter and one studio flash for portrait

photographing.

how i setup my camera when i measure the light incident on the

subject.

what is the distance position for the camera standing by reading the

incident meter results

what is the difference of incident and reflected measuring light

Thanks in advance.

Yaacov.

Hello.

please if someone can explain what is the differences between

measure the subject light reflecting, from the camera position and

the measure the subject from the subject position itself when the

strob flashing.

thanks in advance.

Yaacov.