andre_noble5

Better overexposed than under exposed. At least she erred in the right direction.

<p>B+W for expensive very lenses since they are stronger more likely to protect than Hoya.</p>

<p>Thats ridiculously contaminated with fungus, get rid of it.</p>

<p>You guys got me curious so found this answer on the Adobe FAQ's for creative cloud:</p> <p><strong>"Yes. Creative Cloud desktop applications can be downloaded and installed on multiple computers, regardless of operating system. However, activation is limited to two machines per individual associated with the membership. See the <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/eulas/tou_creativecloud.html" target="_blank">terms of use</a> for more information. Learn how to <a href="http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/activation-deactivation-products.html">deactivate</a> a Creative Cloud license on a machine."</strong></p>

<p>Hello,</p> <p>I have CS5 for my 2.3GHZ Quad Core 8GB Dell PC w/ Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 5.7.</p> <p>I have Macbook Pro 2.5 Quad Core 16GB notebook w/ only Adobe Lightroom 5.7.</p> <p>1) I want to use a Photoshop that I can conveniently work with the RAW files of my Nikon D610 with out resorting to the Adobe DNG converter standalone app.</p> <p>2) I also would also like to use the adaptive wide angle filter of CS6 or CC to staighten the bowed lines of my <a href="http://andrejesuslopeznoble.phootime.com/photo/8lhtuk/o0h0o95s">Wide angle panoramic stitches.</a><br /> <br />Which of the following should I invest in?:</p> <p>A) The <strong>Photoshop CS6</strong> download for students and Teachers (I latter) at <strong>$300</strong> upfront and then choose one platform (PC vs Mac) - as you cant download both for the $300?</p> <p>Adobe RAw support in CS6 goes up to D610 and D810 support via Camera RAW 8.6, but won't be compatible with upcoming unreleased Nikon cameras.</p> <p>B) Buy the basic <strong>Photoshop CC</strong> Subscription at <strong>$10 per month in perpetuity</strong>?</p> <p>sub question: If I buy the basic Photoshop CC Subscription at $10 per month, will Adobe allow me to have it on my PC Desktop & Mac Notebook at same same for the $10/month fee?</p> <p>Thanks for info/suggestions.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks, Shun for the heads up by the way. I purchased my D610 on Oct 19. I just got in under the wire.</p>

I called B&H first thing this morning. I plead my case and the first guy took notes. Then a second guy called me an hour later. They not only honored the $400 70-200 2.8 discount, but also honored the $200 discount on the D610 body AND threw in a free remote. So in essence I got a $600 discount on the lens I have always wanted but beyond my reach. I know this sounds corny, but B&H has been like family.

<p>I bought a D610 from B&H 4 weeks ago w/o the special, would they honor a retroactive discount lens purchase I wonder?</p>

<p>I am successfully using Nikon Scan for my 9000 scanner on Windows 8.1.</p>

If you put your eyes close to screen and look at Guy ' s panorama, you will appreciate how nice it looks despite its small size.

@Ellis, it's good to see you still on these boards, I recognize your name from way back. Thanks for your input.

@walt: I wanted to "buy right, buy once" is the reason for buying multirow.. Also that's encouraging the I can use my 300 2.8 as that lens is phenomenally sharp. @ Mike, adding a leveling head, circle dove plate and L plate for my D610 grip and CA sales tax it was close to $1600. I decided to cut out soft drinks to help pay the CC. :-)

@kari: sweeping vistas of seascapes, rural landscapes, industrial landscapes, architectural panoramas. And others I have not thought of yet...

<p>Awesome to hear. Searched Googled high and low yesterday but yours did not pop up. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hello, I enjoy shooting panoramics of landscape and cityscapes and then stitching in Photoshop. I have used in past Arca Swiss ball head with a 20-35 Nikkor Zoom, the zoom since sold.<br> I decided to treat myself to a professional <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Multi-Row-Pano-Package.html">Really Right Stuff panoramic pivoting and tilting gimbal head</a> that can shoot multiple row panoramic with the lens rotation aligned over nodal point so as to avoid parallax...<br> <br />My only experience is shooting pano stitch with <strong>wide angle lenses</strong>.<br> However a couple of photographers suggest using a <strong>longer focal lengt</strong>h such as 135mm when shooting stitched panos. The examples they showed looked better than the panos shot with wide angle lens from same position.<br> <br /> will be using a FX D610 body .....</p> <p><strong>Here are my current lenses:</strong><em><br /></em><br> 300 2.8 <br> 105 VR<br> 85 1.8 D<br> 58 1.4 Voigtlander<br> 11-16 Tokina DX format (can shoot FX at 16mm)<br> <br /> Question:<br> I am seriously considering ordering one or two of the following lenses for the Pano and my other uses (portraiture, landscape, events)<br> I am considering adding one or two of the following lenses:<br> 24 PCE Tilt Shift (either Nikon or Samyang)<br />24 1.4G<br />28 1.8 AFS<br />85 1.4 G (to upgrade my portrait lens)<br />70-200 AFS II (I saw two photographers using this lens with RRS gimbal for panos - believe it or not)<br> Any photographers who use a specialized pano gimbal set up - your feedback on which lens will be most appreciated. Thanks</p> <p><em> </em></p>

<p>Hello, I am considering getting a Nikon PC-E 24mm to use on my new Nikon D610 body. IS there anyone out there who has both of these who can report if the flash housing overhang interferes with vertical shift and by how much, if any? Thanks.</p>

<p>@ Al: Yes it happens. That's one consideration when buying these lenses. What smart guys do is sell there and upgrade each time a new version comes out.</p> <p>The best strategy is to buy one when new model comes out and then implement this strategy.</p>

<p>did you call them: http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/ ?</p>

<p>If it is metallic or paint chip or dust you're ok. As long as it is not a fungus growth you're good.</p>

<p>Get the <strong>110mm 2.8 lens</strong>. One of the best portrait lenses ever.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/129489-50-year-old-kodak-plus-x-roll-still-works.html">Another 50 year old roll of Plus X.</a></p>

<p>Buying one of these 300 400 500 600 pro lenses (as an individual) <strong>when they first come</strong> out makes the most economic sense as Nikon will stop supporting them with spare parts a few years after they are upgraded to the next design.</p> <p>so the lenses 400 and above are hard to justify if you are just an occasional weekend warrior photographer.</p>

Hello, I put a thread many months back about a problem I was having with focus error after I had a Nikon 300 2.8 afs serviced. However the issue appears to be due to the Nikon D300 body's discrepancy between the lens flange-sensor distance and the lens flange- focusing screen distance.: for example, carefully manually focusing my new Nokton 58 SLII @ f1.4 on my Nikon D300 reveals a serious front focus issue in the resulting images. This repeats itself over a variety of focusing distances. Its a mechanical issue since AF is not involved. Furthermore, the green focus assist dot is agreeing with my eyes, so its not a human focus error. Has anyone else had similar lens flange to sensor distance misalignment? Was Nikon able to fix it to your satisfaction? At what charge? Thanks in advance.