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stefan heymann

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Posts posted by stefan heymann

    How to make a HC110 stock?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Here's another interesting link with HC-110 related information:

    <a href="http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html">http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html</a></p>

     

    <p><b>Dilutions</b></p>

    <table border="1">

    <tr>

    <th>Dilution</th>

    <th>From Syrup</th>

    <th>From Stock Solution</th>

    <th>From Ilfotec LC29</th>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Stock Solution</td>

    <td>1+3</td>

    <td>--</td>

    <td>--</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>A</b></td>

    <td>1+15</td>

    <td>1+3</td>

    <td>1+9</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>B</b></td>

    <td>1+31</td>

    <td>1+7</td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>C</b></td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>1+4</td>

    <td>1+11,5</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>D</b></td>

    <td>1+39</td>

    <td>1+9</td>

    <td>1+24</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>E</b></td>

    <td>1+47</td>

    <td>1+11</td>

    <td>1+29</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>F</b></td>

    <td>1+79</td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>1+49</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>G</b></td>

    <td>1+119</td>

    <td>1+29</td>

    <td>1+74</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>H</b></td>

    <td>1+63</td>

    <td>1+15</td>

    <td>1+39</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Minimum Amount</td>

    <td>3 ml</td>

    <td>12 ml</td>

    <td>4,8 ml</td>

    </tr>

    </table>

    <p>(Ilford Ilfotec LC29 is a pre-diluted (<b>L</b>ow <b>C</b>oncentrate) version (1+0,6) of Ilfotec HC, which is Ilford's HC-110 clone)</p>

    My "new" 501 CM kit -- thoughts

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Paul, if you worry about the CB lens: I compared it twice directly to a CFE lens. I am unable to see any difference in the resulting pictures, even with a strong loupe. The f-stop ring on the CFE is built somewhat more solid (metal instead of plastics), but this won't affect your pictures.

    Hasselblad H1 - A real dream machine.

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    CPeter, I don't think you can or should compare the H1 to the V system cameras. The H1, with its motor drive, autofocus and prism finder, is a really quick camera which is perfect for shooting people or other moving subjects. When you want to shoot landscapes from a tripod, a "V" Hasselblad is probably the better choice.<br>

    <br>

    In fact, the only thing, which is compatible between the H and V Hasselblads is the dove tail tripod adapter ;-)<br>

    <br>

    I had an H1 for a <a href="http://www.stefanheymann.de/foto/h1test/h1test-en.htm">one week test in 2003</a>, and I am still missing it.

    light leak or what? Please Help

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <i>The light leak is on the left side of the image, that means it's coming in on the right side of the camera. To me, that rules out the dark slide slot -- it's on the wrong side.</i><br>

    <br>

    I don't know about Kiev cameras, but on Hasselblads you will also see the light streaks on the <i>left</i> side of the images, which is the opposite of the dark slide slot. On a Hasselblad A12 magazine, the drak slide slot is about 2.2 Millimeters (0.09") above the film surface. The light comes in through the slot, gets <i>reflected</i> by the opposite edge of the magazine and, from there, falls onto the film<br>

    <br>

    AFAIK Kiev cameras are built quite similarly, so maybe it's the same here. So you should tape the dark slide slot (or test if that improves the situation).<br>

    <br>

    Best Regards, Stefan

    Hasselblad 501 CM and 80mm CB

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Frank, I have a 501CM with the 80mm CB lens. I once compared the CB with a friend's 80mm CFE (2 shots, shot directly after each other, same body, same film): I was unable to find any differences in the resulting transparencies.

     

    The CB is a cheaper version of the CFi/CFE lens (6 lenses vs. 7, plastic filter bayonet), but keep in mind that the CB is still a Carl Zeiss lens. As Zeiss is a German company i guess the "B" stands for "billiger" [cheaper] ;-)

     

    The 501CM kit comes with the standard Acute Matte D screen, so the finder is very bright. I replaced it with a split field grid screen which maces focusing even easier.

    Difference between Acute matte and Acute Matte D??

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I have an Acute Matte D (delivered with my 501CM kit) without split image and a non-D Acute Matte with split image and grid lines. Believe it or not, the non-D screen is significantly brighter and easier to focus. Perhaps the screens that come with the 501CM kit are of a cheaper make than the others that you have to pay big $$$/��� for?

    Strange spelling...

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Tense. Arggh! I can only hope that my former English teacher doesn't read my posts here ... ;-)

     

    (But anyway, from all the things I have learned (I learnt? Uggh) in school, English and Maths are those I need the most IRL)

    Strange spelling...

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    This is a good point to say "Thank You" to all the native English speakers out there who are so tolerant for the mistakes of a non-native speaker like me.

     

    Most or all of the words that Patric has mentioned in his original post have been invented in Germany. And there the stress is on the last syllable: Planàr, Tessàr, Rodinàl.

     

    I don't have problems with there, their or they're. My main problem is to use the right time (or is that "using the right time"?)

    www.hasselbladpro.com

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Mike, what do you mean with "the other sites are lacking at best"? I don't think that photo.net sells my e-mail. Compared to Nikon or Canon, there are only a few Hasselbladians out there. So far, they have been served well by photo.net's Medium Format Forum here, IMHO. And I don't think this will change in the future.

     

    So why do you see the need for a new forum? Sorry, for 17 new forums?

     

    Regards, Stefan

    MF for artistic purposes?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Steinar, the Hasselblad (I assume you mean the V-Series) will of course give you much more details and better tonality and sharpness with large prints. Some thoughts:

     

    When you don't use a flash, a Hasselblad SLR is not quite a good hand camera. I know that there are people who claim they can shoot a 80 mm lens a 1/60 s, but I don't manage to get sharp pictures under 1/250 s. So I use a tripod every time I use available light.

     

    As stated above, the corresponding lens to the 35 mm lens in 35mm would be the 60 mm lens for Hasselblad 6x6, not the 80 mm.

     

    Note that depth of field for a 80 mm MF lens is the same as for an 80 mm Nikon lens. So in MF, you always have less depth of field with the corresponding focal length. When you say that the surrounding of the people you photograph is import, you will probably need an even stronger wide angle lens.

     

    With the 80 mm lens you cannot take tight head shots. The nearest distance for this lens is 0.9 meters.

     

    And yes, the Hasselblad demands a slower approach. But that also makes you react slower, especially when you photograph people. When you want to work almost as fast as with your Nikon SLR but with the MF film size advantage, then you should consider one of the 645 AF cameras like the Hasselblad H1 (or Contax, Mamiya, Pentax).

    Which tripod for my Hassi?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I just wanted to give you an update: I finally got the G1226/G1377M combination. I use the tripod&ballhead together with my 501CM/80mm set (sometimes with a 2x teleconverter).

     

    I own them for about 2 years now and I must say that I am very happy with the combination. The Gitzo is a very high quality, very rigid tripod. It took me some time to get used to the rings. The G1377M ballhead is very good, it has a friction lock and a panoramic tilt.

    Tripod for Hasselblad 503cw?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I have a Gitzo 1226 tripod with the Gitzo 1377M ball head and use it for my 501CM (landscape, portraits). I have an 80 mm lens and a teleconverter. I am very pleased with this combination. The weight is reasonable. The 1226 has 4 leg parts so it is quite handy when the legs are not extended. For landscape, I always use mirror lockup. I probably wouldn't have to, but it makes me feel better ;-)
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