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stefan heymann

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Posts posted by stefan heymann

    HC-110

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>The number in the Covington paper has been 3 ml up until April this year. Based on a question in a German lab forum we (Michael Covington and me) did some calculations of the minimum amount required, based on Kodak's current <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf">Technical Data Sheet for HC-110</a>. We came out at around 6 ml and so we changed the paper to reflect that.

     

    <p>Kodak is very probably on the safe side with 6 ml (as was Agfa with saying that you need 10 ml of Rodinal concentrate per film). However, a lot of people say that 5 ml of Rodinal is sufficient, so 3 ml of HC-110 syrup will also probably be sufficient.

     

    <p>It also depends on how much there is to develop—when you take photographs of large bright areas (which will become large black areas on the film), more developer is needed.

     

    <p>I would also like to repeat that it's not completely correct to name the 500ml package (CAT 500 1466) "European". You get the normal, thick, gooey syrup when you buy the usual 1 Litre bottle over here in Europe. It's just that 500ml package that is different (and is not mentioned at all in Kodak's HC-110 data sheet)—but that's rare, also in Europe.

    Acros 100 question

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>You mean <a href="http://www.schwarzweiss-magazin.de/swmag_wollstein_28.htm" target="_blank">this one?</a>. It's about Acros and Maco PO100c, both orthopanchromatic films. It's a bit long to translate but if you have any questions arising from an automatic translation I'll help.

     

    <p>There's the photo of the girl at the river at the bottom of this page: The jacket is glaring red, the tights are dark blue. With a panchromatic film, the jacket would have been rendered a lot lighter. As it's an orthochromatic film (PO100c), the jacket is dark, but not completely black. The skirt is somewhat darker than a gray card.

     

    <p>About Acros, Wollstein says: "Fuji Neopan 100 Acros is a great film that gives extraordinarily high resolution, detail and fine grain. The differences to usual pan films like Ilford Delta 100 or Kodak T-Max 100 are very small. To my understanding of the term, this is not an <i>ortho</i>panchromatic film." [unauthorized translation from me]

    Acros 100 question

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>I have learned that Ortho*pan*chromatic has a reduced sensitivity for red light whereas Orthochromatic is red-blind. Panchromatic "sees" red as it does for the other (visible) colors.</p>

     

    <p>The <a href="http://www.fujifilmusa.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/bin/Neopan400.pdf">Data Sheet for Fuji Neopan 400</a> states: Color Sensitivity: Panchromatic (also directly on the first page). So there must be a difference in the sensitivity for red.</p>

    Ilford FP4 125 in HC110?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>It's not the European HC-110 concentrate that has a different concentration. It's just the 500 mL bottle (CAT 500 1466, which appears to be only sold in Europe) that has another concentration. The usual 1 Liter bottles sold in Europe have the same syrup as everywhere.

     

    <p>This table shows the different dilutions for Syrup, Stock, 500mL Concentrate and Ilford LC29 (which is a pre-diluted version of Ilfotec HC, which is Ilford's HC-110 clone):</p>

     

    <table border="1">

    <tr>

    <th>Dilution</th>

    <th>from Syrup</th>

    <th>from Stock Solution</th>

    <th>from 500 ml Concentrate</th>

    <th>from Ilfotec LC29</th>

    <th>Remarks</th>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Stock Solution</td>

    <td>1+3</td>

    <td>=</td>

    <td>N.A.</td>

    <td>N.A.</td>

    <td>Stock Solution is mixed 1+3. It is not as thick as the concentrate so it is easier to mix.

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>A</b></td>

    <td>1+15</td>

    <td>1+3</td>

    <td>1+4</td>

    <td>1+9</td>

    <td>Short development times, fine grain, low acutance</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>B</b></td>

    <td>1+31</td>

    <td>1+7</td>

    <td>1+9</td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>The most common dilution

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>C</b></td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>1+4</td>

    <td>1+5.25</td>

    <td>1+11.5</td>

    <td> </td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>D</b></td>

    <td>1+39</td>

    <td>1+9</td>

    <td>1+11.5</td>

    <td>1+24</td>

    <td> </td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>E</b></td>

    <td>1+47</td>

    <td>1+11</td>

    <td>1+14</td>

    <td>1+29</td>

    <td> </td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>F</b></td>

    <td>1+79</td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>1+24</td>

    <td>1+49</td>

    <td> </td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>G</b></td>

    <td>1+119</td>

    <td>1+29</td>

    <td>1+36.5</td>

    <td>1+74</td>

    <td>Unofficial.

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td><b>H</b></td>

    <td>1+63</td>

    <td>1+15</td>

    <td>1+19</td>

    <td>1+39</td>

    <td>Unofficial. Twice the dilution of "B", about twice the development times of "B".

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Min. Amount</td>

    <td>3 ml</td>

    <td>12 ml</td>

    <td>9.6 ml</td>

    <td>4.8 ml</td>

    <td>Minimum amount of developer to use per film (24x36, 120, 8x10")</td>

    </tr>

    </table>

    Lens for 501 CM

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    When the 501CM came out in 1997, it came with the "C-Planar" from the 501C. After that, it came with the CB-Planar, which indeed has one lens element less than the CF/CFE/C-Planar versions. When the CB lens line was discontinued, the 501CM came with the CFE-Planar.

    Am I overdeveloping my TX400 in HC-110

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>From Michael Covington's <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/" target="_blank">Unofficial HC-110 Resource Page</a>:

     

    <p><i>After further thought, I suspect that there really isn't much difference between 3.5 minutes and 5 minutes. The reason? This is almost entirely within the induction time (the time taken to start development). Results with development times this short are notoriously irreproducible and I recommend higher dilutions.</i>

    Nothing on negs

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>Gloria, do you store your Ilfotec HC undiluted? This is important to keep the long shelf life. Undiluted HC (or Kodak HC-110, BTW) is a syrup.

     

    <p>What you could do to test if the developer is still working:

    <ul>

    <li>mix a small amount of HC+Water 1+31

    <li>in white light, put a small peace of film in the dilution

    <li>it should become black in a few minutes

    </ul>

    Ilford HP5+ 400 in HC-110

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>The usual dilution for HC-110 is dilution "B" (1+31 from syrup). Dilution "A" (1+15 from syrup) is more solvent so it will give you somewhat finer grain for the expense of sharpness/acutance (but, as you see, also a too short development time).

     

    <p>I suggest you start with a development time of 5 to 6 minutes in dilution B, continuous agitation during the first minute and then 3 inversions every minute (20C/68F).

     

    <p>If the development times turn out too short (everything under 5 minutes is too short), you can try dilution "H" (1+63 from syrup) and double the development time for the first test.

     

    <p>You should also read <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html" target="_blank">Michael Covington's Unofficial HC-110 Resource Page</a> and <a href="http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html" target="_blank">Greg Mironchuk's page about HC-110</a>

    HC-110

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Geraldine, 1+31 from concentrate is the usual dilution (named "B"). When you teach kids, you probably use Kodak Tri-X (400TX) or Ilford HP5 Plus, development time for these is 6.5 minutes at 20C/68F, with 3 inversions every minute. That should give you good negatives to work with.

     

    Another tip: Set the ISO setting of your light meter to 250 or 320 instead of 400, this will give more detail in shadow areas.

    Can't get rid of light leak :(

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    The "usual" light leak can be seen on the opposite side (the one with the "V" marks): the light that comes through the light seal slot gets reflected and diffused on the film.

     

    The light seal itself is above the film surface so this is not light coming through the slider slot. If it is light, however, it comes from the same side as the slider slot. *But* shouldn't it come in a right angle then?

     

    Marcus, did you take a close look at the film? Is there really no mechanical damage to the film like a bend?

    Pan F 50 120 and which developer?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Andy,

    yes, 4 minutes is too short. Development time should be at least 5 minutes to get repeatable results.

     

    Rodinal: yes, we are talking about millimeters here. You need at least 10 ml of Rodinal concentrate for one film, with a dilution of 1+50 this means you will have 510 ml of working solution.

     

    There will be no streaks and no developer exhaustion if ou use at least 10 ml of Rodinal concentrate per (135 or 120) film. Agitation every 30 or 60 seconds.

     

    Inversion: Yes, the solution goes back and forth. That's what inversion agitation is about: mix the developer. I don't know the Patterson tanks, but I don't think there will be a loss of significant amounts. There should be a lid on the tank though ;-)

     

    Why do people love Rodinal: It's easy, it doesn't die and it has this special tonality and "bite".

    Problem mounting A12

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p><i>> Does the dark slide actually engage something in the back that allows the button to move its full distance?</i>

    <p>Yes. You can see and perhaps fix this when you remove the plate from the back (9 screws, easy to do, nothing to break) and look what happens when you insert the darkslide.

    <p>This photo shows what you will see. The black hook at the top left is responsible for blocking the handle when there is no dark slide inserted.

    <img src="http://www.stefanheymann.de/501cm/magazinschieber-1.jpg" alt="Open A12">

    Developer characteristics

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Andre,<br>

    Kodak HC-110 (aka Ilford Ilfotec HC / LC29) is a great developer for Ilford HP5+. It is a liquid developer which has very good keeping qualities. You can find more information about it here <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a> and here <a href="http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html">http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html</a>.

     

    <p>Agfa Rodinal is known for its distinct tonality and great acutance (sharpness), though it gives somewhat larger grain. Which makes it mostly suitable for 100 ASA films and below (PanF+, FP4+). Rodinal is also a concentrate that is well-known for its keeping qualities. The concentrate becomes a dark brown over time but that doesn't hurt with this developer.

     

    <p>I heard several reports of Ilfosol S dying a sudden death. So it seems really good for you to search a good developer now.

    APX100 vs. Acros 100....why so grainy?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I am unable to get decent scans off APX100 developed in Rodinal. I always get a lot of grain and strange gray tones. However, APX100 is my primary film in the 100 ASA class because the wet prints are just great.

     

    The recommended time for APX100 in Rodinal 1+50, 20C is 17 minutes. I rate it at 64 ASA. Maybe your film is underdeveloped with 9 minutes?

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