bill a.
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Posts posted by bill a.
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My favorite would be a used SB20... not large, but high enough off the body to remove red-eye, full TTL compatability with the FE2, manual tilt/bouce and manual zoom setting on the head, good output, not too expensive ($40-60 US on the bay)
If you are planning to upgrade someday (to a higher level film, or a digital, camera), you may want to look at a higher model. If so, a nice used SB-24, 25.... something in that range.
Others will likely have completely different opinions... :-)
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Thank you for posting the link. Despite reading the manual a couple of times, I must say I am still confused (must be my week to be thick).
There is an exposure offset setting on the flash, but if I am reading the manual correctly, it appears to be adjusting the entire image exposure via the flash.
I am looking for a "balanced fill control", similar to what is on the SB-24, where I can dial down the fill, but leave the ambient exposure alone.
Unless this is the "new" terminology for "balanced fill"?
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It looks like I can from some of the images I have found of the interface, but
I wanted to be sure. Can anyone who owns the SB-27 confirm you can dial in the
balanced fill flash compensation (like you can with say, a SB-24)?
Thanks,
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At least you could find one. We Hexar RF owners are in a bit of a pickle with these. Nice job, Matt.
Did 15mm put it inside the tube, or on top? I wonder if there is any eyepiece we could find to fit the threads -- remove the glass and use it to hold the lens on?
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I will likely sell my 50 1.4 :-)
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A couple of other things to consider.... if the occasional street shot is important, and therefore AF is important, the F100 is noticably faster and quieter AF. I love the 8008s, but i think of it as an FE2 with focus assist, spot metering and balanced fill flash support. If you plan to use AF a lot, get the F100. With the lithium cell holder, it is also lighter than the 8008s.
Also, manual lenses are easier to use for landscape photography where you are conscious of the DOF (depth of field)... the Nikon manual focus lenses actually have usable DOF scales on them, versus the AF lenses which usually have 2 "dots".
You can get a nice 8008s for $50 to $75 on the bay... $350 seems to be the going rate for the F100.
(I own both, btw)
Bill
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Both are great cameras, but for "landscapes" I would rather have a body that has mirror lock-up and the ability to do very long exposures easily (like a FE2, F3, or F4)
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Photography is 90% being there with a camera in your hand. :-)
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http://www.johnshawphoto.com/equipment.htm
hmmmmm.... I'm surprised at the lack of primes. John was another one in his early books who used a 24, 50, and 85 or 105 -- I guess the zoom quality is finally getting there.
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Well, I was thinking primes in the 20 to 50 range, not 300 to 600. :-)
Most days I'm good with an FE2 and a 50 1.4 AIS, but when my 2-year-old is running around, having a F100 and the AF version is nice (especially when it is a one-handed system)... the N90s noise makes her stop what's she's doing. :-)
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I don't think there are any AF-s primes, are there? :-)
I like the F100 AF motor... quiet, torque-y. Thought there might be chance it was used on one of the newer N-series bodies.
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Agreed. Whenever I feel a bout of Nikon G.A.S. coming on, I re-read that chapter.
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I have a love/hate relationship with the F100.
The negatives have been discussed before, but what I do love is the quiet, fast
AF motor (compared to the high-pitch gear noise of, say, the N90s).
What other Nikon film bodies share that motor? I assume the F5... what else?
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That must have been his "current" system before he passed. If you read "Mountain Light", which has a lot of older images, he talks alot about (and the images have credits to) the F3, 20, 24, 55 macro, and the 75-150 AIS.
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One of mine went to NJ two weeks before K-M was sold. I was getting a mid-roll reset (the camera would revert to counter 0 and advance three frames mid roll)... they turned it around in two weeks, no issues.
No idea where i would send it now. Has anyone (in the US) sent one to Sony since the purchase?
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re: weight -- get the battery holder that uses the 2 lithium 3V cells -- better "life", lower weight.
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Set the custom function (don't remember which one) to put the aperture control on the lens ap ring, and not on the finger wheel up front. Other than that, have a ball.
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I noticed that the main photo.net page says:
"For Nostalgia buffs: Film Camera Resources"
Nostalgia? Bad enough I have to listen to the oldies station to hear _my_
music...
And finally, at the main Forum Page:
* Leica and Rangefinders: fiesty bunch of guys wondering why a $5000 camera
won't automatically take a great photo.
No spin there, eh? :-)
Have a good weekend.
Bill
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Once he or she gets walking, and you become a pack mule (stroller, diaper bag, sippy cup, etc...), you will really want to have something that is one-handed. Speaking from experience, I second the "nice" p&s idea.
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Hexar RF, 35 Summicron, Reala
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Your co-visitors weren't co-operating, were they? :-)
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What's the difference between the Nikon AS-17 and the Vivitar "equivalent" of the AS-4, which has an extra pin the AS-4 does not, and would supposedly support TTL? Is that an "old wives tale"? The AS-17 has an ISO setting on it, does it not?
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Not as small, but I have seen 8008s' go for $50-$70. The N6000/F601M (manual focus) is dirt cheap as well if you can find one without a broken door latch (which is fixable).
Just curious, can you point me to an article or link re: 8000 laptops? -- would like it as a reference if they start that policy here in the US (laptops being checked in)
Duty free at Kansai Airport
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
Not sure where you are located, but my experience so far traveling in Asia (from the US) is that the only place where I could get camera items less expensive than in the US has been Hong Kong.
(for me, this includes Taiwan, Japan, and Korea). That includes duty free and just shopping around town. Maybe I missed the good stores.