bill a.

There is no diopter seeting (you have to install/screw-in diopter eye pieces).

 

Is there a rubber ring on the outer edge of the circular eyepiece? If not, it may have fallen off.

 

Can you post an image?

In the US, KEH or ToCAD America.

 

Are you sure it doesn't focus accurately? (the 90 is touchy with where the focus brackets are placed)

N90S, $75.

 

Now, if only some of that nice prime Nikon AIS glass would do the same.... a 35 f1.4, maybe?

John,

 

re: Costco Waltham, or Nashua?

 

My local 1 hr place will develop and scan, but at +/- 1 MB file size, and uploaded to LifePics (web archive --- pain to use because I have to download each frame individually)

 

1MB is fine for web stuff, email, and snap shots, but would love to get a CDROM and 4 or 5 MB scans. Any one else in the Boston area, or do any of the larger drop off labs (Kodalux) provide this service?

 

Bill

I should more correclty say, "almost" same flash. As I am sure someone will point out, The FL-20 (of which I own) supports TTL on the Olympus digital cameras. The Hexar RF flash (which I don't own) is probably not TTL, because the Hexar RF does not support TTL. The shape, mount, control placement, and indicator lights are almost identical, though.

The Olympus FL-20 looks suspiciously like the flash that came with the Hexar RF kit (HX-18?)... I bet it's the same flash, and you are fine, but I agree with a bit of caution.

 

Lutz: Selling the Hexars _and_ the G's? You're breaking my heart.... :) An M8 in your future?

Thanks, Kim. I would love to hear the same story from someone here in the States (a successful repair from Sony on a Hexar RF).

Despite what I said, I love the F100, and own and use one. Besides very fast, It is the quietest of the Nikon film bodies when autofocusing (a standard AF lens, not the internal focus ones, of course).

Early versions had a film advance "sprocket" that had a atendancy to break.... Nikon shored this up in later units.

 

There are some reports that the exposure system is optimized for chromes (not to blow out highlights).... film users sometimes see 0.5 to 1 stop underexpsoure. Others report no problems.

Wierd. Sounds like it was spun 180 but you say it's not loose. I have a sevice manual if you want to try removing and cleaning and reattaching.

Had two of mine fall into the serial number group with the bad Sony sensor. Fixed quickly, worked flawlessly since then.

 

They'll put the latest firmware on, too.

Yes, I know. I own both (G2 and the Hexar RF). My reason for linking to Lutz's post was to show you a nice "rig" to check the focus on. I think the solid vertical line might be more precise, especially since it is not always clear where in the brackets the G2 is actually focussing.

 

It if truly is back focusing, I can take a look at the G2 service manual and see how involved the calibration is.

I would use something like what Lutz set up for our Hexar's:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DAzK

 

I'll take a look at the service manual as well.

 

Bill

I would not use the focus display on the camera as a guide of an issue. What do the images say?

 

Google (D70 backfocus) and it will give you a nice test chart and mechanism to test (with images and film, not with the focus scale) whether you have an issue or not.

 

Bill

I sent my F100 with exposure issues to a place in CT (will have to find the link to remember the name)... it wound up going to Melville (Nikon) anyways because they couldn't handle the repair. $140 to $160 seems to be the going rate just to look at a camera these days.

 

Unless soemone knows a good independent reapir person locally, your best bet may be Melville.

 

Bill (in central MA)

re: your Hexar

 

Couldn't fix yours, or any? What was the issue?

Good point... if you are unfamilar with the F100, you don't want to be trying to find an internet cafe or a camera shop to try to figure out the Custom Function codes...

Any need to see the aperture setting in the viewfinder? Take the FE2. Want the motor drive? Maybe fill flash? (with a flash, of course) Take the F100. I think the meter will be a wash.

hmmmmm.... speed maybe? Also, which one is more likely to wear out first (mechanically)? I would be more cautious of the CF pins messing up, versus the usb port. I tend to use the port more.

 

But, my Canon G6 only has a USB 1 port, where I'm sure I could get a USB 2 reader.

What are you focusing on?

I've had Kevin at http://www.batterystation.com/ build me a few replacement inserts for some of my amateur radio equipment (replaced dead 600mAHr NiCad pack inserts with a 1400 mAHr NiMH insert, tabbed and with thermal fuse -- custom, didn't match anything in his "configuration chart"). If you can get it open, and identify the cell sizes, and get him a good picture/diagram, I bet he could build you an insert to match.

 

The usual warranty voiding, do so at your own risk stuff applies.

Agreed. I guess that was my point. If the FG didn't check the exposure again after the mirror went up (and before the shutter fired), I would have had a grossly over-exposed roll. The down side was that it took me a little longer to realize something was indeed wrong with the camera (my first guess, actually, was something with the film back or the prism/focusing). Since a lot of the images were taken with available light and wide open, only a few images on the first roll looked "off" to me.

 

Maybe blatantly obvious to others, but after 25 years of messing around with various Nikon's, I didn't realize that the meter kicked in again between "mirror up" and "shutter open". Oh well, I guess I'll enjoy my epiphany in solitude. :-)

I should point out that during composition the exposure reading is "correct" (based on what aperture I have the lens set at). It's not until the camera fires that the FG changes the shutter speed to account for the difference between set aperture and widest opening.

Been testing a Nikon FG body (small, light , very transportable), and after two

rolls, couldn't figure out why the pictures looked soft... exposure was on,

but things didn't look right.

 

To make a long story short, turns out the arm that stops the lens down during

exposure is broken, so every photo I took, most with a 50 1.4 in aperture

prioroty, were taken at 1.4, regardless of where I had the aperture ring. Turns

out that the FG rechecks the exposure in "A" mode just after the mirror goes up

and before the shutter fires, so between TTL flash and the daylight pictures,

the FG kept compensating for the wide open aperture, either with shutter speed

or by choking off the flash.

 

The give away was some flash pictures I had taken that I know I had done at F8

or F11 that only had part of the image in focus. Once I had a clue, of course a

quick look into the lens while firing the shutter at F22 confirmed the issue.

 

One more thing to check when you buy a camera...<div></div>

Remember there is also the option of the insert that takes two 3v CR123's