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leo_griffiths

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Posts posted by leo_griffiths

  1. Upgrading to USB2 will fix the problem with scan times, but you are also going to have an issue with hard drive space, once you start saving the scan files, then when you start to use Photoshop (or whatever) you'll want a faster processor and more memory........
  2. If you are only developing, and not printing, you don't need a darkroom at all. All you need is a changing bag, to load the film into the development tank, everything else is done in the light. For C41 or E6 it is usual to use something like a Jobo processor, to ensure that temperature and agitation are exact.

     

    Unlike developing traditional B+W films, which gives you the opportunity to adjust all the variables which affect the process, C41 processing at home is pretty much a replication of the lab process, so if all you want is to scan tne negs it is easier (and possibly cheaper) to have your films commercially developed, just don't have them printed or scanned.

  3. The short answer is yes, you can replace then with NiCd/NiMH batteries, the long answer follows:

     

    I've got the Metz 45 CT-1, with 2 battery packs, the 45-40 and the 45-39. The 45-39 takes 6 AA size alkaline 1.5 volt batteries, as opposed to the 6 AA 1.2 volt rechargeables in the 45-40, and has different connections on the top, because it supplies 9 volts rather than 7.2 volts.

     

    You can't use rechargeables in the 45-39 pack, and use another charger to recharge them, because you would only get 7.2 volts to the 9 volt connection in the flash. Also in the manual for the similar Metz 45-CL1 it states (approximately)

     

    "The battery housing must not be fitted with NiCads! The contacts are only for Alkalines. The lower resistance of NiCads means that more current can flow, an this can damage the flashgun. The NiCad battery pack 45-40 has special contacts that do not allow the flow of high currents."

     

    My 45-40 pack did not have leaking cells, but some were dead and it would not hold a charge. It is possible to dismantle the pack and replace the cells with new ones, as they are standard rechargeable batteries, but the new cells need to be soldered to the connections.

     

    I got my son to do it, as he is better than me at that sort of thing, but even so, he had problems with overheating a couple of the new cells when soldering them. The other thing is that he used 1600 mAh cells, so that the pack would last a long time on one charge. Well, it did last a long time, but the Metz charger does not put out enough amps to recharge it - even if you leave it connected for a week. So now I am back to using the 45-39 pack with alkalines, until I can find a more powerful charger and wire the Metz plug to it.

     

    I haven't been able to find out anything definite about an external power source, but the Metz 45-CL1 ,which uses the same 45-40 battery pack can use mains power (Mains unit N22 or N23)

  4. Contax and Kiev (copies of Contax) cameras are not LTM - they use the Contax bayonet mount. The Jupiter-12 was made in 2 versions, one for the Contax mount and one LTM. Feds and Zorkis are LTM. In answer to the more general question, I believe that not all LTM lenses are fully compatible with LTM bodies, particularly wide angles like the Jupiter-12, due to the depth of the rear element.
  5. The film is Fuji Neopan 400 CN, and is manufactured by Ilford to Fuji specifications. I haven't tried it myself, but I understand that it is different to XP2.

    I am in the UK, so if you really want to try it out I could always buy a couple of rolls and post them; UK prices are approx. US$3 for a 120 roll and US$4 for 35mm. I guess airmail postage to the USA would add another couple of dollars or so.

    If interested, send me an email.

     

    Leo

  6. Hi David,

    <p>

    I've not tried metering with batteries that don't pass the battery test.<p>

    I've been using Alkalines, metering with a mix of the spot meter and incident meter, but only with negative film. I ought to do a proper test for accuracy, but I haven't got round to it.

    <p> There's a lot of information on <a href="http://www.rolleiclub.nl/batterijadapterUS.php">Mercury

    Batteries</a> and replacements at this site.

    <p>

     

    Leo

  7. The trigger has 2 click-stop positions, for high & low light readings. The first position (half way in} is for normal & bright light situations and the reading should be taken from the scale marked H (the upper one) Pulling the trigger all the way in is the low light position, in which case the scale marked L (the lower one)should be used.

     

    I've got the instruction manual, which I can scan and make available for download if anybody wants it.

  8. Thanks John. I've just checked the PC World website, and they've got it on there at the same price, and in stock. They've also got the 830 (non-U) for the same price, but not on a time-limited special offer, although it's out of stock.Going back to the price of ink cartridges, I looked at the prices on the PC World site, where 1 colour and 1 black cartridge cost a whopping £42.98. That's just £7.01 for the printer then :)

     

    The prices I quoted earlier were for cartridges from 7dayshop.com, who are based in the Channel Islands and are also good for cheap film etc.

     

    Leo

  9. Looking at the specs. it looks like this a minor upgrade to the Stylus Photo 810 (820 in the USA, I think) with an extra USB port on the front. I've got an 810 and have been happy with the quality produced. If it's the equivalent to the 810 the print quality is the same as in the more expensive 9** series, but the build quality is lower and the noise level is higher. I had no problem with that, as I'm not a heavy user either. Incidentally, where in the UK is selling them for £50? Given that it costs nearly £30 for a colour cartridge and a black one, that means that the actual printer only costs £20!
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