bennett_richards

<p>The MeFOTO does not have any anti rotation device... but if you use a RRS or other L bracket this is not a problem</p>

<p>Looking for a good travel tripod to take places my Gitzo can't go.<br>

Looking at the MeFoto RoadTrip or the 3 Legged Thing Brian.<br>

Anyone here that have used these? Well made? Reliable?<br>

Shooting a D810</p>

<p>I do street shooting and landscapes. I rarely shoot more than five images in rapid succession if that. I shoot uncompressed 14 Bit RAW but the D810's buffer is quite substantial.<br>

The SanDisk Extreme Pro is twice the price.<br>

Any advice?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Any advice on this choice? Using as a shutter release and intravelometer.<br>

Thanks!</p>

 

I just got a D810 and I have never used a AF-ON button before. I am not sure what it does.

I started in the days of manual everything cameras and my habit is to see a subject ( I do street photography) place the central focusing

area on that subject, press the release 1/2 way to freeze the focus and exposure for that subject, re-compose and then hit the shutter

release.

 

How would I incorporate the AF-ON button into that workflow? I seem to be hearing that a camera as sophisticated as the D810 can allow

you to set focus on a subject, recompose and then follow that subject if it happens to move.... WOW. How would one set that up with the

D810?

 

Thanks

<p>Hi... I am more or less in the same boat. I just got a D810 and I have never used a AF-ON button before. I am not sure what it does.<br>

I started in the days of manual everything cameras and my habit is to see a subject ( I do street photography) place the central focusing area on that subject, press the release 1/2 way to freeze the focus and exposure for that subject, re-compose and then hit the shutter release.</p>

<p>How would I incorporate the AF-ON button into that workflow? I seem to be hearing that a camera as sophisticated as the D810 can allow you to set focus on a subject, recompose and then follow that subject if it happens to move.... WOW. How would one set that up with the D810?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Does it matter that Nikon makes almost all lenses outside of Japan while Canon still makes MOST if not sl of their L lens line in Japan.</p>

<p>Would the 24-120 play nice with the D810?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

 

 

<p >Hi,<br>

I am debating between purchasing the 16-35mm L and the 17-40mm L lenses for a 5DMII full frame camera.<br>

I was just wondering if one is a better performer than the other on a FF body... although I may also use the lens on a 60D as well.<br>

Other than the difference in focal length and aperture it is good to note that the 16-35mm L is a true Parafocal optic... ergo it maintains its point of focus when zoomed.</p>

I shoot mostly landscapes, building interiors using a tripod, street photography and panos<br />

<p >Anyone use both of these lenses on a FF Canon and care to comment?</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Thanks</p>

 

 

<p>Is there a way to reverse the negative to a positve?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have a few hundred rolls of 35mm B&W film sleeved in Negafile clear sheets. I was wondeing if there was any way one can use a flatbed scanner to create positive proof shhet image files so I can see what's on the film without having to place each page on the light tabe and interpret the negative. Has anyone done this? The quality does not need to be superb... just a positive and viewable.<br>

Thanks.</p>

How did the G11 fare when compared to the G10? I have observed that the G11 is better in most ways...

<p>ThinkTank's customer service is superb.... Best I have seen. I love thgeir stuff... and they stand behind it too!</p>

<p>Get the really Right Stuff Pano Clamp. You use it with a ball head and it make perfect panos easy. <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com">www.reallyrightstuff.com</a> Built like a tank and worth the money.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=5802"><strong>hassiman</strong></a> on Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:48 pm</p>

I am still a bit uncertain as to how to get the results I want from SilverFast AI with my CoolScan 9000 and was hoping for some guidance...<br /><br />As unrealistic as it might seem, I have used as my standard of quality results a B&W 6X6 T-Max negative which I had scanned for me by the master Mac Holbert from Nash Editions.<br />When I ordered the scan I told him that I wanted it scanned so that it would print to 30X30 or larger if necessary with high quality.<br /><br />The resultant scan, which was made on a Scitech has an image size of 11,454 X 11,401 pixels and is 124.6 MB in size and it is quite incredible.<br /><br />Now using Silverfast AI on my SuperCoolSacn 9000 with the scanning method which Karl-Heinz from SilverFast recommended (<b> Set Q Factor at 1.5 SCREEN at 152 leave INPUT & SCALE% at default then put the size print you intend to make in inches in the OUTPUT fields.. Doing this changes the SCALE% and the DPI) </b> I get a scan from a full-frame 6X6 <b>color</b> image that is only 3,752 X 3,767 pixels with a file size of 91.2 MB. Karl from Silverfast told me that this method would yield good prints and avoid the 9000 interpolating the image data.<br /><br />I understand that it would be completely unrealistic to expect results from my 9000 that equal an $80,000+ SciTech... but if I want to print large shouldn't my pixel dimensions be bigger than 3,752 X 3,767... ? Or does pixel dimension have nothing to do with how large the final image is to be printed?<br /><br />How do I set SilverFast AI to yield larger dimension scan files in pixels without damage by interpolation? Pror to the final scan of this image I checked to see what actual optical resolution the scanner was achieving when set up this way and it indicated that the CoolScan 9000 was using only 1,333 dpi of a supposed 4,000 of DPI.<br /><br />Am I missing something here?

<p>Would just like to compare notes.</p>

<p>I have a Gitzo systematic and instead of the leveling base I found a REALLY RIGHT STUFF leveling Pano Clamp was a MUCH better solution. I does the same thing... I can use it on any tripod... even a table tripod.... and it weighs almost nothing.... I stick it on whatever ball head is on my Gitzo and Viloa!</p>

<p>DEar Edward,<br /> Attached is a screen shot of the image sizing setup screen for SF AI and the Nikon 9000. I am not sure about the settings.</p>

<p>Let's say I am scanning a 35mm slide full frame. I wish to print the finished image to 11X14 or 16X20 at highest quality possible.<br /> How does one setup the original and scale% input boxes? does one put in 36mm X 24mm for the 35mm full frame?<br /> How does one use the output boxes? Do you enter the size of the desired print output?<br /> I have been told by LaserSoft that the best Q factor is 1.5 But I'm not sure why and what effect this has.<br /> I have been manually setting the dpi figure at 3600 as Lasersoft told me that this is the true optical resolution of the Nikon 9000... not 4000dpi.</p>

<p>I have tried entering different values into the original/scale% fields as well as the Output fields but they end up changing.</p>

<p>This screenshot is of an earlier version but the data fields shown are the same on SF AI V6.6</p>

<p>What do I do?</p><div></div>

<p>Here is the Device display</p><div></div>

<p>Dear Geofry,</p>

<p>I opened Colorsync.App and I found Eric Chan's profiles I had added to the "Profiles" folder when I looked in Colorsync.app's "profiles" display under "Computer" along with Adobe RGB (1998)</p>

<p>I then looked in the App's "Devices" and it was there under Printers\Epson Stylus Pro 3800 that I found the paper profiles that must have come with the 3800's driver.</p>

<p>Does it matter that the new profiles landed where I found them???</p><div></div>

<p>Dear Godfrey,<br>

I went to Library\Colorsync\profiles and found lots of profiles in there... many installed by Silverfast for my scanner also Blue Tone .icc and AdobeRGB1998.icc and Black & White.icc.. in this top level "Profiles" folder there are also the sub-folders "Recommended", "Profiles", and "Displays". Opening "the "Profiles sub=folder I see photoshop4DefaultCMYK.icc and WideGamuteRGB.icc, BlackWhite.icc and another recommended subfolder. Nowhere have I seen an ICC profile that appears to refer to a printing paper!<br>

Is the top level "Profiles" folder where I should place the Paper ICC profiles I want to use? <br>

Signed... Still confused.</p><div></div>

<p>Dear Godfrey,<br>

Thanks very much for such a well thought out answer.</p>

<p>I think my follow up question would have to be are the printer ICC profiles included with the Epson driver ever used if one always prints by letting LR or PS CS4 manage the color? When printing in Epson's Advanced B&W mode are LR/PS managing the color or is the Epson driver?<br>

My 23" Apple Cinema display is calibrated using an x-rite puck with Color Eyes Display Pro... yet on the first prints I noticed that the prints were coming out quite a bit darker than the screen output. My luminance is set low... about 100 so something is not 100% somewhere....</p>

 

<p>"2_if you use another manufacturer paper, then yes use there ICC profile, simply put them with the other ICC profile (read instruction on how and where to put them..simple drag and drop). You will then see them ONLY in Photoshop (and other software that use color amnagement) NEVER in the epson driver. So in the epson driver, not that it make a big difference, but you will need to choose a paper in the list that feel like the photo rag (being the velvet) this is for paper handling mainly."</p>

<p>Patrick... exactly where does one drag and drop the iCC profile files to?</p>

<p>Au contrair... if only life and printing were really that simple...<br>

What if you have a paper say Hanah's Photo Rag Satin 310 which is a paper that needs a custom ICC generated as the manufaturer's ICCs for the paper are poor at best... or what if you really care to get the best results and want to use an ICC that is custom generated for your printer for a paper by a guy like Eric Chan.... Also the manuals are really not that great.<br>

But thanks for the help</p>

<p >Hi,</p>

<p >I am new to fine Art printing with my 3800 and I am sorry to re-hash stuff a year later but I am a LOT confused. I am not sure how Leopard's Colorsync works or why it's needed as I have installed the Epson's 3800 driver that has a drop-down list of printer drivers.</p>

<p >For convience I would rather add any new ICCs to the ICC profile Pkg file in the Epson driver so that they are available in the Epson driver's drop-down selection window... but how is this done correctly? I have a feeling that it's more complex than just opening the Pkg and dropping the new ICC files into it.</p>

<p >Since I am new to fine art printing I am way in the dark as to the How - what and whys of Leopard's Colorsync. If you have Epson's drivers with it's own selection of ICCs then how does that interface with any ICCs in Colorsync... or do you select the ICC you wish to use which reside in Colorsync in a differnt place than the drop-down menu in the Epson 3800's driver?</p>

<p >Any help would be great.</p>

<p >Running Leopard, PS CS4 and LightRoom 2.4</p>

<p>If you want something that will last you literally a lifetime get a used Leica tabletop tripod on e-bay. I have had mine now for 35 years and it's still going strong!</p>

<p> </p>