david b
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Posts posted by david b
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P.S. Pleased to see you are talented and have a lot of photographic "knowledge" - I'd keep a bit back for a dictionary as well...
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Film, lab charges, print framing and petrol (to explore locations).
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I am intersted in this discussion, as I am in the same situation. Any digital capture method e.g. digital backs, are going to be obsolete very quickly - next year it'll be half the price / twice as good etc etc.
I think the current answer is film capture and scan/digital output.
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I have the Schneider SA 90mm f/8 and find it absolutely excellent. Any decent 90mm f/8 would do fine...
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I have a similar sized 5x4 outfit in a Photo Trekker AW pack, which whilst quite large is very comfortable, and easily accomodates my gear plus maps, food and a flask for a day trek.
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Yes, f/32. The GW670 and GW690 are the same btw.
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If I was doing this then I would use a MF rangefinder, for example the Fuji GW series (6x7 or 6x9cm)or a Mamiya 7. This would give good hand hold-ability and eye level viewing, and corrected for paralax.
Or, depending what TLR you've got, you could use a prism finder.
Or even a Pentax 67 SLR, though not as handholdable as rangefinders, due to the weight and mirror slap issues, etc.
I had a Fuji GW690iii, and it was great for this sort of thing.
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Well, I've always stored my film in the freezer and never noticed anything go the matter with it. I've never kept anything longer than about 6 months or so (so always still within date actually).
I keep it there so I (1) always know where it is, and (2) It's convenient as you're in and out of the fridge all the time, arn't you - but the bottom of the freezer gets forgotten about...
I'm talking about 35mm, 120 and 5x4 fuji transparency film, btw.
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I has no real trouble using soft transition ND grads with my Fuji GW690III. Just hold the holder up to the sky to position the grad.
Two systems seems a bit over the top to me...In your place I'd use the M7 for landscape.
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If you're just doing landscape, I'd get the Pentax, assuming you didn't want to go to large format (which for my exclusively landscape work I have done).
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Yeah, what's a Troll?
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"would the two guys stand right next to each other"
YES
"or would the 8x10 guy have to be further away?"
NO
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All the above is correct and not an over exageration.
David Bickerdike
Chemistry Lecturer/Teacher
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34, and just started LF with second hand Wista VX, after 15 years
with 35mm and MF. I'm in UK too, btw.
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My 90mm f/8 SA is the same. I bought it brand new one month ago.
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Anyone know if you can by this book in the UK? Any idea what it costs?
Thanks.
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If an impact adhesive is no good, what about a cyanoacrylate based 'super glue' type adhesive?
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I have recently bought a used Wista VX and a Schneider super angulon 90mm f/8 lens. I have not had the opportunity to try it yet, and will not for a couple of weeks at least, so perhaps people will tolerate these questions in advance of me trying to see for myself.
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1. Will the 90mm lens show any of the camera bed if the bed is not dropped and the lens focussed on infinity? I tried looking this up in the archives, but could not specically find this camera/lens combination. It would be a bit of a pain I imagine to have to drop the bed and raise /tilt the front standard. I assume though that for vertical compositions, dropping the bed would definately be necessary?
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2. Has anyone used the HiTech 100 filter system standard 67mm mounting ring with this lens? Does this cause vignetting?
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Thanks! David.
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I use KENRO, they are based in the UK.
Not that cheap, but excellent in my opinion.
www.kenro.co.uk Tel:01793 615836
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Thank you for all the truly helpful remarks made by so many
contributors - I am overwhelmed and delighted with the response.
If I've learnt one thing here, then it is try things out first.
I really appreciate the kind offers to look at other people's LF
gear. I am now a resident of Northumberland, these last ten years
(though lived in the south for much of my life), so am 300 miles+
from you all. With very young children to consider, I'll not be able
to get down - though thanks again for the offer, gentlemen. At least
I live in the middle of one of the most photogenic counties in the
country!
I think I'll monitor the sources mentioned, and see what crops up.
Thanks yet again,
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Hello, I hope people will tolerate and help with this beginner's question:
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I am a reasonably experienced amateur photographer concentrating solely on outdoor/landscape photography. I seek to produce large (large to me is 18 x 12 inches upwards, max probably 30 x 20) fine prints in colour, usually using Velvia/Provia and cibachrome (though have looked at light jet scans etc).
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I currently use a Fuji GW690III rangefinder, which is excellent though limiting in terms of no movements to control depth of field etc, and of course it only has the one lens.
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I also want to rise to the technical challenge of setting up a LF photograph, and think that the additional involvement in the process will encourage me to concentrate fully on a few subjects, and allow me to immerse myself in the picture making process. I am not, and have no wish to be, a pro so have no one to please but me when it comes to the images produced.
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In short, I think I will enjoy the technical side, and want to give it a try.
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I want therefore to be able to make 4x5 transparencies in the field, and wonder what to start with. Ideally I�d like a 4x5 folding field camera, but cannot afford one new, as I want something solid, and have about £1000 to spend everything included (i.e. lens, film holders etc).
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Do you think I should start with a second hand monorail (Toyo, Horseman, Sinar etc), as these seem much cheaper, although bulkier and heavier? It would have to fit in my 65 litre rucksack�Do you think I should try and go for a cheaper second hand field camera (Toyo 45A/45AII, old Technika, Horseman)?
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I�ve already got a good meter, full set of filters, heavy Gitzo tripod etc.
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One final point, I am in the UK so it needs to be something available over here.
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Thank you,
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Obviously, you wont be able to match a 10x8 contact print, which of course you could achieve with a 10x8 neg, but not MF. AA also used a Hasselblad, and therefore such shots are clearly achievable with modern equipment.
Far more important though is skill, technique, vision etc etc which, in my opinion, will contribute far more to quality of the result than the exact size of the negative used.
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I think David Henderson said it all - exactly what I would have said if he hadn't already...
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I agree with the 6x9 argument. I haven't noticed any of the specific to 6x9 problems you describe. You can crop 6x9 to 6x7 anyway when you want that format.
THE Most Lovely Landscapes ....
in Medium Format
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