bj_larsson

<p>I guess my first question is: If you're shooting so much indoors, why not use a better flash setup?<br /> <br /> Sure you can keep pushing the ISO but is getting one extra stop really going to solve your problem? And why does it _have_ to be natural light?<br /> <br /> FWIW I own the 50 mm f1.8, 18-200 and the 10-20 and used to shoot the 18-200 & 10-20 on my D40 before getting a D300. Yes, I have a couple of extra stops indoors now, but the difference isn't that huge. I still find that even with just a SB400 & a simple bounce card I can often get shots I'm happy with indoors vs. shooting available light.<br /> <br /> Also, why do you need 2 bodies? I would sell the body you use the least and spend that money on either the 35mm 1.8 lens and/or a flash (I'm assuming you don't have one as it wasn't listed).<br /> <br /> Just my $0.02. :)<br /> Best of luck.<br /> Bjorn</p>

<p>Paul: Thanks for that link. Quite interesting (and not something I'd be willing to 'experiment' with myself, I like my glass ;) )</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I really think you need to specify what frame and what your choices are. Full frame? DX? :)</p>

<p>On my FM2's I shoot mostly my 50 1.8 (with my lenses being a 28 2.8, 50 1.8 and 105 2.5)</p>

<p>On my D300 I generally shoot the 18-200 (with my lenses being the 10-20 Sigma, 18-200 and 50 1.8AFD).</p>

Some very good points above. I am by no means an expert at street. But over the last year or so of actively pursuing Street I found that moving in a calm and confident manner keeps people more relaxed. I avoid quick jerky movements.

 

At times I have kept the camera in front of my chest and "shoot blind". Results on that vary and mostly I don't bother with this approach.

 

If someone gives you "the look" after taking their photo, smile and give a friendly nod of thanks. At least, that what works for me.

 

FWIW, I've shot with a point and shoot, Nikon D40 w/ 18-200 and 10-20 (talk about having to get close!) and a FM2n with 50mm and 28mm primes.

I used a B&W ultra thin CP with my Sigma 10-20mm lens and enjoyed the results. Mind you, that filter cost almost $200 CDN.

 

If you get a chance to borrow one, try a couple of shots and see what you think for yourself, I don't think outright dismissing a CP on an ultra-wide angle is a very good move. But you do need to be aware of the limitations.

Perhaps the best test would be "How hard would it be for a D40 user to switch to a truly manual camera?"

 

Well, I did just that as my D40 / 18-200VR / 10-20 mm Sigma all got stolen. All I've got left is a Nikon FM2n with 50 mm and 28 mm primes which I'd just purchased (used and cheap). Adjusting was interesting but fairly easy. I've put a couple of rolls through the FM2n and enjoy it. Zooming with your feet is interesting, having a f1.8 and f2.8 lens is nice. And I'm getting results I'm fairly happy with. I had the D40 for about a year beforehand and shot quite a bit (approx 20,000 images in that one year).

 

So, I would say that evidence is too the contrary based on my personal experience. Of course, your milage may vary.