michael_j._kravit

Wow, great to read that others have had the similar experiences to mine. After 29 years of using Nikons I too bit the proverbial bullet and bought a new Hassey System. I purchased mine this past January. I bought a 203FE, 50/2.8 FE, 110/2.0 FE, PM5, extension tubes and various filters. There was a problem with the PM5 mating to the body. The connection would be intermittant and the display would invert. As I was leaving on vacation within days, the dealer called Hasselblad and asked what to do. They had the dealer FEDEX the camera up north, Hassey replaced the contacts, cleaned and throughly tested all components and FEDEX'D the camera back to me all at their expense.

 

The local Hasselblad rep stated that Hasselblad wants their owners to understand that service is paramount. Well, I am convinced. Hopefully soon I can add a 250mmFE and a second body. Perhaps the 205FCC. Hasselblad is certainly the finest camera I have ever owned. An those optics....what can I say except they are sharp, sharp, sharp!

 

I do not work of Hasselblad or any other camera dealer. I am a design professional (architect) who understands what the words responsiveness and service mean.

Thanks for the answers.

 

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I ordered The book of Pyro today and took a look at Ed's development

times on his web page. I wil begin testing this weekend. Thanks again

 

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Mike

With all the positive talk on PMK Pyro, I had to see what all the hub-bub was about. I ordered the PMK liquid and recommended fixer from the Photographers Formulary. It arrived last evening.

 

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The instruction booklet states that PMK cam be used over a temperature range. They say that no degredation of the negative or image will occur using higher temperatures. Here in south Florida the tap water runs between 78F and 80F. They say to decrease the development time by 4% or each degree of temperature rise over 70F.

 

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That means that I could process film at 78F - 80F and decrease the suggested development time by 32% - 40% as a starting point. And wonders of wonders I will have no degredation of the image or negative.

 

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Is this possible? Could someone tell me if I finally can process film without ice or a chiller? This sounds too good to be true. Sorry for being long winded but I am still cautiously optomistic.

 

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Mike

Alaina,

 

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Your question is a very good one. I am an Architect in Florida. When

I was 16 I set up a darkroom in my house. My mother would not let me

build one so I used her laundry room. I bought an inexpensive 35mm

enlarger, a few 8x10 trays, a developing tank, and several other

accessories.

 

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My mom gave me two shelves within the cabinets to store all of the

items. I would set the enlarger on the dryer and developing trays on

the washing machine. I would place towels on the floor at the door

so that light would not get in. I had a small lamp with a red

darkroom bulb attached.

 

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It was great fun. I took pictures for out High School Yearbook and

Newspaper. I went on to study Architecture and Fine Arts at the

University of Miami. I took several photography classes in college

and used the Universities darkroom.

 

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I now have a dedicated 9'x12' darkroom that I built in my home. I

have taught my son to develop and print film and he really has fun

with it. He attends the University of Florida. My daughter will be 16

in November. She is taking her first photography class in school this

coming year.

 

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If you have any other question I would be happy to answer them.

 

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Mike

Tri-X in HC-110 Dilution B (1:7)

Greg, I know it is easier to just refer to to the dataguide but I

suppose you do not have it available at the moment. So here is the

info you requested.

 

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18 degrees - 8.5 min

20 degrees - 7.5 min

21 degrees - 6.5 min

22 degrees - 6 min

24 degrees - 5 min

 

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Source: Kodak B+W Darkroom Dataguide

When I have Agfapan 25 processed by a local lab the negatives come back with a greenish cast to the emulsion. However, when I process them myself in Rodinal at 1:25 they are perfectly clear. Anyone know why this is so?

I subscribed 6 minths ago. Received 1 issue and never heard anything else. Perhaps there is a sickness/accident, but I am quickly loosing patience. A scam?........probably not. Bad business practice....most definitly!

 

mike

Our office recently bought the Minolta Dimage Multi Scanner. We sold

out Nikon LS-2000 as we now require MF scanning abilities. The

Minolta is a very good scanner. The dynamic range is rated at 3.6.

Out 35mm scans hold excellent shadow detail. Color rendition is

superb and excells the Nikon. The scanning software is intuitive and

easy to use.

 

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The scanner is fast. 35mm scans at max resolution (30mb files) take

20-45 seconds. MF scans (6x6) take about the same. The cyan cast

that we got with the Nikon LS-2000 is not present on the Minolta

scans. The resulting Monolta scans are also sharper than the Nikon

scans with or without using Nikons ICE software.

 

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A 30mb 35mm scan on the Nikon took us 20 minutes. This baby really

flies as I mentioned before.

 

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All in all we could not be happier. As architects, we photograph

existing buildings, scan them into the computer, manipulate them in

Photoshop and create presentations that are printed on an Epson Photo

Stylus EX or HP DesignJet 750 at 24"x36".

 

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I would surely recommend this scanner as a very viable alternative to

the expensive high end scanners for all but the most demanding

projects.

 

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Mike

I was pretty much in the same position as John. I know that his post

was made well over a year ago, but I felt my experience would be

helpful.

 

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I own and have used almost the entire Nikon line including some big

long and expensive glass. I found that I got bored shooting birds

with a AF-S 600/4. Fun for a while, but not very satisfying for "fine

are" type needs.

 

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Enter MF. About 2 months ago I began looking into MF SLR systems.

Finally after hours, days, and weeks of soul searching and restless

nights I bit the bullet and bought Hassy 203FE, FE f/2.8 50mm and FE

f/2 110mm lenses. I am planning to also buy the FE f/4 350mm with

the 2x extender.

 

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I am still learning to use the system. It was expensive, but I have

to admit that the image quality is far superior to my 35mm system.

In fact, I am seriously considering selling my F5 and all my AF

lenses. I will probably keep a 35mm P&S or other small 35 such as

the new Hasselblas XPlan for light weight travel and family

occassions.

 

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After I got back my first couple rolls of film I almost fell on the

floor. The results were amazing. 16x20 enlargements were sharp, and

dynamic.

 

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I have no regrets spending the big bucks. In fact, a friend of mine

who bought a Hassy in college 20 years ago just sold it for roughly

3x what he paid. Can others claim the same with their systems?

 

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One other note, I also considered the new Contax 645 w/ AF and AE but

decided not to buy it because I prefer the 6x6 format.

 

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Mike

I want to thank everyone for the answers that I received. Not sure I

can make a decision yet, but the good news is that I will spend a

good deal of tine using the waist level finder first. I really like

the idea of interacting with the subject rather than having a camera

stuck in my face.

 

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I will also try out both the 45 degree and 90 degree prism's before

making a decision.

 

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So far I love the new camera. I like the dynamic quality images that

the MF provides. I like the fact that I must slow down and think

before pushing the shutter release.

 

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I never expected such a large response with such a thorough

compliment of well thought out responses. Thank you all.

 

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Mike

Recently I got a great deal on a new Hassy 203FE body. A friend told

that I "must" have a prism finder. It makes focusing easier and in

general life a bit sweeter. With that in mind, I would appreciate

opinions from experienced users on the pros and cons of the 45 vs 90

degree prism. Also what folks think about just using the waist level

finder. My primary work involves landscapes and cityscape images. I

also shoot some macro from time to time.

 

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In advance thanks.

 

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Mike

I have been using my F5 for about 9 months now. I find with AA

Lithium batteries I get 40-50 rolls except when using my AF-S

300/2.8, then I get approximately 30% less. This past weekend I ran

out of Lithiums. I had a half dozen packs of Alkaline AA's we store

in our Hurricane supply closet. I loaded em up and shot the entire

weekend with the AF-S 300. I used auto rewind and only got 15-20

rolls out of that set.

My thanks to everyone here for the consise and informative

responses. I now believe I fully understand how fill flash is

accomplished.

I am interested to know what settings do most folks use for fill

flash when shooting birds and wild life with Nikon cameras,

especially the F5 or N90s. Do you use your flash in "slow sync" mode

or "normal sync" mode when using TTL fill flash?

 

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I believe the "slow sync" mode allows the camera to sync down to 1/30

sec.

 

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Any thoughts.

 

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Thanks

Mike

Joe,

 

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I use the Lee Filter System. It is expensive, but the quality is

second to none. They make a wide angle lens adapter of most every

size of lens. If they don't have one available they will make it for

you. But quite honestly, the system is expensive. The basic holder

system is $95, each lens adapter ring approximately $50, and the

shades run about $240 each. You can easily plop down close to $500 on

this system.

 

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The Cokin P system might be your best bet. I have many friends that

use it and are very pleased with it as well.

 

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Good Luck

Mike

Thanks to you guys for the comments confirming that the coverter has

a problem. It will be going back this week for an exchange.

 

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Mike

Ya know, after years of practice as a design professional (architect)

I find that the best designed sometimes "just happen". What I mean

is that you can't alway plan you designs or shots. Somestimes you

just have to depend upon your experience, talents, and technical

competence and let things just happen.

 

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This past summer my wife and I spent many hours in Rocky Mountain

National Park. We rose early, scoped out the areas we wanted to

photograph and returned only to find that we would wait hours for the

perfect shot, all to no avail. On those occassions that we were

spontaneous and took advantage of opportunities and what nature

handed out, we got some excellent images.

 

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My experience indicates that the best stuff happens when you are

prepared, and let it happen, don't force it. FWIW.

 

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Mike

I recently bought a TC-20E Teleconverter to use with my AF-S 300.

When I attach it there is a slight bit of rotational play between the

converter and the camera (F5).

 

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This play results in differing meter readings and improper auto-focus

operation. Basically AF searches and can't acquire subject.

 

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Without the TC-20E the lens and camera work fine. BTW, also tried

this on my N-90s.....same problem. I really doubt that this is the

proper operation of the TC-20E. Anyone experience this or have a TC-

20E and can comment.

 

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My gut feeling is that the TC-20E I bought has a problem. Just

wanted some opinions before I return/exchange it.

 

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Mike

On a recent trip to Colorado, I shot a couple dozen rolls of Velvia.

I bracketed all exposures plus and minus 2/3 stop. When the processed

film came back I noticed that many of the exposures have a blue cast.

Especially, waterfalls and streams. Looks like the sky in reflecting

a lot of bluish light. Most of these shots were late in the day

around 6-7pm. None were shot at mid-day.

 

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Some of the slides were shot using B+W circular multi-coated

polarizers.

 

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Anyone have any idea of how to control this problem?

 

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Mike

(Corrected Spelling Errors)

 

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Jeff,

As you know the west coast of Florida is rich in nature and

photgraphic opporunities. Pick up a copy of "Florida, A Guide to

Nature and Photography" by John Netherton. Great book and an

excellent resource. There are several areas of interest close to

Naples.

 

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Big Cypress Preserve (I-75) east of Naples)

 

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Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary (Located near Immokolee SE of Sanibel

Island and NE of Naples)

 

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Ding Darling Nature Preserve (On Sanibel Island, 20 minutes north of

Naples on I-75)

 

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Everglades National Park (SE of Naples)

 

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That should help you out. But if you can, get the book I listed

above. It is roughly 90 pages and beautifully done.

 

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Mike

Dave,

 

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I own a Nikon F5, a N90s, and a F2. I use my buddies F4 from time to

time. I also have a AF-S 300. With the F5 the AF speed is amazing.

The lens focuses from infinity to as close as it will go in roughly

1/4 second. Fast? yes blazing fast. Before I bought the F5 I

seriously considered the Canon. I make side by side comparisons,

rented a Canon equipment, borrowed some and realized that nothing is

quite as fast and accurate in AF as the F5. Perhaps in a year that

will change, but for my money (and this stuff is literally a fortune)

the F5 has it all. My wife uses the N90s, she likes the size and

weight, loves the AF and would not trade it for the world.

 

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If you are going to buy the AF-S lenses and use them in AF mode, then

the F5 is the only way to go.

 

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I shot my daughters track meet last week. I was amazed at how the F5

in Continuous servo/dynamic focus mode tracked the participants never

once loosing focus or having to search to re-aquire focus. I don't

shoot many sports events and really had no idea how good the F5

autofocus really is.

 

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Good Luck

Mike

Mark,

 

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Breckenridge is a great place tp soot some pix. The old mines that sit in the forrest above the town are great. The village itself makes for a great subject. Victorian shops and old weather torn shacks abound. I get there at least once a year.

 

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Mike