vincent_peri

<p>Not Always. See:<br>

https://www.rocketlawyer.com/article/when-you-need-a-photo-release.rl</p>

<p>I don't think film is a novelty. I use it, and judging by the eBay sales of film cameras and lenses, a lot of other people are using it too. If film were a novelty, why would Kodak reintroduce their Ektachrome transparency film? They might even bring Kodachrome back.<br /> Besides Kodak, you have Fujifilm and Ilford producing film too. Film isn't going anywhere any time soon.</p>

<p>I use Black & White & Color Digital Imaging and Darkroom Services. I shoot 35mm, but they also process 120 and 4x5 film too.<br>

<br />Contact Info:<br>

<br />www.BWCLab.com<br>

480-557-8888<br>

ThisLabs4U@bwclab.com</p>

<p>BWCLab<br>

1705 University Drive<br>

Ste. 103<br>

Tempe, Arizona 85281</p>

<p>I've only placed one order with them... to develop a bunch of TMax 400 film. But the negatives were excellent, so I'm very pleased with them.</p>

<p>It's been decades since I've had either camera, but it looks like a Nikon FM or FE. Got the serial number?</p>

<p>The highest film speed I ever used was ISO 800 (Kodak Gold 800?) I shot a roll, but I didn't like the grain. Now, my top film speed is ISO 400 Tri-X.</p>

<p>It doesn't look like fungus to me. It could be cleaning marks, or maybe slight damage to the lens coating.</p>

<p>In any event, it won't affect your photos taken with the lens.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I think the HP (High-Eyepoint) finder poses a problem for folks who wear glasses (which I don't).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The HP finder is GREAT for people who wear glasses!</p>

<p>Hmm... does anyone know if the Sherman Antitrust Act applies here? After all, what Nikon is doing will cut back on competition.</p>

<p>If you are going from zone V to zone VII, that's two stops MORE exposure, so open up 2 stops --> f2 at 1/30th. Unless, of course, I've misunderstood you.</p>

<p>I had an F3 like that. I just gave the ring a lot of exercise, moving it back and forth manually until it started behaving properly. If you haven't tried doing that yet, it's worth a shot.</p>

<p>Go Kodak! That's a relief to hear their film business is doing good.</p>

<p>I went with Provia 100F and Astia 100F (until it got discontinued). Also, I'm shooting Ektar 100.</p>

<p>My first bag was a domke F2. I now have 3 of them. It was, and is, perfect for me. Plenty of room for all sorts of equipment.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>P.S. Exposing the lens to UV light to bleach out the yellow of the aged Canada Balsam is fruitless because UV does not penetrate glass. You cannot get a suntan via window-filtered sunlight.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I found this of interest:<br>

http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/152/can-you-tan-through-glass</p>

<p>The F3 is the real mystical camera. In production for 20 years (1980-2000), it outlived the F4 (1988-1997).</p>

<p>I've bought 4 or so excellent grade lenses from Keh, and they've all been almost like new. I recently bought a bargain Nikkor 135mm f/2.8 AIS, and it had scratches and wear on the lens hood/body, but the glass was perfect. I'm very pleased with the lens.</p>

<p>The lens play you describe (if I understand it correctly) is normal. There has to be some very minor tolerance for the lens to bayonet properly. If there was no tolerance, then a small bit of dust would prevent the lens from locking in place.<br>

The only brands that didn't have this tolerance were, understandably, my Pentax screw mount lenses and my Canon FD breech lock lenses from long ago.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I've seen people selling L1BC,B2 and A2 in 72mm on ebay but chart says they've never been made. Nikon is very mysterious about these things.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The Nikon chart I have shows Nikon (at some time) did make the L1Bc, A2, and B2 in both 62mm and 72mm sizes.<br>

Too bad Nikon didn't put a "printed in 19xx" notice on my chart.</p>

<p>According to a Nikon filter chart I have, they did not make the Y52, X0, and X1 filters in 62mm or 72mm.</p>

<p>I have specific camera bodies and lenses dedicated to black & white film shooting, and other cameras and lenses dedicated to shooting color film. Thus, I have 2 Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lenses. I also have several other duplicate lenses (different maximum apertures, however). I find it more convenient to permanently keep Nikon Y48 yellow filters permanently attached to my B&W-dedicated lenses, while I keep L37c Haze filters on my color-dedicated lenses.<br>

With Nikkor manual focus lenses being so cheap, I have no problem doing things the way I do.</p>

<p>I have a stash of Astia 100F, and I also shoot Provia 100F, Ektar 100, Tri-x, and T-Max (100 & 400).</p>

<p>I think this is an example of one person inventing rules of etiquette that aren't.</p>

<p>According to this link, there is no alternate lens hood listed:<br>

http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/accessory.html#28-xx</p>

<p>I keep my computers about 5 or 6 years. I don't need the latest and greatest, just something to go online with and to write on. I shoot film, so I don't digitize my photos. Thus, I have no need for gigantic hard drives.</p>

<p>I use my MD4 drives set on "single shot", merely to advance the film smoothly. I'm a klutz and jostle the camera too much when I advance the film manually. With the drive set on single shot, you're always ready to shoot another frame.</p>