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evan_dong1

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Posts posted by evan_dong1

  1. <p>Ral,</p>

    <p>Nice looking camera and lens. Whom did you use for the repair? I also live in NJ and I bought a similar camera but with the Zeiss 58mm F2.0 Biotar. I need the the camera CLA and also have the curtain replaced too. Lens is a tad stiff, so a good CLAS would do wonders.</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

  2. <p>Ricky,<br>

    From whomever you buy your Contax 645 system from and if you have to built up your lens lineup, try to find dealer (Keh) who will offer you a 15 inspection return policy with full refund.<br>

    Once you have your base system and whatever Contax 645 optics you will pick up, do send them all off to Tocad America for COMPLETE CHECKUP AND IF NEEDED, have everything repaired or overhaul.<br>

    I understand the 10 year timeframe for repairs & available parts are near the end of the supply. If possible have a spare body with prism on hand. I have (2) complete 645 systems with several focal lengths optics I was able to locate. <br>

    Film are still available , but in limited choices. I use B & H Photo,Adorama, and Unique Photo for my film. Good Luck on your choice of system.</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Ricky,</p>

    <p>If you want the Tilt & Shift, try to find an Arsat 55mm PCS in P-6 mount.<br>

    Buy the P6 to Contax 645 adapter. Its a sharp lens. </p>

    <p>Other choice would be to attempt to locate a Mamiya 645 to Contax 645 adapter.<br>

    Use the Mamiya 645 50 shift PCS. Another sharp lens.</p>

    <p>With the exception of the 55mm, 210mm, & 350mm, the Contax 645 optic lenses lineup are all fine.<br>

    I have the Contax 45-90mm zoom.<br>

    You can try to find the Contax MAM-1 adapter to use the Hasselblad V optics. I use the 50mmF2.8 and the 60-120mm zoom.<br>

    Both are sharp optics.</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

  4. <p>Robert,</p>

    <p>You will not encounter any fit issue with the sunshade. Just be carefully which B60 to 67mm adapter ring you plan to use. I had some issue with the aluminum adapter "sticking" on 67mm filters. Switch over to the Heliopan brass B60 to 67 mm adapter, using all of my B+W and Heliopan filters. Never had any issues afterwards. </p>

  5. <p>JDM,<br>

    Very well explained regarding the Soviet Jupiter 8M. I bought 2 each in LTM and Contax RF mount. The Contax RF mount Jupiters were good. However I had some issues with the LTM, so I stopped using them. If I had to buy them over again, I would like to go for the Jupiter 3 50mm F1.5 in LTM. Just not really sure whom to buy from off eBay. Is there any particular seller I should use and in the event it would require re-alignment of the internal glass who do I use?<br>

    I would love to go down this path again...</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>Robert,<br>

    You might be right about the OLDER Focal Plane Hasselblad. <br>

    Good Luck in getting spare parts and finding someone who can truly work on them.<br>

    I have (2) Hassselblad 1000F overhaul when the techs were still around whom can fix them.<br>

    I have several of the original Hasselblad lens for it: 80mm F2.8 Tessar, 135mm F3.5 Sonnar & Ektar, & the 250mm F5.56 Sionnar.<br>

    Also using some of the Kiev 88 optics, 180mm CZJ Sonnar MC and Pre-Set Olympia Sonnar in both 180mm and 300mm.</p>

     

  7. <p>Daniele,</p>

    <p>I use a Gitzo tripod that has a column hook at the bottom portion of the column. I use my camera bag (weighted with my additional equipment!) as an anchor to hold down the tripod in windy condition. <br>

    Also use a simple Gtizo head with the Hasselblad Quick release system. If I have need for a more versatile tripod head, I plan ahead to carry either a Manfrotto head or even my Acra-Awiss head (HEAVY) Usually the Gitzo head is sufficient.</p>

  8. <p>Brian,</p>

    <p>Good to see you here! Thanks for the link on how to shim up a Jupiter 3. I always wanted to buy a properly adjusted Jupiter 3, but read about thew horror stories of Hit & Miss in regards to getting a good one. I will print out those instructions and hopefully find a good tech who will be able to do it for me.<br>

    By any chance would you have any for sale? If not, whom can I buy one form without doing the Russian Roulette?</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

  9. <p>Hi John,</p>

    <p>I have an "Original" Rolleiflex strap for the C & D model. Just not sure if it ever came in gray plastic strap. The metal grommets that attaches the strap to the metal hardware appears to looks original and no sights of any tampering.<br>

    I bought it many years ago from a former Rolleiflex engineer from the Singapore operation. he had a camera shop in Hawaii (when I lived out there) where he was selling his acquired goods over the years.<br>

    <br />I will try to take a photo of the metal hardware and post it here. Are we allow to post jpegs here? If so, how do we do it?<br>

    I prefer the Hasselblad wide nylon strap which I use on my Rolleiflex TLR. its not exactly correct, but it works.</p>

  10. <p>Ian,<br>

    This lens uses a Bay 93 filter. The lenshood for this lens has the retaining slot in the rear of the hood.<br>

    You place the filter with the glass that is flush with the filter ring at the front port of the lenshood. Meaning the indented portion of the filter is facing the optics. You will see a little on the filter once you get, then you will understand.<br>

    Below is a jpeg of the filter, lenshood, and the lens.<br>

    For additional information, view this link:<br>

    http://www.farines-photo.com/tech/hasselblad/fe4.8_60_120/index.html</p>

    <p>I sue this lens on my Hasselblad 201F and also on my Contax 645.<br>

    <img src="http://www.farines-photo.com/images_assets/assets/hassy_zoom_60-120_filter.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="169" /></p>

     

  11. <p>Ian,<br>

    This lens uses a Bay 93 filter. The lenshood for this lens has the retaining slot in the rear of the hood.<br>

    You place the filter with the glass that is flush with the filter ring at the front port of the lenshood. Meaning the indented portion of the filter is facing the optics. You will see a little on the filter once you get, then you will understand.<br>

    Below is a jpeg of the filter, lenshood, and the lens.<br>

    I sue this lens on my Hasselblad 201F and also on my Contax 645.<br>

    <img src="http://www.farines-photo.com/images_assets/assets/hassy_zoom_60-120_filter.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="169" /></p>

     

  12. <p>Brett has suggested a fantastic choice and it is within your reach. I have the Automat with the Xenar lens and it is sharp and will do the job.</p>

    <p>If the camera is functional, I would use it first and then factor in a CLA afterwards. That way you will have a sand & dust free camera that has been CLA. I used a Rolleiflex T in Inner Mongolia, Malta, Big Island of Hawaii, Maui, and Bryce Canyon. Never had any issue with sand or dust. I clean my camera on a nightly basis after shooting with either can air or the Giotto blower.</p>

  13. <p>Good Morning Bulent,</p>

    <p>Of course YES to a fellow Contax user! I have send an e-mail to you through Photo.Net and I also forwarded an email to the Service Manager (If he is still there!) at Tocad America. If all else fail, I can call in directly.</p>

    <p>I have some equipment I will be sending in to be service, so it is in OUR interest!</p>

    <p> </p>

  14. <p>Bulent,</p>

    <p>Send an e-mail directly to Tocad America Service Dept and they answer you. Any parts comes directly from Kyocera-Yashica in Japan. Simple repairs are done here, any complex repairs are shipped directly to Japan through Tocad America, where in Japan they will do a full diagnostic of the equipment. Once it has been determine exactly what is wrong, a "Final" price will be given to you. In the event that parts are simply no longer in stock or available, they will inform you so. <br>

    <br />If you choose to have it repair, it will be done at that price and will be return to Tocad upon completion. The shipping and any Customs Duty re absorbed by Kyocera-Yashica. You will be more than happy with the repairs, although the time length is a killer. I had my Contax 645 overhaul by them. They repaired several of Contax 35mm gear. Tocad America has a 3 to 4 man staff, so you have to have a lot of patience.</p>

    <p>Evan</p>

  15. <p>Maciek,</p>

    <p>Nice photos, especially with a scale - focusing rangefinder. The Rollei 35S has a nice "color" signature to it and I'm guessing that its the HFT coating from Rollei. Some years back, I remember some folks speaking of the slight formula difference between the HFT coating from Rollei, versus the T* from Zeiss.</p>

    <p>I have the 35S too and enjoy it as much as you do.</p>

  16. <p>Wouter,</p>

    <p>At the inception of the Hasselblad H-1 and the Asian country counterpart, Fuji 645GX, Hasslelblad issued warranty repairs only for Hasselblad badgered equipment. FOr the Fuji badgered eq</p>

  17. <p>Marian,</p>

    <p>As far as I know there isn't any other similar NEW scanner available that is up to the capability of the Eversmart/iQSmart scanner product line. Although they are no longer supported by a bankrupt Kodak, there is available spare parts & maintenance available from several sources.</p>

    <p>First, check Genesis Equipment.<br /> Ask for Michael Streeter, as he is the man to go to for repair, spare parts,and help in upgrading your scanner.<br>

    http://www.genesis-equipment.com/contact.aspx</p>

    <p>There is also another source, and he is an individual who has worked his magic out there.<br>

    Name is Ryan Newton and his website is:<br>

    http://foreversmarts.com/</p>

    <p>In the end, its entirely up to you if you would rather abandon the scanner and attempt to buy another so-called "workhorse" OR stick with what you have and get it maintain by either one of the two named parties. For me, I'm currently using an Eversmart Pro II along with an Imacon Precision II and a Canon 4000FSU for my needs. Each has its limits and usefulness for what I need to do.<br>

    Evan</p>

     

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