sbp

<p>Following that logic, what lens for Russia, at 15 times the land mass of India....</p>

<p><img src="http://spinmxp.smugmug.com/Portraits/Street-Portraits/Shanghai-SEP-08-53a/763271689_m5KQV-X2.jpg" alt="" width="768" height="960" /></p>

<p>@Jorgen - Nice shot. Is this a crop or as-taken? I ask because I have heard that the 12-24 is very soft in the corners. Are you happy with the IQ from this lens?<br>

Sorry to learn that PF has gigantic feet....</p>

<p>I travel to India several times a year for business. My lightweight kit is FF body, 24-70 2.8L and 85 1.8. The 85 is small and light, but great for portraits and low light. Enjoy the trip. Whether you shoot landscape, architecture or people, India is a target rich environment. </p>

<p>FWIW, I tried the Sigma 12-24 on a 1Ds3 body. It mounted and functioned normally. I didn't buy it, however, because the IQ was a bit weak, especially at the lower end. Didn't seem worth it just to go wider than my 17-40L, which produces great results and is price competitive with the Sigma.</p>

<p>IMO, Brad and Leslie C are on point. The only time I shoot from the waist is when it might provide an interesting perspective. Trying to conceal the fact that I'm photographing someone is not on my agenda. That said, 99.99% of all shots I try from the waist end up on the cutting room floor...<br>

<img src="http://spinmxp.smugmug.com/Street-Scenes/Street-Life/Paris-JULY-09-041/791221269_9c4z6-XL.jpg" alt="" width="548" height="768" /></p>

<p>Sanford. Thanks. I do most PP adjustments in Aperture first, then use Silver EFX for black and white conversion. Very few shots with P&S camera, though. Samples here... http://spinmxp.smugmug.com/</p>

<p>A friend of mine dropped a 1Ds3 into a salt marsh while shooting at water's edge. It was underwater for about 5 seconds before he could recover it. He hosed it off with fresh water, dried it off, changed (L) lens, and went back to shooting. While I have never submerged my 1D3 or 1Ds3, both have worked in rain, snow, blowing sand and generally get treated as tenderly as hammers. Never a failure.<br>

What is that worth? </p>

<p>Av - 90%<br>

Tv - 10%</p>

<p>Cheap P&S, really bad light, PP with SilverFX<br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3221754953_948c678b69_b.jpg" alt="" width="818" height="1024" /></p>

<p>Pnina: Your intent to use colour as a compositional element is interesting. IMO, this shot would have been more effective if the red dress was the only red element. As it is, the red signs and red reflections dilute the <strong>impact</strong> of the dress. Maybe a different angle (if you could run fast enough to get it) or a crop and selective desaturation of the other red elements?<br>

<img src="http://spinmxp.smugmug.com/Street-Scenes/Street-Life/Chengdu-AUG-2009-019a/715936427_NsLMF-L.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /></p>

<p>Great. Begs the question - reading, retrieving, or resting. <br>

<img src="http://spinmxp.smugmug.com/Street-Scenes/Street-Life/Paris-JULY-09-033/733396722_5xtpp-L.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="570" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3334944590_5df7b72416_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="819" /></p>

<p>I usually keep the hood on my 24-70 in the working position, and never pay much attention to barrel extension. Yesterday, while cleaning, I ran the barrel out and noticed some free play. Holding the body of the lens, with the barrel fully extended, there is a little more than 1mm of lateral movement at the front element. The lens focuses and zooms fine, and IQ seems unchanged since new (about 2 years).<br>

My question is this - is this amount of free play normal, or is it time to visit my local Canon shop? Thanks...</p>

<p>Agree with Robert. I recently bought a copy ET-65III for a new 85 f/1.8, and it was very difficult to mount and remove. I then bought the Canon hood which works perfectly. Sometimes a bargain is not a bargain.</p>

<p>Reduce flare, offer physical protection for the front element. I always mount the hood, no matter what the light conditions. </p>

<p>Another vote for the TS, either 17 or 24. These are unmatched at controlling distortion and converging lines, which are particularly noticeable in architectural work. Start saving your pennies if you rent one, though. Once you see what these lenses can do there's no going back...</p>

<p>Another vote for the 70-200 f/4L. Significantly better build and IQ for about the same price as the 70-300. </p>

<p>I'm pretty sure the flash overrides camera. I always shoot in Av mode and, when using a 580EX, set 2nd curtain sync on the flash, and leave camera settings alone.</p>

<p>With that kit, my suggestion is a tripod and a Sherpa. No shortage of photo ops in either city. </p>

<p>IMHO, as a convert from Nikon film to Canon digital, both companies make great bodies. Different, but both very capable. But bodies by themselves are just doorstops. Canon has a much wider selection of high quality glass, which, for me was the deciding factor. </p>

<p>FWIW, I used to use Manfrotto, but tried Benro at the suggestion of my local (Italian) camera shop. Their products are similar in form, fit, and function to Manfrotto and Gitzo, but at 1/3 the price. For a trip across China, I bought (in Shanghai) the Benro TRCB269 Travel Angel and BH-1 ballhead (using my Acra Swiss plates). It is sturdy, light, and the legs fold up over the center column, making a short package. I used this combo with a 1Ds3 body and 70-200/2.8L or 400DO/4 with no problems. Three weeks bashing around JiuZhaiGuo, Chengdu and Chongqing didn't have any effect on the rig. The Travel Angel series comes in a variety of sizes, from tiny to pretty robust. You can find Benro at any good camera shop in China.<br>

http://www.benro.com/products/catalog_search.asp?ID=194&v3=4</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I have 3 friends telling me that IS equivalents, while certainly helpful, tend to be less sharp than no-IS counterparts, is that not true, in your opinion?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That may be true if both are used on a tripod, or in a testing lab. In the real world, if you are hand holding, the benefit of IS becomes readily apparent, especially at longer focal lengths. No matter how sharp a lens is in the testing lab, any hand motion will degrade sharpness.</p>

<p>For portraits, I agree with others that the EF85 f/1.8 is a great lens. It is the only non-L lens I use, and the IQ is stunning. The corners may be slightly soft at 1.8, but that is not necessarily bad for portrait work. IMHO, when shooting at 1.8 or 2.0, the issue becomes accurate focusing and not lens performance. The bad shots are generally my fault...</p>

<p>In my experience, the 300+1.4 converter is equal or better to the 400 in IQ. The 300 has IS, which makes hand held shots viable. You also get the versatility of 300 or 420 just by carrying the small 1.4 extender. FWIW, I sold my 400 after trying the 300+1.4 combination.</p>

<p>Ditto Howard. I experimented with several different ballheads on my monopod, but gave up. The combination was just too wobbly to control. The Manfrotto 234RC is much easier to work with, and comes with an RC-2 quick release plate.</p>

<p>http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/lang/en/pid/2376</p>