kris-bochenek

<p>back</p><div></div>

<p>Side</p><div></div>

<p>One more try</p><div></div>

<p>Few weeks ago, two German friends decided to visit local rail road museum in Union, IL. They were loaded with some black and white Fuji and color Kodak. To state the obvious, those friends are Franke and Heidecke cameras. Rolleiflex Old Standard and Rolleicord Ia. I have talked about both of them at one time in the past, but they worked very well in a tandem as well. I got the old standard Rolleiflex over a year ago and I had it repaired. Although it is not the best looking camera, due to age, it works as well as the day it was made. It has two red windows in the back, one labeled B1 for 117 film and one B2 for 120 film. One can get fooled by the back window B1 as it looks as If it will work with 6x6 120, but what one needs to do is to align #1 frame inside the B2 window and let the transport mechanism take care of the rest. Here it is Rolleiflex Old Standard.</p>

<p>Good job with this beauty. I like the colors in your shots - very nice. All I can make out from the inscription is USSR Harkovsky Kombinat- years of Russian studies went to hell. Thank you for sharing.</p>

That and the shutter release button has threaded hole for cable release, while Leica would be solid button and one would use Leica nipple.

<blockquote> <p>As I generally find, the vintage gear sparked a number of conversations, with the young who have never seen such kit</p> </blockquote> <p>Ha! just last week while shooting with my Yashica TLR, I was approached by a young (20 maybe) man asking me about the camera and if it shoots black and white. I proceeded to explain to him that it shoots whatever film I put in it. He also said "So I assume you cannot see the results on the back" I said "that's right" it's nice to see such interest in classic gear from younger generation. Few weeks ago, I had my camera (Rolleiflex Old Standard) pose for a photog at the rail road museum in Union, IL. He liked my camera so much, he wanted to take few shots. </p>

<p>Michael, send me a private message with your info, and I will mail the lens on Monday. Enjoy.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon E lens 50mm f/1.8 Pancake that is looking for good home. Clean glass and snappy aperture. The focus is OK but a little rough. I will ship it free within the US. All others would have to pitch in for shipping.<br> If you are interested, please post here and the first person to do so gets it. </p><div></div>

<p>I use both, selenium meter and digital one. It is Sekonic (that pesky P was to close) The one I have is Sekonic Auto-Lumi. Very easy to use. My Gossen Pilot 2 is also nice and it has incident light metering function, but it has never been the same since its crash onto concrete pavement. I also use Sekonic 306s digital meter from time to time. If I want to focus on a shot and have time for it, I take my Minolta spot meter. Buy one and test it to see if it works OK- When I got mine I tested it against evenly lit wall and noted the reading, I then checked my Nikon's meter on the same wall (meter set to center weight) and noted the reading- it should be very close. Good luck.</p>

<p>I remember asking this type of question few years back when I got my first meterless camera. Just buy analog light meter such as Sekpnic. It will run you $30 and it's much easier than carrying a digi cam.</p>

Yesterday, while shooting downtown Chicago, I met a man with F2. Whenever that happens I wonder if they are p.net members. Anyhow, very nice post, louis . I really like the detail shots of the camera itself and the results you got are quite neat.

<blockquote> <p>Grats & thanks for sharing. The video was inspiring although the camera looked scarily shaky to me.<br /> Curiosity: how did you get an ISO setting for the paper figured out? And what are you using for the darkroom videos? Does that video kit work for film processing too?</p> </blockquote> <p>Jochen, <br> The ISO of the paper was obtained through testing with smaller (real camera). The darkroom video and processing part was recorded using Sony camera with "nightshot" option. For film processing, however, everything needs to be done in total darkness, so no camera will work. </p>

<p>I have built a large format camera 11x14 using crap wood and an old lens. Check it out.<br>

<p>Lovely Yashicamat and some nice results from it. I have the same one. Although it doesn't have chrome bits and crank is plastic, it is still an excellent camera. Thank you for sharing.</p>

Yup. I too think that inscriptions add to the character. Thank you for visiting my thread.

Nice writeup very informative. I have one of those cameras, but since the rangefinder is off, I didn't bother to shoot with it. Maybe if I could get it fixed, I'd shoot a roll or two. Nice examples from the brick.

<p>and this one here is for JDM. I know how much he likes water towers, so I got one from my town. It is the tallest structure and is all freshly painted blue.<br> I will have to work on my direct sun avoidance technique, but I'm quite happy with the results. I find the lens is sharp, but with right conditions in play, prone to flare. I hope you enjoyed my short Russian presentation.</p><div></div>

<p>and more cars. </p><div></div>

<p> close up of the dash</p><div></div>

<p>Now, here I noticed that I got a bit of flare. The sun was getting low and it was right in my lens in this next shot. I will try to avoid that next time around.</p><div></div>

<p>The show was filled with Thunderbirds. Almost one side of the lot was just that.</p><div></div>

<p>Odd looking car, I forgot its name....</p><div></div>

<p>Classic cars</p><div></div>

<p>Inscription</p><div></div>