david.elliott
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Posts posted by david.elliott
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<p>Look at the flickr M-Mount group pool. <br>
Tags are here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/m-mount/discuss/72157600006086860/</p>
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<p>contact jiri_e from ebay</p>
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<p>To Josh and everyone who is writing an article: Thank You!</p>
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<p>Dont forget that if you need to enlarge bigtime, you can use Genuine Fractals to help you out. </p>
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<p>Shouldnt be a problem at all with the v500. I havent printed at that size, but I know I could. :P</p>
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<p>They stack up well. Check out the flickr m-mount group for photos from various lenses. </p>
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<p>As to a negligence claim? </p>
<p>Maybe. Depends how crafty your attorney is. </p>
<p>You register because it affects damages awards. </p>
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<p>To prevail in a negligence claim, you generally have to show a duty, breach of the duty, causation, and damages. </p>
<p>So you would probably have to show that CVS had a duty to train him regarding digital copyrights, that CVS breached that duty (did not train him, or did not train him effectively), that the breach of this duty led to the copyright infringement (which you would also have to prove), and that you were damaged. </p>
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<p>Contax G series were autofocus rangefinders. Not medium format though :|</p>
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<p>Hi Alvin-</p>
<p>I zoom way in when selecting the "clear leader." That makes it much easier to select it and only it, and not any part of the exposed negative. </p>
<p>I found this tutorial very useful. Thought I would pass it along to you. <br>
http://benneh.net/blog/index.php/2008/04/21/better-colour-neg-scanning-with-vuescan/</p>
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<p>Nope. </p>
<p>Before or after you do a scan, you can go to Image --> Graph b/w</p>
<p>Then you can drag the graph to adjust the black or white points. You just drag the little triangles in the graph to adjusted the histogram. </p>
<p>With my scans at least, this lets me get a better initial dng file (my output of choice) that looks less washed out or flat. Easier for me to adjust everything I want to in Lightroom if I adjust the black and white points in Vuescan first. </p>
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<p>Are you setting your black and white point with the b&W graph? </p>
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<p>Given the current state of the economy, who knows. </p>
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<p>My adobe acrobat lets me save as a jpeg. I just go to file / save as, and select JPEG from the dropdown list. </p>
<p>If your version doesnt let you, you can email me and I will convert it and email you back if you want. </p>
<p>Let me know. </p>
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<p>Vertical misalignment is not normal, but it also doesnt affect focusing accuracy. </p>
<p>If it bothers you, since this is a new camera, just send it back like Alex said. </p>
<p>A lot of the time, the vertical alignment is fine and it just looks misaligned due to your eye placement. </p>
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<p>When you are on a limited budget, it is always about compromise. :)</p>
<p>Personally, I went with a Bessa R3M and a Nokton 50/1.5. I have been very, very happy with the purchase. But I definitely understand where you are coming from with the emotional, visceral, irrational aspect.</p>
<p>Recently, I saved a bit of money and just bought a Bessa R and will probably buy a Jupiter-8 to go with it. I would prefer a CV 35/2.5 but just dont have the funds now. At any rate, this will be my go-to kit for carrying around Washington DC where I just dont want to carry around my expensive (to me anyway) gear. I'm selling my Rollei 35 which is what I have been using - it is too small for me and I seem to forget to scale focus fairly often. I look through the viewfinder and think "oo we are in focus, click. ... ooops."</p>
<p>I hope my rambling helps a bit. I guess what I am saying is, ....<br>
(1) You can go with the M7 and keep the lenses you have by purchasing adapters; or<br>
(2) You can purchase a different Leica M body (CLE maybe?) and get some CV or Leica glass, or keep your current lenses; or<br>
(3) You can purchase one of the R*A Bessa bodies and get some CV or leica glass, or keep your current lenses. </p>
<p>Personally, I would probably get one of the Bessa bodies, get some adapters and keep using my current lenses plus maybe add one wider angle CV lens, buy a bunch of film, and go on a short vacation. : )</p>
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<p>If the lenses you have are giving you the results you want, I see no reason to "upgrade." On that same note, you'll be spending money on the adapters, which is money you could put toward a new lens - just something to keep in mind.</p>
<p><br /> Though you could always get a different, less expensive M body and some Leica glass to go with it.</p>
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<p>freestyle</p>
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<p>After shooting the film, you could mail it to your home before departing.</p>
<p>Enjoy the trip. :)</p>
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<p>tri-x for 400. never bothered to read about 100.</p>
<p>tons of info over at the rangefinder forums. look there. </p>
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<p>There is no need to sift through categories - just go to the main page of the forum and you see all the new posts right in front of you. </p>
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<p>Funny stuff.</p>
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<p>Looks great!</p>
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<p>Why dont you ask Dwayne?</p>
How "good" is the Hexanon 50mm/2?
in Leica and Rangefinders
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