curtis_lowe

<p>As per James suggestion I scraped both sides and the image came off the purple side.</p>

No problem Alan, thanks for your help.

<p>Sorry to bring this up again but having originally exposed the purple side by mistake, I have since tried the yellow/brown side but found it to need more exposure, so I'm wondering if the purple side is actually the emulsion side? The anti halation layer seems to wash off the yellow/brown side.</p>

Thanks Alan, I think I exposed the purple side. Will it make much difference?

 

I didn't feel much difference between the sides Stephen but will test again.

<p>I want to make enlarged negatives for some alternative processes like cyanotype etc. and recently got some 8x10 Arista Ortho Lith 2.0 Film. I'm unsure which side is the emulsion side as both are shiny. One side is purple while the other side is yellow/brown. Can anyone advise?</p>

<p>Thank you Robert.</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies. Great information Robert.</p>

<p>I read somewhere that other films will work but to use "half strength" potassium permanganate. Do you know anything about this Robert?</p>

<p>I want to try developing Foma's R100 35mm film in their positive developing kit and have some questions.</p>

<p>(1) How is the re-exposure done? The instructions say 30 seconds on each side of the film at a 1 meter distance from a 100 watt bulb. So do I just take the lid off the tank and hold it towards the light for 30 seconds and then turn the film reel over to do the opposite side?</p>

<p>(2) There is no mention of agitation for each stage of the process.</p>

<p>(3) I'd like to try some 120 films so has anyone successfully processed any other films as positives in this kit?</p>

<p>I am using the Tetenal C41 kit for the first time but the instructions do not mention agitation. Should it be every 30 seconds or every minute and do I turn the tank up side down as I do for B&W?<br>

Also it recommends pre-heating the tank but should the film be pre-washed also or is there any need to do this?</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies.</p>

<p>The instructions do not mention agitation. Should it be every 30 seconds or every minute and do I turn the tank up side down as I do for B&W?</p>

<p>Also it recommends pre-heating the tank but should the film be pre-washed also or is there any need to do this?</p>

<p>I am using Tetenal C41 chemicals for the first time and the instructions show different processing times for three different temperatures.</p>

<p>Standard development at 100 degrees is 3 minutes 15 seconds<br>

Longer development at 86 degrees is 8 minutes<br>

Rapid development at 113 degrees is 2 minutes</p>

<p>I am using Tetenal's C41 (1 Liter) kit for my first time developing colour neg film in a standard developing tank and have a few questions.</p>

<p>The instructions say to mix up the full liter and develop as follows:<br>

First 1 to 4 films for 3 minutes 15 seconds<br>

Next 5 to 8 films for 3 and half minutes<br>

Next 9 to 12 films for 3 minutes 45 seconds<br>

Next 13 to 16 films for 4 minutes</p>

<p>I presume this means I can develop up to four films together and re-use the developer another three times? But if I only develop 1 or 2 films each time, will I still only get four development runs out of the kit and therefor not get as much value?</p>

<p>Is it ok for example to only mix up half the kit if only doing two rolls at a time? This way I could increase the capacity and still get sixteen rolls in total.</p>

<p>What agitation is required?</p>

 

<p>The instruction state the full pack must be mixed to make 5L stock solution. As I may not be developing very often, is it ok to measure out a smaller amount to mix?</p>

<p>I am wondering if any members have used the Tetenal and Rollei Digibase C41 kits and how they compare?</p>

<p>The Tetenal is a 3-bath kit but the Rollei Digibase is a 6 or 7 parts. Does that suggest the Digibase is better?</p>

<p>So does anyone know which other makes of 4x5 cameras would use the same size lens board as on the Cambo SC-2 ?</p>

<p> </p>

Are lens boards a standard size between different makes and models?

<p>A friend of mine is giving me some lenses and film holders that he has to spare from his Cambo SC-2 4x5 monorail camera. I have priced this model but its expensive so I'm wondering if there are other manufacturers with models that will fit the same lenses and film holders as the Cambo SC-2 but which may be a cheaper camera?</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for all the information. Plenty to think about now.</p>

<p>Can someone tell me the main differences bewtween Field and Monorail Large Format cameras?</p>

<p>It hasn't happened yet but I was just curious as cyan would already be at zero and I could not reduce it and magenta to decrease the yellow in the print.</p>

<p>I know cyan is not normally required when colour printing as you can make the colour changes by using yellow and magenta filtration only. So I leave cyan at zero and I use the other two dials to correct colours, but if my yellow dial has reached its maximum and I still have a yellow cast, I can't move the yellow dial up any more so I now would have to reduce magenta and cyan. The problem is that my cyan would already be at zero so I'm a bit confused. It has not happened to me yet but I'm just curious.</p>

<p>I thought that maybe the density dial was adjusted in relation to moving the colour dials to keep exposure times constant, would that be right?</p>

<p>My colour enlarger has the three colour dials plus a density dial. I know when colour printing how the colour dials change the colour of my prints but I'm not sure how to use the density dial?</p>

<p>How does Cibachrome printing differ from RA-4 printing? I know one is from slides and the other from negatives and they use different chemistry, but is there a big difference in the printing process?</p>

<p>Is there any way of finding out the correct exposure time for doing contact sheets with colour negatives. I understand how B&W are done be finding the max black exposure from a clear peice of film. Is it a similar test for colour neg film?</p>