Jenifer Selwa Photography

Jammey, it looks like you had a wonderful setting and a great couple. Very creative candids! Lovely work! One suggestion if you watermark your images - you should probably put the ?2004 Essential Moments on there instead of just Essential Moments. The copyright symbol can be typed in PS or Windows by holding the Alt-key and 0169.

I started the digital bandwagon in 1998 with my first 1MP Fuji digicam. Went until 2002 and then bought a Mavica CD 4.0MP, and then upgraded to the Nikon 5700 June 2003. Owned it four months and then took the plunge last fall with the DRebel, and now upgraded to the 10D. I feel I've improved dramatically in terms of composition and exposure with the digital SLR plunge because of the instantaneous feedback. 15,000 images and counting in 12 months time!

One more from a wedding last year...I was standing on a stage so I had a looking down perspective...this idea I got out of a book and the bride really liked this shot as well...<div></div>

OOPS! *BLUSH* Wrong image...<div></div>

This one has become one of my standard and is a favorite among my girls...<div></div>

Thanks for the help, Jonathan and Ole. Ole, I was unaware that Gorlitz was a town. I am familiar with the Ica Dresden, and I knew that Dresden was a place of manufacture, so I guess you learn something new every day! Thanks for that clarification as well.

 

I love these old plate cameras. I managed to pick up an Ica Dresden 6x9 (9x12) pre-Zeiss merger camera (cute thing!!) with an Ica Litonar 105cm csystal clear lens and light-tight bellows last year with a perfectly working shutter for $100 from a local shop. I also was lucky enough to get a rollfilm back to fit it from Europe off eB*y - still need to get a roll of film run through it.

Haha...

I am trying to date an older Thagee 6x9 plate camera with a Meyer

Gorlitz lens in it that I picked up off the eB*y German website some

time ago. It's a Meyer-Gorlitz No. 486767 Doppel Anastigmat Veraplan

4.5 10.5cm. I've done web searches and can't seem to find the

Gorlitz serial number lists I've run across in the past. Any help

appreciated!

I saw the post below referring to sleepers in the classic lines. I

really like 35mm and 120 rangefinder cameras, especially from the

1970s (already shooting Zeiss Ikonta A 6x4.5 1935 with Tessar with

stellar results). I am going to the Caribbean in a couple weeks and

would like to take an el-cheapo compact rangefinder along with me

for fun that would still give decent results to run some black and

white or infrared film through on those contrasty beaches. Any

suggestions?<div></div>

Hi Stefano!

 

I actually just sold my 200/2.8 lens for a 70-200/4L zoom. Used it quite frequently with the 1.4x converter. INCREDIBLE lens. Lightning fast, quiet, and the QUALITY! Does not suffer one bit, even wide open. Take a look at some of my lighthouse storm images for examples. All shot with the DRebel body. A purchase you will definitely not regret!

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I shoot digital and film, like most out there. Digital is used for 90% of my landscape and nature work, and weddings? Almost all film. I don't have the patience to sit down and edit that many images. I'd rather be out shooting a lighthouse! While I adore shooting weddings, and the extra money is nice, my love always will be in nature and landscape photography. I'd much rather shoot family and senior portraits for the extra money. But my theory in shooting film at weddings is that I can hand all the film over to the lab, let them process and color correct, and I organize the prints into a proof book for my clients. My lab charges $8/roll of 36 exposures and do a fantastic job of printing and color correcting on Crystal Archive (and I'm fussy because I've been fully trained on a Frontier as a one hour lab manager for a large Midwest retail chain and know what it can do). Reprints are done by me and uploaded to MPix. I do shoot some digital images at weddings - ususally it's on my backdrop setup I take for the bride and groom only. It's just easier to shoot film... :)<div></div>

Thanks, guys, for the quick and thoughtful responses! I will be sure to update when he decides to make a purchase. :)

His kit lens is not autofocusing properly and is making clackety noises, so he thinks it's done for. I just sent him an email to feel him out for a 28/2.8 and the 50/1.8 to supplement his Sigma 70-300/F4-5.6. I told him the two primes would give him far better quality than the cheap Canon zooms...

Can anyone recommed a CHEAP but decent consumer zoom for an Elan 7E

that renders halfway decent images? I have a friend looking for such

an item and does not want to spend over $150. He's looking to

replace the 28-90 kit lens that came with his camera. I already

mentioned the 50mm 1.8 but I think he really wants to stay with a

wide or semi-wide angle zoom. Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Hi! I just picked up the Canon 17-40/4L and it takes 77mm filters. That's the equivalent of 27-64 with the 10D 1/6 crop factor. The quality out of this lens is phenominal. However, if you want something a bit wider, you could look into Sigma's 12-24 or 15-30 ultrawides. I know the 15-30 takes rear gelatin mount filters and the lens shade is non-removable. More information on these lenses can be seen <a href="http://www.sigmaphoto.com/html/zoom_intro.htm">here</a>.

I still use my ND 0.6 and ND 0.9 when shooting waterfall shots in bright noon daylight to slow the water down, an effect you can't get with Photoshop after the fact...

 

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Little Pigeon River, Smoky Mountains, 10 seconds with ND 0.9

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Having just gone from a Sigma 24-135 zoom and a Canon 200 prime now to a 17-40/4L and 70-200/4L, along with a 1.4x extender, I wish I'd done it a long time ago. I now keep a 50mm/1.8 and a 35mm/2 if I need faster glass in addition to the two zooms. A combination you definitely wouldn't regret!

Hi Damian, I just sold my 200/2.8 M1 for a 70-200/4L. Incredible lens. Used it frequently with my DRebel and also the Canon 1.4x converter, which gives you an option for a bit greater reach. Take a look at my lighthouse storm photography for examples. The lens does not disappoint! Fast, quiet, and light enough to handhold.<div></div>

I think I found my answer <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A2n1">here</a>. I was shooting with my 17-40/F4 L and it did indeed have a UV filter. Pretty cool trick!

I shot some aurora images last night, and as I am post processing, I

am noticing this "bullseye" right in the middle of the shots. I shot

in RAW and converted to JPG, and working with the JPG files -

something perhaps with the camera, or maybe happened in the

conversion process? I looked at the original RAW files and it's

there, too. I can clone it out, but it sure is annoying. Anyone have

any ideas?<div></div>

The latest from www.spacew.com:

 

MIDDLE LATITUDE AURORAL ACTIVITY WATCH UPGRADED TO A WARNING

Issued: 20:15 UTC on 07 November 2004

Solar Terrestrial Dispatch

www.spacew.com

 

 

VALID BEGINNING AT: EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY

VALID UNTIL: 23:00 UTC (6 pm EST) ON 10 NOVEMBER

 

HIGH RISK PERIOD: 07-08, THEN 09 NOVEMBER (UTC DAYS)

MODERATE RISK PERIOD: 07-10 NOVEMBER

 

PREDICTED ACTIVITY INDICES: 30, 45, 60, 30 (07 NOVEMBER - 10

NOVEMBER)

 

POTENTIAL MAGNITUDE OF MIDDLE LATITUDE AURORAL ACTIVITY: MODERATE TO

HIGH

 

POTENTIAL DURATION OF THIS ACTIVITY: MAIN BELT = 12 HOURS

MINOR BELT = 18 - 24 HOURS

 

ESTIMATED OPTIMUM OBSERVING CONDITIONS: NEAR LOCAL MIDNIGHT

 

EXPECTED LUNAR INTERFERENCE: LOW AFTER LOCAL MIDNIGHT

 

OVERALL OPPORTUNITY FOR OBSERVATIONS FROM MIDDLE LATITUDES: FAIR TO

GOOD

 

AURORAL ACTIVITY *MAY* BE OBSERVED APPROXIMATELY NORTH OF A LINE

FROM...

(THIS LINE IS VALID *ONLY* IF FAVORABLE STORM CONDITIONS OCCUR)

 

NORTHERN OREGON TO NORTHERN UTAH TO WYOMING TO NEBRASKA TO

NORTHERN

MISSOURI TO ILLINOIS TO KENTUCKY TO VIRGINIA.

 

ACTIVITY *MAY* ALSO BE OBSERVED APPROXIMATELY NORTH OF A LINE FROM...

(THIS LINE IS VALID *ONLY* IF FAVORABLE STORM CONDITIONS OCCUR)

 

NORTHERN FRANCE TO CENTRAL GERMANY TO CENTRAL POLAND TO BELARUS TO

CENTRAL

RUSSIA.

 

NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTHERN REGIONS OF AUSTRALIA MAY ALSO OBSERVE

PERIODS OF

ACTIVITY.

 

SYNOPSIS...

 

A moderately strong solar disturbance impacted the Earth near

18:27 UTC

on 07 November. This disturbance was larger than anticipated and is

producing

periods of enhanced auroral activity. More significant storm-level

auroral

activity is expected over the next 12 to 18 hours as this disturbance

matures. Widespread observations of auroral activity may be possible

tonight.

 

Another potentially strong disturbance could arrive on 09

November.

Analysis of the solar event is still in-progress. We expect the

latter half

of the UTC day of 08 November to be less active and then pick up

again when

this next disturbance arrives.

 

This warning will remain valid through 23:00 UTC (6 pm EST) on

10 November. It will then be updated, downgraded to a watch or

allowed to

expire altogether. For updated information, visit:

http://www.spacew.com/aurora/forum.html. For real-time plots of

current

activity, visit: http://www.spacew.com/plots.html

 

PLEASE REPORT VALID OBSERVATIONS OF AURORAL ACTIVITY TO:

http://www.spacew.com/submitsighting.html

Everything was shot with a Sunpak 555 flash with an Omnibounce diffuser.

Let's try that again...

 

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=445884">Wedding</a><div></div>

This was a non-paid <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?

folder_id=445884">wedding</a> for my cousin on a tight budget and

was a gift. Would love any feedback! Thanks!<div></div>

I did decide to get the G3. I will have it sometime next week. Thanks to all for the input!