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derrickdehaan

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Posts posted by derrickdehaan

    40D body only or 450D kit?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Get the 40D hands down. I own a 400D and a 40D. Images are nearly identicle, but the 40D has far superior ergonomics. 2 control wheels is a plus. Its built 50 times better than the xxxD series and has more features. The top LCD is a huge bonus as well. I would not even question which to get. </p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

    Fast and Slow Lenses: A bit confused.

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>For shooting landscapes stopped down, the only advantage you will have is a brighter viewfinder to compose the shot with. <br>

    Any lens you set to f/8 lets in the same amount of light when you release the shutter. Lens are at their widest aperture before shutter release (this is speaking of modern lenses), thats why looking through a "fast" lens looks brighter than looking through a "slow" lens.<br>

    Derrick</p>

    <p> </p>

    Question on how to improve wildlife shot

    in Nature

    Posted

    <p>Henrik, when I shoot wildlife, I shoot as follows for birds in flight:<br />Aperture priority, f/6.3 to f/8, I crank up the ISO until my shutter speeds are 1/800 or higher. I shoot center AF point only on servo. I find that shooting aperture priority keeps me fairly consistant. I used to shoot manual, but was missing a lot of shots while changing settings as the birds/animals moved into darker or brighter areas. I have a 400D and 40D. I would not hesitate to put that 400D at ISO 400 on your next outing.<br />When I first started shooting wildlife, I thought shutter speeds that froze "human" movement would be applicable....nope. Critters are much fast than us. <br />Derrick</p>

    Help with selecting Alienbees setup

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Folks, I am ordering a setup of 4 Alienbee monolights and need some advice in choosing which power of heads to go with. They have 400 w/s, 800 w/s, and 1600 w/s units. Should I go with 4 800 units or perhaps 2 1600 units and 2 800 units? I am not really familiar with studio lighting, so I am purchasing this setup with hopes that I can master it within approx. 1 year. I am a nature and wildlife shooter, but a portrait studio has always captivated some of my interest. Now, please don't flame me and assume that I plan on doing portraits 2 days after unboxing my lights. Like I said, I am giving myself at least a year....if it takes 3, then so be it. <br>

    this is what I am looking at getting: <a href="http://www.alienbees.com/busy.html">http://www.alienbees.com/busy.html</a><br>

    Does anyone see any advantages of getting the lower power units?</p>

    <p>Can you kind folks please recommend a straight forward, non-bank breaking light meter to use with these strobes?</p>

    <p>Thanks,<br>

    Derrick</p>

    Which is preferable between100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM and 3

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Although I have never used either lens, I too will "enrich" this topic with my personal experiences. I got interested in bird/wildlife photography and purchased a Sigma 50-500. After a few months of correcting CA, I decided to purchase a Canon prime instead. I never used the Sigma anywhere except 500mm, and always wanted more reach. I bought the 600mm f/4 IS. My advice....get the longest you can afford. And stick with a prime for quality. A 1.4 teleconverter works fantastic on most primes.</p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

    1.4x converter

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Yes, your shutter speed will still automatically expose the scene correctly. Everything will function just like normal. You basically won't even notice that it is on there. The camera still funtions in the same ways. The meter in the viewfinder still works the same. And very generally speeking, centering your meter without the extender (like normal) means you still center the meter the same way with it attached. The only differences you will see are that you would no longer be able to get to 2.8 aperture and the viewfinder my be slightly darker to view through.</p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

    This looks like front focusing to me....

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Dan,<br>

    Thanks for the link. I have used that exact chart/website for testing lenses before, but find it a pain to use for supertelephoto lenses with a very long minimum focusing distance. I guess I could rack the Sigma back to 50mm, but I did all my shooting with it at 500mm, so I wanted to be sure it was spot on there.</p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

    Ballhead for extreme weather

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <p>I have used my Bogen 322RC2 grip ballhead in those low temps many times. I would not use anything but a grip ballhead in those conditions because I'll be damned if I am taking my gloves off to fiddle with the little knobs of a ballhead in -20° weather. This is of course not used with really long lenses. I usually have a gripped 40D with 17-70 Sigma or 70-200 2.8 IS. Sometimes a prime in between the two. This settup is mounted on a Manfrotto 055MF3 carbon fiber tripod. I think the long grip also gives a person more "leverage" to rotate the assembly on the ball in extreme temps.</p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

    This looks like front focusing to me....

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Robert,<br>

    Thanks for that insightful link. Much appreciated. The lens will likely soon be on its way back to me, and I will put it on my bodies and test it. If it has a problem then, it will then be sent to Sigma for calibration. If it is fine, then....well my friend may perhaps have to borrow the lens and one of my bodies to catch the bird migration. Thanks for the help folks.</p>

    <p>Derrick</p>

     

    This looks like front focusing to me....

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for the conformation David. I personally used this lens prior to loaning it with my 40D and 400D bodies without this issue. I just cannot believe that it would do this on a 30D when it worked fine on both of my bodies. But his other lenses focus fine with his 30D. I did ship this lens to him via USPS, but it was packed very, very well. He stated that it was still very well packed when it arrived. I guess there is still a possibility that it took a hard whack, but the box indicated no such signs. </p>

    This looks like front focusing to me....

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I have another thread running about loaning my friend my Sigma 50-500. he is shooting with it on his 30D body. He is a very skilled photographer although a hobbiest. This is the consistant results of his images with this lens. It appears to suffer from front focusing. Taken using center point only and one shot mode.<br>

    <img src="http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t3/catfishmarbles/00001.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    Please help w/ 30D autofocus question

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for responding Ken. Yes, I agree with your statement. I was wondering if anyone has encountered a similar situation with a 30D and a 6.3 lens and autofocus. My friend is shooting wildlife in bright sunlight and getting what appears to be major front focusing.<br>

    The lens worked well on my 40D, and his 70-200 2.8 appeared to work fine on his 30D body. <br>

    Can someone suggest a good way to test a long telephoto under inside controlled conditions. The test chart at 45° is a pain with a very long minimum focusing distance.<br>

    Derrick</p>

    Please help w/ 30D autofocus question

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Wow, all of my text somehow didn't make it.<br>

    Folks, here is the situation....I used a Sigma 50-500 on my 40D with great results. Loaned the lens to a friend with a 30D body and he gets horrid results with focus. So my simple question is, does anybody know of any focusing issues with the 30D body and a lens with a max 6.3 aperture? The lens communicates to the body that it is 5.6 I am assuming for autofocus purposes. My friend tells me he is using solid support and the fastest shutter speeds he can. So, lets say that it is not operator error (which it could be). Anyone ever run into this? He said he stopped by a camera shop and they told him the lens was front focusing. I say nay, nay. I even emailed him the lens test chart photos I took with that lens before I sent it to him. Its spot on, although a tad soft at 500mm. <br>

    Derrick</p>

    Yellowstone Lens Choices

    in Nature

    Posted

    <p>I grew up just miles from Yellowstone and visited 3 times/year for years. I have since moved away, but will be making the same trip this Spring. As for you questions:<br>

    I would take the 70/200 over the 100-400. The Tokina would definetly be a fun lens to take for those great canyon/waterfall views as well as all the geo-thermal areas. <br>

    The gear you are taking is similar to what I have planned for my trip:<br>

    Canon 40D<br>

    Canon 600mm f/4 IS <br>

    Sigma 17-70<br>

    Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS<br>

    Both the 1.4 & 2x teleconverters.<br>

    Derrick</p>

     

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