petesphotography

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<p>Thanks for the reply Troy. I'll give that a try. I just thought it was strange that Im not able to resize that import window to make it fit the 10 inch screen of the netbook. Thanks!</p>

 

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<p>Im heading overseas in a couple of days on a photo assignment so I got a little Acer netbook with a 10 inch screen, so I can back up images to a hdd while on location. I plan to use Lightroom2 on the netbook. <br>

I ran a little test today but when at the import screen and I see the thumbnails on the right hand side and it says the option to import from current location but of course I want to import and copy to a new location. The problem is once I click that option the import button at the bottom is no long visible as its off the bottom of the screen. And no amount of pulling that window around will work. It doesnt even let me resize that import window. <br>

Ive read that if you set your screen resolution to a certain setting you are able to scroll down the screen. But I have mine at max and it does not scroll down at all. <br>

Can anyone help with how I can fix this please??? Its very annoying. <br>

Thanks!, Pete</p>

 

Hi everyone! Im a full time wedding photographer living in Japan. But early in the next year I want to make the

jump to freelance motor sport (mainly drift) photography for various magazines in other countries. My question is

has anybody out there experienced this kind of situation before? Not just for motor sports but freelancing for

overseas magazines in general. Did this work out for you? Enough work to do it full time? etc..

 

Any thoughts, input would be great thanks!

 

cheers, Pete (the Aussie in japan)

hey Steven. im an Aussie photog living in Japan also. and was also wondering the same thing. i listen to the various phtoography podcasts where they often talk about this kind of thing but none of it really applies to Japan i would think. so i would like to find out also.

i could be wrong but i think the 4gb limit is to prevent the sensor from getting too hot perhaps? im guessing there may be some down time after shooting a long video so the sensor has time to cool.

has anyone read anything about the focusing during video? i havent seen the info anywhere but im guessing its the same as the d90, only manual focus right? anyway im excited about it! even if you dont want to shoot video whats the harm in having it there just in case anyway!

im not sure which country your in but dont the main big camera stores that sell 2nd hand gear all come with at least a 6 month warranty on their 2nd hand gear? im not sure what the deal is in other parts of the world but here in Japan if theres any problems you can just take it back. i even got Canon to put in a brand new shutter unit free of charge on 2nd hand bodies ive bought that were still under the 6 month warranty.

For the past few years ive used the sigma ex 15-30mm on various eos bodies and liked it. but this year after

returning to pro photography for a living i noticed that while shooting formal shots of groups with studio light

set ups i would get vary irregular exposures even in manual mode. i would usually meter the scene first, take

some test shots with a colour chart, then do the shoot only to find exposures where fine on one body but on the

other body with all the same settings i was getting extreme over exposed images with most of the image blown out.

 

couldnt figure it out for ages so canon were nice enough to even throw in a new shutter unit for free into an old

10D i used as a back up cam. after the problem persisted i swapped the 10 for a 30D and it still happned. thats

when i realised it was the sigma lens i was using.

 

basically when i was doing the colour chart shots i would zoom the lens in to get a little tighter on the colour

chart and everything was fine. then for the actual group shots i would zoom out to fit everyone in and leave room

to crop after. thats when it is sending incorrect info to the camera somehow. so has anyone one else every heard

of this before?

guess i just need to get rid of it. or (luckely i live in the city where sigma lenses are made) take it to sigma

and get them to look at it.

 

thanks for any input!

 

cheers, Pete

just found this old beast in a 2nd hand shop here in Japan for sale for $360. condition looks to be all good. i already have the 70-200 2.8 IS L but thinking to get this one for my trip to Thailand next week just incase it gets stolen. is that a good price for it?

i just got myself an Omnibounce and ran a few basic tests. Cant seem much difference at all. tried 45degree bouncing and direct. both still had pretty sharp shadows on the wall behind. 8(

ah i see. i had a feeling thats what it might be. maybe like Canons efs series. Thanks very much for your quick replies! and for the link Don.

Just wondering if anyone would be able to inlighten me here. Im a Canon user but

my work just gave me a Kodak DCS proSLR/N with a couple of Nikon ED lenses to

use on it. One of which is the 17-55mm f2.8. I dont have any filters or hood on

this lens but when its on the Kodak body I get nasty vignetting untill about

24mm. Anybody know whats going on here? Is the lens designed for only 1.6 crop

factor bodies or another problem perhaps?

 

cheers, Pete