kent_hilburn

<p>Trash</p>

<p>Thanks everyone. I'll give it a try.</p>

<p>I bought a Canon 40D in early 08. I can't find the disk that has the drivers on it. I need to be able to download pictures to another computer. I went on the Canon site, but can't remember which one I need. Does Canon even let you download the drivers? Also, which one would it be? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Thanks Ben.</p>

<p>Mark, why should I want to save them to a RGB format instead of a JPEG? Does RGB produce better quality?</p>

<p>I know, don't you just hate rookies. <br>

I'm printing up some pictures for a friend for a birthday present. I've cropped the images to my liking. I've decided to go with 5X7's. So, my question is. Do I need to resize the prints after cropping back to 5X7 to make them look their best or does it matter. I'm using Photoshop Elements 6. I'll be taking them to a simple photo shop to have the work done. Also, they will be done in B&W. Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>You should get even using Photoshop. If you can take an overweight women and make her skinny, you should be able to do the opposite. LOL!</p>

<p>This thread got me thinking. Are there any situations or types of shots where one type of finish (gloss/matte/lustre) is better than the other or is it personal preference?</p>

<p>I'm not an expert, but you will probably have to take two pictures. One to expose the town and another one at a faster shutter speed to capture the detail of the moon. Then merge them.</p>

<p>Wow. I just learned a lot. Thanks guys. I did keep the original in both RAW and a JPEG, so I should be ok. Looking at the answers, does converting the image to a tiff file help with quality? </p>

<p>I'm thinking of having one of my jpegs printed. I have resized it down to 1500 X 1500 so it would fit on this website, so do I need to change it back to maximize the quality? I guess what I want to know is how do I get the maximum quality for the size I want to print it in. For example if I wanted to print it in a 5X7 size, do I need to resize it in Photoshop Elements to that size? My camera is a Canon 40D. Thanks for any help and if should have been posted in the "beginner" section, I apologize.</p>

<p>Kent</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>I have been doing some reseach on borders that some people put around their photo's on this site. Are there a lot more options with additional software that does that or just use Elements? I guess what I'm asking, are they about the same or should I buy the additional software?</p>

<p>Personally, I'd wait for spring. -25 is just a little too cold for me. </p>

<p>Thank you. </p>

<p>I have a Cannon 10-22mm wide angle lens with a 77mm ring size. I have some Cokin ND filters with the Z-Pro adaptor. What do I need to be able to use it for my 28-135mm that has a 72mm ring size. Going from 77mm to 72mm, do I need a "step down" ring or a "step up" ring with those dimensions? </p>

One suggestion. If you are shooting a pass play, either shoot at an angle that the players won't look into the flash or wait until after the catch. After a player has the ball, it usually doesn't matter. Usually.

Try photo clubs. It's helped me learn and I have met a lot of interesting people.

I can go back as far as the 60's and 70's. Those photos reminded me of so many things while I was a little kid growing up. Thanks for sharing.

Ok, I'm confused. Will the Z-Pro holder work without vigneting or should I get the X-Pro if I want to eliminate the vigneting. I'm in the same boat with the canon 10-22 lens. Also, Lee filters are really expensive when compared to Cokin. I've heard a lot of people say they can't tell the difference. I don't mind paying for quality, but if it takes a magnifying glass to see it, it's not worth it.

Just got back in town from trying that. I only had one shot at it. Used a Canon 70-300 4.0-5.6. You really need to shoot 250 sec or higher to catch the action. You have to use a flash at night to get that or buy a faster lenses. I not even sure a faster lenses will get you there if the lighting is poor. If you are unwilling to get a faster lenses you are going to have to use a flash. As someone mentioned above. You better position yourself where the flash doesn't go off in the players eyes. The further away you are the better, but that requires a big zoom. You could try and shoot the players at around 45 degrees to the field of play. That worked for me. You do miss some of the action, but it's better than nothing. It's really hard.

Thanks guys for all the information. I'll give the above a try and see. Thanks again.

Before I go out and buy 6 batteries to see. Will my old Vivitar flash work on my Canon 40D?

I live in the Sacramento area. This place is tough to beat. Tahoe and the Sierra's to the east. Napa, San Fran and the wine country to the west. That's just to name a few places.

Thanks Mark. I'm only going to get one or two shots at this. It's looks like I better go in Sept. when the suns still up.