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russell_brooks

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Posts posted by russell_brooks

  1. Hello all! I'm selling my CPP-2 with lift, and bottles. I have to

    check, but I think I have a few tanks and reels to go with it as

    well. I'm selling because my flat is just too small. The "catch", if

    you can call it that, is that it has a US power supply but it's here

    in London so you'll have to buy a power adaptor. I dont want to mess

    with finding the right packaging as it's quite big so it's for pick

    up in person only. I'm right near the main Jessops and all the

    classic camera shops near the British Museum so you can always make a

    good trip of it. Price? I dunno, what do you suggest, I'm open.

  2. The problem with these scans is that the plane of focus of the negative is bowed during scantime unless it's in a glass carrier. It only takes a little bit of bow to create the mushy look that Vic(?)'s jpg shows above. Check it under a loupe and I'm sure the original neagtive is crisp.
  3. Worried about forgetting to extend the lens? This I dont see as a problem. I've never even thought about it. And I would always go for the screwmount version if it's available and use the converter. Once you've used a iii body you start to realise how bulky the M3 is. I have an elmar, a summar, and a cron. I like the Elmar the best for it's size but it excludes most low light/indoor shooting.
  4. I've been to the shop Craig talks about and I seem to remember that had a decent selection. Also I've been to the shop Richard talks about on Nanjingdonglu and they had some upstairs as well. There was also one in downtown Xian that I saw had some stuff as well. Otherwise you might just want to make a big mail order purchase from the states or europe? That's what I'd do. Buy the dev and fix powder from one of these Chinese shops but fly in large abouts of film, papers, etc... from a western mail order company.
  5. It's not worth it. It's the canadian balsam coming off. At least that's what my repair guys says. He wants as much to repair it as it cost. So I'd sell it for whatever you can get and find one that is clean. Or if you have a minty body on it you might want to go ahead and pay the large repair bill and then you have something that'll last...
  6. The manual focus doesnt help the flat focal plane issue so dont let that trick you. Only glass. Why? The curvature of the film. It's 3 dimensional. Even if you get it sharp in foucs at 1/3 the distance from the center it's just a compromise. Also Lutz's idea of layering different scans at different focus points has merit except that it a) takes at least twice as long b) the layers dont match up exactly - the focal length has changed - and this adds up to about 20 pixels in my experience at full resolution.
  7. I have a III and a IIIf. The viewfinder next to the rangefinder on the IIIf is a big deal. You'll want to get a model that has this rather than the III. And you'll want to do a full CLA even if it seems ok. Mine is being cleaned by a leading repairman in the UK as we speak. He also mentions that the IIIf inside design is more light-tight than the earlier models.

    The Elmar is a good pairing. It even goes in my blue jeans back pocket if I dont sit down. Light meter in the front pocket. Looks a bit funny, but the point of this is that you dont even have to wear a jacket or something with big pockets. I've been turned off of my Ms as a result - too big, too heavy.

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