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todd_phillips3

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Posts posted by todd_phillips3

  1. <p>I am partial to Portra but just got my first roll of Ektar 100/35mm developed and was pleasantly surprised with some of the people shots/skin tones... As others have said, it took lower light to turn it on.... These are the lab scans (Noritsu)... </p>

     

     

    <img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/pg/upload/2015/03/07/20150307160710-0b857b23.jpg" alt="" width="597" height="900" />

     

     

     

     

    Camera

    QSS-32_33

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Camera

    QSS-32_33

     

     

     

     

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    <img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/pg/upload/2015/03/13/20150313021126-bdb88e5c.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="679" /><img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/pg/upload/2015/03/08/20150308145758-de260cf7.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="679" />

     

     

     

     

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    QSS-32_33

     

     

     

     

     

  2. <p>They are all worth buying depending on how much you're looking to spend and will all work with your M42's... If it were me, I'd go with a K-5... No reason to go earlier than that unless you're looking for a rock bottom dollar price... K-5 is what I'm using, and will be continue to use until the next release.</p>
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    <p >@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=282122">Q.G</a>, I might be getting higher res scans from the lab with the MF roll.. The 1791x1188 jpegs are what I got from them with 35mm. I will just order their scans with the first roll at least for learning purposes. If I can't come up with a scanning workflow that I am happy with from this first roll, I will pick a different lab for sure. I <a href="http://www.dpug.org/forums/f6/epson-perfection-scanners-quick-tuning-tip-3279/">read</a> about a way I can find out the best focus distance for my scanner and then I will figure out a way to suspend my negs.. I read that <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/The-clothespin-hack,-how-to-scan-photographic-film/">clothespins</a> can even work... ;-)<br>

    That's a nice scan you got from 35mm Tim!<br>

    <br />Thanks John for the tip about DPI with the 4870. I've been always using 4800 trying to get the best I can with my 35mm shots but I will definitely try 2400 and compare. </p>

     

     

  4. <p>I don't know why I said I got 6MB scans back from the lab with my 35mm rolls. I just checked and they're just 1791x1188 jpegs averaging about 1.5MB.... They also look a lot better than I remembered from the last time. I think it was just because I was comparing them to the large tif scans I did... I think I'll just pay for their scans for now and then only scan myself ones that I want to print, if I want to print them large... I'm guessing their scans will be 1188x1188 which means I could only print those at around 5x5, right?</p>
  5. <p>There are a few from this roll I will want to print if they turn out as I want them to... It's expired film though so I won't know until I see them. If I do print, how big will depend on how nice the images are. I don't imagine it'd be bigger than 8x10... Inititially I'm just scanning to view them on screens and to practice dealing with my film images.<br>

    Card mount? </p>

  6. <p>It took me two months, but I finally finished shooting my first roll of 120 and will get it developed tomorrow.... <br>

    I'm a mostly digital shooter beginning to dabble in film. So far I've only had a couple rolls of 35mm color neg film developed, using a reputable local lab (Pro Photo Irvine, that uses a Noritsu). I had them scan just so I could compare my scans with theirs... As stated I scanned straight on the glass without the film holders (They must be buried somewhere in my garage but I haven't been able to find them yet...).<br>

    The (porta 400) colors with the lab scans looked better than what I've been able to achieve with my scans, but their scans (I am guessing because they are at only 6MB resolution, and/or their settings) had a kind of noise reduction/pasty quality (especially at 100% viewing) that I wasn't too fond of... In that regard I actually prefer my scans...<br>

    So now I am debating whether to pay the lab the extra $3.50 to scan my 12 shots of 120. I am wondering if that pasty look of their scans with my 35mm will go away with the higher res of the 120? Part of the debate is also that this first roll I shot is actually expired Portra 160 from like 2009 that I got for $2 at a camera show. I went with it knowing that I'd probably blow many of the shots on my first roll (which I did) because I'm learning how to use my Yashica 124G... (My next rolls of new Portra 400 are waiting in the fridge)...<br>

    Either way I will be scanning these shots with my 4870, but for now it has to be straight on the glass until I find my holders...(Or does anybody have a suggestion for a holder other than the $65 holder that betterscanning.com offers?)<br>

    How big a difference would I see scanning the MF negs with the holder compared to what I get with straight on the glass (all else being the same)? If it's a significant difference, I might have to spend the weekend unloading my garage looking for those holders. <br>

    <br />Thanks in advance for any constructive input. ;)</p>

     

  7. <p>Well I was able to handle many MF cameras at the show and it helped me to feel good about starting off with a budget TLR, especially for the size and weight factors. Against sound advice and better judgment I actually bought an AS-IS Yashica 124G at the show for $90. I figured something might be wrong with it for the price, but I couldn't figure out what it was and the guy was playing dumb... It seemed to be in in such good overall condition that I got impulsive and bought it. Of course I later figured out that it had a broken shutter button... Doh! Fortunately I found a reputable local guy to repair it for $68 and get to pick it up tomorrow. Otherwise Mark Hama was ready to bill me $165 to fix it up...</p>
  8. I hear you about TLR's but I keep reading about them being reliable despite their long teeth. And if I ordered one via KEH and it wasn't immediately usable without a CLA I could return it.

     

    The one thing that does still have me hesitating a bit about TLR is focusing. I've been struggling a bit with my manual focusing abilities with my 35mm SLR gear and am concerned that it will be rough going for me with the WLF as I've read some people reporting that struggle. I am pretty it's just me not being careful enough coming from DSLR... Nevertheless this is maybe one aspect where the show might help me to get a feel for what might work best for me if I can get my hands on some of these cameras.

     

    I appreciate the vote for 645 but I didn't mention in my previous post that I don't want to go 645 because I want the 6x6 negs... Plus if I was going to go 645 I'd want the newer body like 645N or 645NII and that would be a more substantial investment.

     

    Thanks for the input guys. I will definitely keep reading. ;)

  9. @ C Watson - An old TLR because I am being lured by the generally positive reviews I've read about them, with their usability, durability, functionality, simplicity, and the (at least theoretically and most significantly for me) relatively low cost of this as a first MF camera. My thought is that I can get in for a couple hundred-ish and initially be spending what I didn't spend on gear on more film and processing. I've been slowly researching this stuff for months and Bronica SQA was the plan for quite a while and is still in second place, but getting that whole kit together is enough more of an investment that I keep gravitating back to the old TLR route, thinking I should start with it and then sometime next year probably add the SQA setup. (Kiev88cm is also in strong contention with SQA, despite all the possible pitfalls and the loud thwacking shutters.. I just love results I see with Zeiss glass. It is often associated with the images that wow me the most. But going Kiev takes me away from being able to shop KEH, which is another reason why I might go with old TLR to start, so I can take my time piecing together the Hasselbladski setup..Bronica is close enough though so I may spare myself the Bladski headache.. Rolleiflex looks like a real nice route to me too... Pentax too since I am a Pentax D/SLR shooter after all... so many choices... I might just need eventually buy them all lol)
  10. Cool. Sounds like KEH will be the way to go and the camera show will just be for education.. I would be able to spot glass and oily blade and fungus issues but that's about it.. I still wonder if maybe I'll get lucky though.. A good enough bargain on something and maybe an additional CLA could be the way to go?

     

    The one issue I have with KEH (from the looks of it as I've not purchased from them before) is that the items for sale don't offer much info and it doesn't seem possible to contact anybody with questions...

  11. I am a DSLR (and some 35mm SLR) shooter ready to begin dabbling in MF and have distilled my plan down to getting

    into it as inexpensively as possible to start and then expanding later. This has me thinking at the moment that a YashicaMat

    TLR is probably the best option and presumably I will get one from KEH.

     

    The only thing that has me holding out now (aside from it being the holidays and having five kids to play Santa

    for) is the question mark about a local camera show here in Southern California that I recently found out about

    (while perusing craigslist)... http://bargaincamerashows.com/

     

    The next show I can make is on Dec22 so I figure I'll wait until after that to pull the trigger either way. I am

    of course interested to get my hands on some of these MF kits, assuming there will be some there... It's just

    that having never gone to one of these shows I am wondering if it's a place to expect that I might stumble across

    a deal that's too good to refuse.. Or that might not be the case at all and everything will be overpriced...

    Anybody have experience with these kind of markets?

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    <p >Nice work all. Took some shots of the moon on Saturday with everyone else. These all have two shots blended (obviously).. Just for the fun of it... I am still trying to figure out how to enlarge/scale the correctly exposed moon layer in gimp to fill the larger circle of the longer exposed moon to make it look a little more realistic... :-)</p>

    <p >I had a real learning curve out there trying to get my k100d+tamron 70-300ld stable on top of my cheapo tripod stretched up all the way and spot metering out in the wind lol...</p>

    <p ><img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/g3/var/resizes/Share/IMGP3398GRS.JPG?m=1336451289" alt="" width="800" height="468" /></p>

    <p ><img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/g3/var/resizes/Share/IMGP3450GRS.JPG?m=1336454409" alt="" width="800" height="552" /></p>

    <p ><img src="http://www.tmphillips.com/g3/var/resizes/Share/IMGP3466GRS.JPG?m=1336504618" alt="" width="800" height="598" /></p>

  13. <p>Nice photos everyone! Henk #2, Duane #2 and Nick #2 and outstanding... I haven't been able to scratch my photo itch much lately but here is one from last nights walk in the neighborhood.. Almost had a nice shot of two Doberman pinchers barking at my wife and I, but it came out blurry (because they scrared the crap out of me)</p><div>00aIkQ-460037584.JPG.2bbecb500e939615dfd4bb7c9262d186.JPG</div>
  14. <p>good stuff everyone! faves go to Steve and Matt... my shot is just a sunset from the back yard.. a 3 shot exposure blend using a gimp script..</p><div>00aHNv-458643584.JPG.f3b1bae34093f0b4ecfc26049ea46704.JPG</div>
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