caesar_augustus

You under - exposed your film by five stops. now you need to give it a whole lot of extra development.

If these are, "priceless images," who cares what you shoot the rest of the roll at. It is the images you already took that need salvaging.

 

but if you insist on an answer, set your ISO at 1000 for the rest of the roll.

Don't worry about it buddy; this is what you do. You take your developer, whatever it may be, and develop at its strongest dilution for 30 minutes.

 

I don't know which developers you're using but here is a couple of examples:

 

D-76 1:0 (stock) at 30 minutes

Rodinal 1:25 at 30 minutes.

 

You get the picture; the strongest dilution at 30 minutes.

 

And develop at 75 degrees F., with aggressive agitation. (like 30 seconds a minute.)

 

 

If that doesn't produce images, from 125iso film EI at 1600, I don't know what will.

Brooks rep went downhill hardcore after they were sold and bought

There is one famous photographer who shot in Minnesota. He shot one photo a day for X number of days cause he was bored with his life of something (Rich people and their problems.) You should find out who he is and what he shot.

Don't get a BFA or BA in Photography. Get a B.S. in commercial Photography. That actually teaches you the real world side and the business of photography.

 

Fine Art students graduate school and get to post their work in museums, then they eat at the soup kitchen, or get food by going to the food bank on their way to get home to smoke dope.

 

Commercial photography students graduate school and start a business and own houses and cars and actually make a living.

Digital isn't nearly as good as film. I know because I shoot both. The problem isn't just resolution it is other things.

 

I shoot 6x4.5 and digital, 10.1 MP. Digital does bad stuff film never does, like a thin layer of color you can't get rid of. I have never seen film do that.

I have used Rollei Pan 25 before. The emulsion was blue. I did not like that. I did not use Rollei Pan 25 again. I use Efke 25iso instead.

Ekfe and other sensitive emulsion films do call for hardener in their film tech/data sheets.

 

This is the way I view it: Hardener is used absolutely last, in the last fixer treatment, after you tone for the final time.

 

For film: selenium toner makes film denser. This is because it is applying a layer of selenium metal over the layer of already exposed silver halide metal.

 

What you do is this: use a non-hardening fixer > Rinse > HypoClear > Rinse > Selenium Toner > Rinse > Hardening Fixer > Rinse > HypoClear > Rinse.

 

The last Fixing step, "hardens," the selenium and silver together.

If you use a Hardening Fixer before Selenium Toning, it has a hard time toning at all.

 

Now you may get an argument that this totally goes against the idea of reducing wet times but that is another ball of wax.

 

With Paper it is the same process. Selenium Toner and fixer don't like to come in contact with eachother that is why it is important to hypoclear between the two chemicals.

oh fuji, gothca, thank you

Thanks John

thats a lot of grain. I bet scanning increased it

 

I like it

Alan I know about the Zone System.

 

And shooting at 400iso isn't placing subjects in zone V because it isn't a true 400iso

you can send it to my house, it will only cost me about $0.30 but I'll be sure to charge you $30 if it makes you feel better.

 

Why don't you just get a tank, fixer, and film developer and do it yourself. You'd do better than a prolab cause you know how you shot the film, like whether in bright sunlight or open shade, whereas the prolab will just use a universal setting

oh and I want to make 11x14 prints on FB paper

I want to try pulling Delta 400iso to 200iso.

 

I know this will make a finer grain print but will the rest of the image suffer

in an effort to make it a finer grain? Is there a way to pull it to 200 and

make it contrasty all at the same time?

 

I am shooting 6x4.5 and using, currently, rodinal. The Ilford techsheet gives a

time for delta 400 pulled to 200, but I normally already pull 400 speed film to

320 or sometimes even 250. The developing time goes from 9 minutes to 6 minutes

when pulling it a stop, but really I would only be pulling it 1/3rd of a stop

but hacking off 3 entire minutes of developing time, doesn't seem right.

 

Should I set the ISO meter on the camera 160 or 125 and use the 200EI develoment

time ?

Is Tmax film and Tmax developer superior combination?

What I don't understand is: how are you supposed to get exposure previews with field and view cameras?

Jasmine Clark says she likes grainy film, and then says she uses Adox and Efke films which are anything but grainy.

I find color photography distracting so that is why I shoot B&W.

Tanks come in 3 capacities: 300mm, 600mm, and 900mm. You always fill to capacity.

I shoot B&W because I find color distracting

people here are going to encourage you not to get into business because it will mean more competition for them. All their replies will be bias and subjective and designed to make you feel that you will never succeed.

This doesn't sound like a film and developing question

Kodak B&W 400CN is the worst film I have ever used in my life.

 

Kodak B&W 400CN is not a, "traditional," black and white film. This is because it uses dyes rather than silver halide.

 

If you must use a c-41 film, for whatever reason, I'd suggest Ilford's XP2 because it doesn't have that brown layer like the kodak's B&W 400CN.